Dieselfuture

@NightHawk has your oil just gotten darker over a few day period, I'm a bit confused. If I only put five to seven thousand miles on my truck a year, then I change oil and filters only once a year. Sometimes it sits for a few months and I've never experienced that the oil all the sudden gets dark. Is this because of extra additives you're putting in causing this reaction. Or I misunderstood your post altogether. I do have a bypass filter that the May help with that situation, but not sure if it would be related.

I think for the price I would upgrade to newer stile brakes that are bigger

@Me78569 Gotcha, that makes since now. You updated "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" for something you're working on, and we should update to vehicle year profile as it's been updated to what the "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" used to be or something like that. Would it be safe to stay with "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" that we loaded originally few months ago? Or is there a better reason to upgrade the app.

From what I've researched its that bushing that should cure that problem

@Me78569 I'm confused, when will I be confused more, if I update "V2 Quadzilla-ONLY" or switch to vehicle select profile and update it. And does that mean we'll have to retype all of our settings to a new profile and delete them from old profile.

you may have a lose solder connection on the solenoid

^^^^^^ that's what I got for my truck to fix that bearing, but unfortunately haven't had time to install it yet. So I couldn't tell you if that's going to fix it, I have the same pop.

Make sure you're getting fuel out of all lines at injectors, if it's only few and not all, your vp might be gone.

Keep trying, make sure batterys are staying charged. You can try a tiny shot of starting fluid, just don't over do it. If you're getting fuel to come out of the lines, that means vp is pumping it. You can try to hot wire lift pump just to get it going too.

Man, I need rockers, cab corners, doors, fenders, box, .......... I think I'll keep on driving for a while longer. Some day I'll be rich and buy a rust free one with all upgrades already done. I'll keep dreaming, never know.

No problem, here is the one I got

I didn't think it was that hard to rebuildit, like Mike said getting good parts is pat of the battle. I got my parts from local rebuilder. Getting old bearings off was a bit harder then putting new ones on as there's hardly any room to get under bearing to pull it off. I ended up putting old bearings in a vice till outer race cracked and fell off and used a small cutoff tool to cut through inner race, and being careful not to cut into shaft. Also make sure you get new Armature and brushes as they can also create additional ac noise. If you got extra cash just by one online that is new original and move on. I'm not trying to steer you from doing it yourself, just if you're time is worth money you might be ahead just buying one. This guy has some good stuff, and some vids on youtube. Check it out. http://www.fixinrams.com

@Russ Roth that's a nice laker, our Canada fishing trip can't get here fast enough.

Man if you went that long already I don't think rv275 would need much more fuel, personally I would upgrade. Your turbo should be fine with 275 Not sure on the valve cover gasket after 270k you may need one, maybe 40-50 bucks I would think crossover tubes would be fine look at them when you take em out. Definitely all new o rings, crossover tubes and injectors. I would just get the rv275 instead of putting tips on your old ones, keep your old injectors for future as there is no core on RVs. Someday you might get tips for them, but you will always want to set em at same pop pressure, flow matching is also good. Just cleaning them isn't going to get you anywhere at this point.

I'd stay away from alternators from your local parts stores, when I was having problems with mine before rebuilding it, I bought one online from one of mopar discount sites. Ran it for few weeks till I rebuilt my old alternator. Now I have a spare. And I am not sure if you want to up amprige too much as it may create additional problems.

For what it's worth that happened to me once, did everything you did cleaning ect. Ended up buying the new more expensive one, I think it was Gates from Carquest, and noise stopped right away. I'm still running same belt 3 years later. At first I actually thought my alternator bearings were shot On a different note I had a Chrysler Town Country van and it sounded like a crankshaft was broken banging around, Ended up being bad bearings in the alternator

Ether way if it's leaking it's not going to get better, get parts lined up

Sounds to me like dap may be slacking. Unused vacation time maybe...

Man sparking batteries is never a good idea use a voltmeter. If the battery is truly dead try charging it don't rely on alternator to charge it. Or find a place where they can load tested it. It may have a dead cell.

@trreed so S362/68/14 you got is a direct bolt on and can exhaust break be used with it like on hx35. How is it compare to the hybrid. And what's the difference in 12 vs 14 cm. Would it be ok for Towing or just playing. I'm debating what route I want to go as in near future I'll be looking to upgrade but would like to keep my EB that bolts on to turbo, and not inline. Sorry as Im not too expirienced in turbos. I do have studs but not sure what grade, they we're installed by PO.

Assuming you checked ac noise from alternator and fuel pressure is good and no codes then injectors could be a problem. I believe mine went the same way too, just randomly started to miss. Though it was vp but had no codes, so changed injectors and it got better but then expirienced same miss and discovered too much ac current. Fixed alternator and been good for few years now. Few months ago I had a similar miss just once, hoping nothing bad.

Well in that case, I seen jb Weld being used and held up. But it will only work if there is no structural flexing. And you'd have to drain oil and clean surface realy good, you may even want to use a grinder and put a grove like a v bit deeper so jb has something to grab. May get you by for a little while.

I would still run needle valve barely cracked on fuel guage, it may be steady now but with time it may go waky.

I wonder if it will perform similar on a manual transmission.

I think above ^^^ sums it up.