Dieselfuture

They must of made way too many hx35 with different wheels. Both of mine were 58, unless someone messed with them before me. I'm still thinking about a turbo, but at this point leaning towards k27. I usually cruse at 18-2000 RPM so I definitely don't want a turbo that starts spooling at that. And can't find too much info on people that use it, seems like everyone wants a rocket. I don't want to rebuild my engine every 50k or change head gaskets. Would like to see at least 300k without taking any major components off after this head goes on. And having a smaller turbo with good control over egts will keep the head from cracking and overall stress on the truck. I'm just hoping to see a good 100hp gain out of it then I'll be happy.

Here is some more info on k27 The K27 turbocharger is capable of supporting diesel trucks up to 450HP. Featuring a 58/83.7mm Forged Milled Wheel (FMW). The 7/7-blade compressor is made to resist low- and high-cycle fatigue. The 70/58.83mm 12 blade Inconel turbine is a made for quick-response. The turbine wastegate housing is a twin-volute, and an adjustable wastegate actuator is preset at 26 PSI (325hp), which is safe up to 40PSI (450hp) with a Power Driven Diesel Turbo Tuner. Like the Holset, the oil inlet is a threaded M12 and oil drain is threaded M8.

Thanks dripley, I've been In a few fast cars and generally most of them were a money pit, I had a few myself. Luckily got married and had kids, otherwise I'd still blow all of the money on toys. Life I got now keeps me in check, and I still get to go fishing/hunting and work on a truck thats a race car/work horse/fun to drive. And now to my surprise wife said ok to a turbo after spending money on the head, I'm a happy camper. We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Alright talked my better half in a new turbo. I'm realy thinking about getting k27 for my set up. I loved driving it before, so I think with 400 hp and maybe 800 flb of torque is all I'd ever want. I like reliable and efficient truck, although that hasn't been the case yet but hopefully will one day. If I can have that power and egts in check and it should work with my 75hp injectors and my exhaust break that I like. I don't see any other turbos that's a direct bolt on to what I got and having a safe 400hp. I'm realy passed the point of spending money just to feel like I'm in a drag car, it just doesn't stop going that route. Plus I guess just incase if I ever decided to have more power they sell a twin kit that uses k27 as primary and makes a great towing set up. But I think if I gain another 100 hp with what I'm trying to do I'll be more then happy. I think some of you feel me, there is always going to be someone faster stronger etc. I just hope the few reviews I found on k27 is real deal, people seemed to be happy. I wish there was someone on this site that has expirience with one, o well I'll be the guinea pig. Unless there is a strong opinions against what I'm trying to do. Please let me know. Got the head and it's looking pretty in red. Pulled few valve out jus to see and it looks nice. Guides look like brass, he said they were brass coated, and it looks like they have small groves in them to mabe keep oil. Valves look great too, nice surface contact line.

There she is, still warm. 6 thousands off new guides, valve job. Had them check springs, they are all 60# Where does this copper washer go, it was in a same bag with seals

I know at least @dripley is aware of this rock solid bushing but last I heard he has one just hasn't had time to put it in. I thought in dodge world everyone has one installed by now, but you all to busy making 1000 hp.

So basically it's identical to @Mopar1973Man hybrid aside from I belive his is 60/60/12 be interesting to know all numbers, Mike also mentioned that it's more laggy but sounds like he's running stock injectors at its time. Really makes me wonder why my exhaust turbine measures 58 and the one I just tore appart also 58 and it should be in hy35 That's why dap said k27 is better for Towing to keep egts and drive pressure down, and shouldn't affect spool because it's a whole different design of a turbo

Got another question about turbo. Here is a description from daps website. (Borg Warner K27 replacement for the Holset HX35W turbocharger.The K27 is capable of supporting up to 400HP. It features a 60/83.7mm Forged Milled Wheel (FMW) 7/7-blade design compressor to resist low- and high-cycle fatigue. The turbine is a quick-response, 70/58.83mm 12 blade advanced design cast in Inconel and provides great backpressure control. The turbine housing is a twin-volute, single-valve wastegate housing with 18.2cm2 nozzle area and an adjustable wastegate actuator that is preset at 1.8bar. The oil Inlet is threaded M12 and the oil drain is threaded M8, just like the Holset. ) Would you call it a 60/58.8/18.2 or 60/70/18.2 I sent it called both ways, thought it was inducer/exducer/exhaust housing cm2

And here is a brand new turbo that has 2 places for a waste gate to mount and yes this waste gate is like new and hopefully will work just fine, might have to adjust boost elbow. And you can see head studs all cleaned up and in order that they came out. Also my water pump was getting lose so I got a gates one along with a thermostat and radiator cap. And kids love blue bunny, I get the empty ones. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com I bought it directly from him http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com

That's my new valve springs I'm putting in, going to be running a huge cam, lol sorry couldn't help. I thought everyone was aware of this steering mod, gets rid of tiny little bearing in steering column and you get a nice poly bushing instead, supposed to help with lose steering and clunking on column.

