Dieselfuture

I wouldn't do it like that, oil won't flow as good being so far back, it's gears flinging it in a hole and gravity drain. Plus sticking a mile out may not have room. Just use fast coolers on both sides and filter inside a passenger side. I have an extra filter that came with QK, when I get it out I might put it on tcase and get a filter for fast and go that way.

I'm going to change my vp relay just in case then before I forget about this issue !!!

Yes I have one fast cooler and one QK, I don't think nv45 needs extra fluid like the 56, but running one extra qt isn't going to hurt it, make sure all your vent are free of dirt. QK is not made to go inside fast, it is its own thing.

I don't know if you will benefit from both, I belive the reason you put it on passenger side is oil gets in there easier. I have QK1000 on my truck, didn't know fast coolers offered a filter, otherwise I would of went with it instead of QK, as you get 2 coolers, one can have a filter. QK is better suited for tighter places imo. key thing is not to overfill oil too much, so it can still drain out of filter, mine is 1/2" below fill hole of filter and roughly 2.5 qts over filed. So I got fast cooler on driver side and QK on passenger and have close to 8qts of oil in nv5600. can't wait to pull filter off sometime this summer and see just how much it trapped.

I would buy new ones, I've rebuilt a few motors and freshen a few up, on rare occasions I've reused lifters, most of the time I put a new set of lifters even with an old cam. You actually extend the life of the cam by putting new lifters on every so often, may not be true in all cases. If you put a straight edge on the lifter surface it's dome-shaped, as lifter wears it becomes concave shaped. Cam is also grounded a certain way so it zigzag back and forth and makes lifter spin so it wears even. A way to tell if you eating your cam or lifter away, is if you're constantly adjusting your valves. Make sure you run oil with high zddp first 5 hundred to a 1000ml miles to get things broken in.

@JAG1 yes, I wonder if we're moving some internal pieces beyond their working standard, or if they were used to being in one spot for so long and now we're forcing it out of its bounds. Picture a piston with rings in a cylinder that went up and down for 200k and then we will start moving it past that point..... or something like that.

I can't help but think all these vp44 failures at same time as testing V2 stuff. Not really wanted to make a connection just saying, plus I'm kind of hooked on this new V2, hopefully there is no connection.

You also need to make sure you get backing plates sometimes they come with mirrors.

Got any links so we can see what you're doing

And just to clarify, on vp trucks it's not necessary to upgrade valve spring like with the 12 valves? At least that's what I was told.

I think I'll just lay off my Racing tune for a while, maybe if I ever figure out which turbo I want to go with. Plus I don't want to change my hx35 just because, it still works great. When time comes to rebuilding it, I'll see what I have and if it's just a regular hx35 I'll look into hybrid or other. I was just mainly wondering if it was even possible to hit 50 psi with an hx35.

I'll take few pictures when I can, I'm not by the truck now, and it may be few days, but it says right on it hx35w, my guess is luck was on my side. It has a waste gate and it's been stock shut for about 4 years now. I freed it up when I was putting exhaust break on, but after a month or so it quit working again. So I've been trying to stay below 40, and most of time try not to go over 30. But this run was wot with can bus maxed out and wire tap at 2000. Boost shut up so fast past 40, I was like , had it flored in each gear for about 3 seconds. Starting in 2nd. Fuel pressure dropped to 16 from 18-19, usually I only see 1psi swing.

My iss pro mechanical gauge also showed close to 50, i ether have a hybrid or I got lucky and it didn't blow up.

Does anyone think 50 psi is normal to see with an hx35w, or is it about to blow up at that psi.

Makes perfect sense with all the satellites we got up there, here we go....

Had some time this weekend to play with a racing tune. Over all it worked well I though, some to minimal smoke and good power. Although I had my Boost defuel set at 37psi and EGT at 1300, data logging said I was at 49psi and 1500 egt. I may reduce it to 32 and 1100 and see how it defuels. Not sure how my HX35W is pushing 50psi of boost and making power, I though they were good to maybe 35-40psi. Maybe PO turned it to a hybrid I’m running 60hp SAC injectors. I’m sure there is tweaking that can be done to make it better, but you can definitely tell the difference between daily drive tune and economy tune.Take notice of (Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 8 PSI vs BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS) Also below ill post a Towing tune that I think may work for my application see what you guy’s think and if I should adjust any of it. Or any of theses tunes for that matter, Thanks. I was on level 6 for race tune, Towing tune I will probably stay at level 3 for most part, but will try level 6 also. Race Tune TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 6 RPM Limit: 3400 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 15% PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 2000 microseconds TPS Pump Maximum: 80% TPS Pump Minimum: 10% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 20% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 8 PSI Boost Scaling: 30 PSI TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 4* Timing Reduct Scaling: 80% Light Throttle Timing Adv: 3 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 16.5 2000 RPM: 19 2500 RPM: 22 3000 RPM: 24 Max: 25 BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS 0 PSI:105 1 PSI:107 2 PSI:109 3 PSI:111 4 PSI:114 5 PSI:116 6 PSI:118 7 PSI:121 8 PSI:122 9 PSI:123 10 PSI:124 11 PSI:127 12 PSI:130 13 PSI:135 14 PSI:139 15 PSI:143 16 PSI:150 18 PSI:150 20 PSI:150 22 PSI:150 24 PSI:150 26 PSI:150 28 PSI:150 30 PSI:150 Tow Tune TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 6 RPM Limit: 3200 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 15% PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1400 microseconds TPS Pump Maximum: 100% TPS Pump Minimum: 20% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 5% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 12 PSI Boost Scaling: 40 PSI TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3* Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Light Throttle Timing Adv: 3 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 16 2000 RPM: 18 2500 RPM: 20 3000 RPM: 22 Max: 24 BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS 0 PSI:104 1 PSI:106 2 PSI:108 3 PSI:110 4 PSI:112 5 PSI:114 6 PSI:116 7 PSI:119 8 PSI:121 9 PSI:123 10 PSI:126 11 PSI:128 12 PSI:130 13 PSI:133 14 PSI:135 15 PSI:138 16 PSI:140 18 PSI:146 20 PSI:150 22 PSI:150 24 PSI:150 26 PSI:150 28 PSI:150 30 PSI:150

I agree, Yes it will block it out, Wrap your cell phone in tin foil and try calling it.

Global warming is like bogie man I'm guessing dinosaurs farted too much and wiped themselves out

At least you got to drive the Frankenstein

@jlbayes how would s300g or 62/65/12 compare to hybrid, I'm also interested in this subject but would love to keep my exhaust break that is bolted to the back of hx35.actually BD EB came with a flange that bolted to hx35, but I think most of them do unless it's an inline one.

Man I wish I knew what you're talking about. .....All that automatic stuff, for some reason I always liked shifting gears. Maybe when I get older I'll change my mind. Definitely happy this quadzilla thing is working out for a lot of people, now that we're getting a hang of it, not sure how we did it before.

I had few older np205,203,200 apart and if memory serves me well, in that case it was ether ring maybe called clutch, with worn teef, fork bent or badly worn, sometimes has plastic clips that wear out, keeping it from fully engaging, or gear itself has wore out teef, from grinding when shifting. I haven't looked to close at newer ones, sorry. Hopefully it's something simple, but sounds like internal issue. Just a note out of all the np t cases I went through, very few needed hardly anything but seals, and a bearing sometimes. And we abused the crap out of them with high RPM and huge tires, with minimal damage. I made em all in a tween stick setup, where front and rear was independent from each other, rather simple.

That explains why it was surging more before

I think people from CR form come here to educate them self so they can go back to CR forum and educate other people