Dieselfuture

@trreed nothing but super tech 2 cycle, I did use some injector cleaner once just because, but it's been at least 10k ago.

Almost got the head off hopefully I get enough time to do it today. Got everything off but rocker arms and push rods. Looking at the studs they are all flush with the nuts, after some research I'm starting to belive they are A1 H11 will know more when I pull them out Question, 1 how important is it to take rockers off with valves closed so there is no tention on them. Should I go through firing order to take em off or just take em off. I've just taking rockers off on other motors before. When putting them on I usually go through firing order. 2 some of retantion bands/clips that hold exhaust bolts from backing up were pretty rusty and broke, do you even put them back on or is it for extreme heat cycles application, when working the motor hard. Also I'm developing a tiny crack in manifold, how long do I got till its junk. Taking rockers off and noticed the bridge that connects 2 valves has a small bump on one side, does it matter which way they face, they all seem to be random. And here is a stud that was leaking, came out with nut guessing RTV held the nut on. I think it was silver at one time and got discolored. Here is an injector 60hp from dap after about 15k, not sure if normal. I think that's what they look like when used. Here is a stud from inside, looks much better

That's why I had to make sure my return lines were returning all the way to the bottom of basket, maybe 1/4 inch of bottom. Otherwise if it's few inches above it creates foam if tank gets low. If return lines are submerged in fuel it should not create air angles you're sucking it somewhere in system.

No in and out but side to side is about 10-12 thousands if I had to guess. And on the exhaust housing I'm thinking about getting one with no waste gate that is 14cm, not sure how laggy it will be but should keep egts down. Trying to decide 60 or 62, 12 or 14, and I think I found a turbine that is bigger and supposed to fit in that housing. http://m.ebay.com/itm/111577452460 but it's 10 blade instead of 12. Slower spool maybe but much bigger, not sure if it fits in housing. @Silverdodge do you remember exactly what went in your turbo and where you got parts from, or you send it out someplace.

Thanks for refreshing my memory on difference, I was trying to serch your old post where you guys were talking about all them sizes. So I got few options, 1. leave this turbo alone till I get more parts or find one I need. 2. buy compressor housing with the wheel and try to use my turbo for the rest. 3. BORG WARNER K27 just found out as an option, sounds like exhaust brake can still be used with band clamp. Just wiggled the shaft in mine and it is getting a bit lose, but will probably last a while longer. Is the drive pressure reduced with the hybrid, I'm guessing yes as it still runs same psi range but more volume.

So is it bigger than hx35 then? And exhaust wheel same or same dimensions but not interchangeable. My brain is starting to hurt.

Does anyone know if wh1c has same bearing housing as hx35 or is anything same on them like exhaust turbine with shaft, I see that is a band clamp and not a snap ring so it may be different all together, trying to find bits and pieces to get something working. I could buy compressor housing with a new wheel and turbine housing that will except my exhaust brake, not sure if my bearing housing will be usable I found one on ebay and guy says he can machine it for whatever, I just don't know what that is yet. He says he can put a grove in it to except an oring do I need that, and he can machine it to fit different size compressor wheels. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX40-HX35-Bearing-Housing/111587767332?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 This is what looking at on Craigslist https://quadcities.craigslist.org/pts/6192153437.html It looks like it's same but different, not sure if I can use any parts of it

Thanks for giving me that link, I called them up and they have everything I need to make it work but like you guys already said I might be money ahead finding one on Craigslist. The only problem is time, when will I ever find what I'm looking for. I will marinate that one for few days. So of course I have few questions about turbo again. They recommended ch11 intake housing that comes with 62 inducer 86 exducer and th03 exhaust housing non wastegated 14cm it's listed as(long) and same length as what I got to be able use the exhaust brake. Instead of bolting on back plate with 5 holes it has a 3" flange machined on it so I can just use ss clamp. Waste gate is not a huge deal to me as mine hasn't worked in years and now that Nick got the quad to defuel good I'll just use that at 35psi. What does the second number mean when people say I have a 63/68/12

Ideally I need a new or newer housing that is machined for hx40 turbine to make it a hibryd, isn't it how a hibryd is made? @Mopar1973Man that turbo you got from one of the guys on this site ended up being a hibryd. Did it look like hx35 and the only thing was the exhaust turbine was different size then your old one? I'm guessing exhaust housing was machined to fit bigger wheel.

I'm not too worried about disassembling it I'm worried about assembling a back and if rust is all that's holding it together I probably should let it be, it still works fine. And like you guys said start looking for a different one.

What do you guys think on the turbo I got

Well drove the truck a little harder yesterday just for fun since head is coming off anyway. Noticed reserve tank for coolant is low, so I put 2 Barsleak tablets in added coolant and drove it again, oil started to leak much quicker when it got up to temperature. Somehow there is a connection there where coolant is effecting oil leak. But oil and coolant do not mix. So I decided not to wait any longer and taking chances on getting stranded somewhere and started to take things off. So far only turbo came off an it's pretty rusty and swelled up where exhaust housing bolts up, not sure if there is enough beef left to put it back together. Also I could not find any markings on the studs or nuts that say ARP, do they or did they ever made any that were not identified. If not what the ... do I have ... Unless they are A1 H11

Gottcha on the seals, was thinking doing them anyways just want to get more input on longevity of them. Even on gas motors they seem to last close to 300k anymore. Wasn't worried about draining radiator had it out twice already. I was asking about the block. Didn't know if there is a screw in plug on the bottom of the block someplace so when I pop the head coolant didn't get in cylinders. But I think no matter what it will still get in there, I'll just shove some gags in there.