Took the opportunity of head being off and did my rock solid bushing for steering, it was still not super easy and probably can be done without removing steering column but I feel bad for that guy. Anyway it's nice and tite just how I like it. Hopefully clunk will go away now. I'll let you all know.

Yeah it sure sucks I had my hopes up, would of been good for a while till I made-up my mind on different set up

Both of these turbso had identical turbines, unless I measured it wrong And they both said hx35w on them

Probably just a bad line then going to the axle

Torch wood come in Handy

Why not just airbags

Just sucks unloading it from the truck. I just did some landscape round the house ended up getting 5 tons wasn't enough then got three more had it delivered both times, but wife is working now so we could afford it. I always wanted to put a hydraulic tilt on my bed but never had a good reason to, just don't hole too much stuff that needs to be dumped anymore. Axle rating on M80 is 11000 pounds

Is there a chance to plug it in backwards, if you got the vacuum to the switch then whatever controls it would be the next step

K27 would be a direct bolt on for me, that's why I'm so considering. I just wish it was slightly bigger like 62/65/14 or something. They advertising it as 60/58.83/18.2 the one on my truck I just measured it's 54/58/12 and yesterday I got one for 50 bucks hoping i could rebuild it, but both exhaust and compressor wheel were shot, so I was hoping to use a bearing housing and where oil seal goes in was shot because exhaust wheel milled it out, but at least I was able to use exhaust housing since mine was horribly rusty and it worked I hope, now I got a waste gate mount on compressor housing (currently using ) and this other housing I put on has a mount on it too. It went together weel, so at least I have a turbo. Changing bearings didn't tighten it up much more my other ones were still good I think, kept them as spears. Worst thing is this core turbo I just got has 58/84 compressor wheel ( mine is 54/78 )that I could of used but it's shot and bearing housing for it shot too, I was still able to use few other things so it was not a complete waste. And I'll have a working wastegate. Junk turbo only used exhaust housing and stainless half moon clamps This is how I pried both of them apart, just used 2 bolts opposite from each other and back them out quarter-turn at a time and drove them quarter inch steel plates with a hammer between flat surface and bolt, they both came appart. Housing on the left I hoped to use

Do you have vacuum at fire wall? Where it splits

I'm thinking to go through my hx35 for now and do more research. Is s300 usable with my exhaust brake? If not I was even considering s36something or super B and get rid of EB. but not sure if 75hp injectors will be enough for a bigger turbo. In mean time I'll try to find a used k27 for half the price or better, then I might do it, you right 1000 bucks is too much for little gain. If my turbo was blown to pieces and I had to by a new one and had a choise hx35 or k27 I'd go with k27 but at its point I'm lost a bit.

That's going to crack all the way around aventualy, had that happen. I'd say mufler tape or cut it out and replace a pice. There is a little bit of room to put that clamp from fernco on, and usually they are ss.

I like my 5" with straight through mufler, but to patch yours up use something like thathttps://www.walmart.com/ip/Proflex-Shielded-Coupling-3-In.-No-Hub-Cast-Iron-To-3-In.-Copper-110621/152213470?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1122&adid=22222222228048179231&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=146917152386&wl4=pla-261094429132&wl5=9018656&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=101593696&wl11=online&wl12=152213470&wl13=&veh=sem They come in different sizes and just spread some hi temp RTV inside before clamping it on. I wouldn't weld it you'll keep burning through, brazing might work

I would guess something like that would be the same. But not positive. I ended up getting posi lock for mine, so far it worked good.

Ok done, not bad at all with no head and at one point I was thinking, man someday I'll be changing that gasket, instead ended up taking head off lol. As for other grommets, they are too big and thick nothing would of fit back, so that answers that. And as for cross hatching ,it's still there just not as good as I want it to be. Definitely not rebuilding it now. This thing better last few hundred thousand miles yet. I'm kinda jealous of some members here having over 300k and not doing anything to internals yet. Now doing fuel return T and to a surprise oring were not as bad as I expected, probably would of gone much longer but what's another 35 bucks at this point and not the easiest job to do when everything is put back together.