Dieselfuture

I got my seal from Sadler power train local heavy duty axle and everything that has gears rebuilder. I believe it was about 20 some bucks, and it was an original Spicer seal. The nut on my axle M80 which is same pumpkin as standard 80 and 70 wheel bearings,I belive, I just marked it and put it back same place maybe 16th passed. There is no crash sleeve and I used 3/4 impact to take it off and put it on. Can't remember if there is a washer but make sure to put it back the way it came out or the nut will not be in same place, also I put a little bit of RTV under the washer.

There is actually a small hole drilled right by that seal, that's how I knew mine was bad, but I think in most cases it gets plugged with dust and doesn't leak or most of it goes to motor. When I took mine apart, hole was partly plugged, and it wasn't dripping on the ground it was just damp on top of the filter housing, got lucky I was under truck an happen to see it.

Lol, I got my old air dog rebuilt and ready to be a back up, but hopefully my new fass 150 will last more than few years. They really need to figure out that little seal that separates motor from pump, then it mill be a long lasting pump. Ether one for that matter. Not sure if I want to drop a tank in middle of nowhere.

Don't get me started on California

Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck, unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it.

That's to adjust caster, some say they need to be maxed out for better ride and steering wheel returning to center etc, but I have to agree with Silver moose, even if you maxed them out should probably do it on alignment machine, just make more sense so things are even. But others claim to just max them out. Must be nice not to have them rusted in place...

You can detune it with v2 and prolong tranny for a while, be money ahead in long run

@WiscoRedkneck adrenaline, v2

You called it

Still need to know your fuel pressure, even new lift pump can be junk. And I agree on loosing prime, air is gettingin somewhere in fuel for it to start hard. If you're planning on keeping the truck I suggest to put a good lift pump like fass and basic gauges, fuel pressure, egt, tranny temp if an auto to begun with. On the injectors if you're going to take them out, just get some rv275 and call it a day until you figure out where to go next with your truck. RVs can always be a back up injectors if you ever go bigger. Definitely check for AC current on the alternator output, causes alot of problems.

Yeah its been this way forever, when I bought it before bumbers or springs or shocks. Noticed it right away but knew it is what it is. I know that my work truck f350 rides better. I'm ok I still like the bitc..

I think after doing it it dropped slightly, then I gave it a slight stretch and it came up to about 19 now it's been settled for a while at 18. Haven't messed with it since.

I'd it this mod to my spring to air dog when I had it and now to fass and it keeps ball from getting jammed in a spring and seems to keep pressure steady

I don't know how you guys tell the difference in how ruff the truck rides, mine rides like a brick unless it's loaded. Original shocks were still good but rusty with 150k, but when changing front Springs I stripped both top front threads, so I cut them off and got bilstin 5100 and they were on sale for 35 a piece I think or even cheaper. They are a single wall thats thicker and have larger piston, so that's my story.

I would suspect injectors

I'm using belstines, got them on line, think amazon was cheapest at time.

I never disconnected my sway bar links when I changed my front Springs, just shoks. But I only went to plow package springs to support my front bumper and a winch. They were not much longer but a bit stiffer.

Looks like they would, I used my original lug nuts. Cone on lug nuts stayed same, threads changed.

@Mopar1973Man just looked wore out more in middle then on outside, but maybe that's from po you got them from. I was just guessing can't tell too well from picture. I know you take care of your stuff. I run about 58 in rear and 60 in front on mine. Went to menards to get some paving stones and forgot to air them up and of course took my air hose out of truck with other stuff to have more room. I got an on board air for few reasons and when I need it Got truck half way loaded and noticed rear tires started to squat, so told my wife don't worry I'll air them up along with air bags, and then realized I'm not too bright. She had a good laugh. I still said f it and put rest of them in, figured out I had about 3500lb in back. Truck rode really nice. Didn't really effected how fast I could get up to speed ether, ended up taking town roads to get home. Tires were a bit wormer but axle was cold.

We used to put wd and random oil on our atvs that way later when we washed them mud came off easier, and not as much would stick to it in a first place.

Looks over inflated on the picture, maybe.

It's not so much the draw straw that will cause cavitation but the return lines if they go to same place. Draw straw if installed wrong will cause sucking air when fuel gets low, but if it's installed in your basket and return fuel also goes to basket you have to make sure return is as low as the draw straw or it will foam fuel that draw straw is trying to suck.

@JAG1 he left his basket alone and his return from head and injectors still return to basket, when unmolested it goes all the way to the bottom. And his ad 150 returns to filler neck. Difference is Mike did it himself right the first time so the straw is at the bottom. I and many others that suffered from 1/4 to 3rd full tank sucking air issue when stopping or taking off quick, ended up modifing fuel basket and not everyone did that one right ether. In my case po did the draw straw install and when I decided to modify basket I realized that my straw was at least an inch from the bottom, so instead of ordering another straw I did the basket upgrade since I had the kit in the garage.

On the cavitation issue you want to make sure your return lines go as deep as possible into the basket. Put some notches at bottom of return pipes, just like Mike did on his draw straw. Tried that on my basket before reinstalling it with lines about 2, 3 inches of the bottom, tested in the five gallon bucket. What I found out is diesel fuel foms a lot, which should have been clear to me after watching it foam when you fill up a 5-gallon can at the pump. See if the cavitation goes away with full tank versus quarter of a tank. Otherwise air is getting entrained one way or the other. Also could just be ball and spring in the return side of fass if you're experiencing pressure swing. As for the flat-earth stuff, there are too many links to list we could start the topic on it elsewhere in the Forum. There are few channels I can recommend to watch, but boy is it time consuming. I don't want to believe that it's a psyop, if it is it's certainly a genius one. Here are some channels to look up. Rob Skiba, Richyfromboston, Eric Dubay, Russianvids, ODDTV, Nicholson1968, Jeranism. I believe these are good Channels, there are more out there, but this will get going a lot of people. Be patient and give it time you will not regret it. Highway to Hell and Stairway to Heaven says a lot on its own.

Well ether way anyone out there has time to waste, check out flat earth, by the end of your journey it won't fell like a waste, in fact it brought many people to true God and Jesus Christ. Plus everyone deserves to know both stories, and it will answer alot of questions. Put you tinfoil hat on, swallow the red pill and go down the rabbit hole. By the time you come out of it in a year or two you'll have a different look on life, hopefully in a better way. I need to warn you there are a lot of disinfo shills out there so you have to chose your info vizely, take what you need and leave the rest. Good luck, if you have half the brain you'll at least give it a shot. Not trying to insult anyone just trying to help. God bless. Sorry for going of topic