Dieselfuture

So is there an adapter that plugs in to phone or do you got to have laptop with you.

Rust is metal cancer, and in my experience like mentioned above the only right way of dealing with it is cutting it out. Also keep planty of paint on metal to keep air and water off of it. Sandblasting has to be best for removing rust, wire wheel and sending just works it in to metal and you never get it all off. After send blasting you could whipe it down with some thiner. Make it out of stainless, I'm planning on making my own bad in a few years out of stainless just got to find time and some more money.

I made them kind of in line with the frame, the eye hole is about center with frame rail, but not sure if it will make it rotate more or less. I guess it would depend on how I'll use them. I was thinking using them straight forward if I winch I can loop cable back to truck. But if I pull a cat down from a tree then it might fold up a bit, but I know it won't be the bumper bending, my mounting plates are 1/2''. and rest of the bumper is 1/4''

Cool, I see your point, it does look a bit goofy from front in my picture. I did it more for if I hit something it will push it away from the truck. Also I put my hook points and reciver hitch below so I don't hit my shins on them.

hey it kind of looks like the one I made for my truck.

Sounds like I got nothing to worry about then, I was thinking some day 600-700hp would be nice.

How much HP can a stock engine hold up to? All I got is ARP studs

another thing to mention is some of the vehicles came with aluminum drive shafts and plastic cover over them, sometimes carbon fiber, if you have one of them take that plastic crap off it will eat away at aluminum underneath of it otherwise.

ok you guys, if you're going to buy an aluminum one piece drive shaft and spend money, imho make sure you get a new yoke for rear end that is 1480 instead of 1410 like most of them are on dana 80 up to 02 and get your joints up sized to bigger stuff like newer 3rd gens did. I heard there were some failures with 1410, that is coming from a guy at sadler power train that builds these every day. you'll have to buy bigger slip yoke for tyranny side too. At that time I would put new bushing in tranny or transfer case and a new seal. This is going to increase price quiet a bit but in might worth it to some.

sure sounds like a drive shaft problem, but i had it happen once that rear drums were warped so bad it was shaking driving down the road. might try to rotate tires and see if vibration moves to a different spot could be something with rims or tires.

could be as simple as return ball and spring, they lay on the shelf too long and do that occasionally, call fass and tell them you got pressure spikes at idle and they will send you out new spring and ball for free, most of the time. if that doesn't fix the problem it can be that something is restrictive in fuel system and the only way to do it right is to make sure you're 1/2 " all the way around, fuel basket and all. Also do this to the return spring see picture. This way ball doesn't get jammed in the spring.

Not shure if it's too late, but you can drill and tap them and get some fresh grease in there. I did it to mine when I first started to notice a little noise, been about 6k now and no noise.

Well good thing you now know for sure that rear backing plates that are so hard to find for 01.5-02 are exact same as 03 through can't remember. Good time to maybe do hub seals and check bearing, mine were fine at 140k, did look like they might of spun a bit on axle housing, so I used a punch and a hammer and put a few small divots around spindle so bearing don't spin where it shouldn't.

I put fronts from 03 and up on mine and noticed big difference not huge but enough that I could tell. Now for the rear I almost did it few days ago but left mine on for now as they are still 3/4 life left. Fronts are bigger in diameter and width of pad, but rears use same pad but are larger in diameter, even parking shoes are same size, so the only difference in rear is diameter slightly bigger which will help some. If yours are wore and you're going to buy rotors pads, then spend another$50 on caliper brackets and upgrade. Reason I went trough my rears just now is my backing plates for parking shoes were shot and couldn't find any that were made for 2002 but then I bought backing plates for 03 and up and they fit perfect.

Make sure there are no burs anywhere when assembling back, a small nick in ear would push on u-joint cap and make it hard to move, and will wear out prematurely.

Stealer only wanted $270 for each but it came with mounting hardware and shoes, the only other place I found was online Mopardirect or something like that and they want $170 for each. These are for aam axles but are identical and only $45 on amazon for a pair.

No kidding, when I was looking for a truck this was the only one for sale that was 6 spd and lower miles I was ready to go to southern states at that time but couldn't find anything for about half a year, so I settled for this one. But I wold love to get a southern truck.

OK, I got tired of searching and got a set of backing plates for 2003 and newer AAM Axle, and guess what, it's exact same baking plates. I figured for &50 I can put them on the shelf for never know what. Not sure why all of the listings for (924-226 Doorman) say 2003 and newer, if these guys knew that older dodges with rear disk breaks are same they would make a lot more money and price would probably go up. Anyway here are some pictures, and also rear breaks for newer models are almost the same unlike fronts. Fronts were bigger in diameter and thickness, rears are only bigger in diameter but pads are exactly same, even parking brakes are identical. So for now I left my old breaks on and only changed backing plates. Hope this helps a lot of people that are fortunate to find this thread.

I made mine out of 1/8" stainless just cause I had a piece. And also I put a slightly longer bolt in to hold it in place. Don't forget to snug all of the other bolts you see in there, it would be just as bad if one of them fell on the gears. Couple of them are hard to get to.

I just tested mine last week with a rubber cap from menards that I punched a hole in it to put my quick connect, cost me about $10. Put 20 psi to it and it was all it would hold before trying to blow off the turbo, because cap is slightly bigger. Then I used soap water and found few very small leaks, one on intake horn boot, one on intake bolt, and one by intercooler driver side boot itself had tiny bubbles pushing through rubber. Might be getting all new boots some day.

I did it on a 12 valve I had, and I thought it was pretty easy, a bit time consuming. This is also a good time to pull radiator and power wash it and everything else. New thermostat and coolant flush. Plus do crank case vent mod that Mike came up with. All of this for less than $20 and some time. Well except for coolant and thermostat.

If you don't use any 2 cycle oil in your fuel try it 1 oz to gallon, make sure it's ashless. And in your case try a bit thicker mix, might get some more life out of it until you save some money for new vp. Industrial Injection is the one I would go with, don'rt waste money on anything special.

Sound to me like your tranny shop screwed up, maybe not intentionally, but it can't work right backwards. Hopefully that was your problem, but I would go trough as mach of it as you can and double check, could be more than just one mistake.

Put a needle valve before your fuel pressure gauge and crank it down shut and back off just a hair so fuel can get through. It will prolong life of your gauge ,and eliminate any unstable pressure spikes.

Mine used to make that noise with ad150, turning key on for just a second and psi would go to maybe 5, but after i putt fass on it seems to not make much noise anymore and psi doesn't seem to go anywhere. I think some of it has to do with return ball and spring, if it seated in place and it likes it maybe noise goes away. I wouldn't worry about it as long as you got good driving pressure. P.S. Now that I think about it you probably don't have a needle valve on your fuel gauge or if you do it's not turned down far enough. that's how you can kill fuel gauge prematurely, does it bounce a few psi when running?