Is there a drain plug on the block someplace to drain antifreeze so it doesn't get into cilynders, or taking lower radiator hose will do it. How long do valve seals usually last on these motors, would be easy to change while head is off but if they'll go another 150k I'm not messing with them, lots of things can happen between now and then. I think @Mopar1973Man mentioned something about his getting week and at 300k that's not bad. I have 150k on mine and no signs of blue smoke on start up. I will pull few random valves out to check guides for looseness. @TFaoro @jlbayes did you put new guides in, I was told pull valve out and put finger over guide if creates vacuume good if like hot dog in a hallway bad, any truth to that.

I'll take a look when I get home, I know the stud doesn't not sure on the nut. Nuts almost look a bit purple in color.

They are tite, the shadow is messing with you. When I first got the truck it seeped oil out of the front stud, so I took the nut off and put RTV in the hole and torqued it down to 150, not knowing correct spec. It's been like that for 6 years now, and finally oil is coming from head gasket. They are tite, the shadow is messing with you. When I first got the truck it seeped oil out of the front stud, so I took the nut off and put RTV in the hole and torqued it down to 150, not knowing correct spec. It's been like that for 6 years now, and finally oil is coming from head gasket. @trreed they sure do look silver, unless some knock off

@Mopar1973Man was this the rebuild kit you recently used https://dieselautopower.com/holset-genuine-hx35-rebuild-kit-3575169/ @jlbayes you probably right on75/25 but I don't have a lot of choice, sure not going to spend 1500 to rebuild a head. Probably will just surface it and put it back on, I will relap the valves and put new seals on myself if needed. Might even do a little porting just for fun, nothing crazy just to clean it up. Also heard you mention in a different post, friend of yours has a good place for a hybrid Turbo, could you remind me where that is, please. I really like having my exhaust brake and I think hybrid is about the only way I'm going to gain with what I got. I cleaned top of the stud and it looks silver to me, what are the chances someone spend some serious bucks on this truck before, like maybe an oringed head too? And then when they sold it put old injectors and turbo in. Just guessing at this point, but here is a picture of a stud right behind tstat housing

@Mopar1973Man was this the rebuild kit you recently used https://dieselautopower.com/holset-genuine-hx35-rebuild-kit-3575169/ @jlbayes you probably right on75/25 but I don't have a lot of choice, sure not going to spend 1500 to rebuild a head. Probably will just surface it and put it back on, I will relap the valves and put new seals on myself if needed. Might even do a little porting just for fun, nothing crazy just to clean it up. Also heard you mention in a different post, friend of yours has a good place for a hybrid Turbo, could you remind me where that is, please. I really like having my exhaust brake and I think hybrid is about the only way I'm going to gain with what I got.

Guy told me new bare head is 700 plus all the work on it will be around 2k, I see what you mean a new assembled head from cummins might be cheaper then rebuilding this one. I'm probably going to pull it off and pull a valve or two out and see how the guides are, if everything looks ok I'll probably just take a chance on surfacing it. Might not even do valve seals, all I got is oil leaking from front and it's not even that bad, just don't want to have it blow out on the road. I know not the greatest choice but money is tight and I've spent too much on it already. So...we'llsee how it goes. How bad was your head when you did it, did it need all the new guides and valve job? @TFaoro Maybe some RTV will take careof it.

Oh boy, just got off the phone with machine shop and got a quote of $1500 bucks to go through the head. They said more than likely vale guides need redone and by that time might as well do valve job assuming head isn't cracked. He says 50/50 chance on cracked head. To resurface and clean about $280 out the door, if valves don't have to come out which I don't think they do. So here I am stock on deciding do I take a chance ( which I probably will) or do I do it right the first time. But in my mind to do it right I need to deck the block too and might as well go through the motor. It runs good, starts right up so I need some intellectual advice. Taging a few of you that I know delt with this, thanks for the help. @Mopar1973Man @jlbayes @TFaoro How are we supposed to get a million miles again, is it like having a hammer in a family for 3 generations that only had 5 handles and 2 heads replaced, but still a same hammer.

How do you deal with back pushrods, I think they might be too long to come out of top.

True, I'm just a bit anal about it and like to get right things ahead of time, although I done that before and still have unused parts laying around. How's Victor rienz compare to cummins, I used it on other motors and local rebuilder likes their prodact too. But for 60 more bucks I don't mind getting cummins stuff. Can one guy get the head off or does it take two, what's it waight anyway looks heavy. Getting exited here. Probably going to tear in to in next week. Still need to use the truck this coming weekend.

What do you do with injector hold downs, considering people say not to mess with back bolts and just lose fronts. I'll be taking naked head to machine shop ( just valves left in ) , how do I get them back In right place when ready to put injectors in. @TFaoro @jlbayes Would this be what I need? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gasket-4090035/gaskets-and-seals Thank you, I hate not having parts when resembling.

What do you do with injector hold downs, considering people say not to mess with back bolts and just lose fronts. I'll be taking naked head to machine shop ( just valves left in ) , how do I get them back In right place when ready to put injectors in. @TFaoro @jlbayes

I got an old farm truck few years back for $2500 just needed to wire up shutoff cilinoid to get it started, it was pretty rusty, but drive train was solid, 5 spd 4.10 4x4 215hp, I should of never sold it. So 3k for a body is way too much. Not saying there are a lot of deals out there but 3k in my mind is getting bent over.