Dieselfuture

A crap, i forgot to mention that my 1/8 line runs through 1/2 line, the 1/2" is just a drain tube in case there is a leak at the gauge.

I put mine on the dash just above heter control, it was supposed to be next to windshield but I didn't like it there. Had to take dash cover off anyway to fix doges crappy plastic dash. Everything went together pretty easy once I figured out how to pull dash out.

Not sure if you got your injectors or had time to work on your truck, but i think i'm getting closer on mine. Just read a whole bunch of info on troubleshooting vp44 fuel system at Blue Chip, going to do some tests soon and find out. if everything tests out good with all sensors then more likely case of surging without check engine light would be computer on vp. if that's the case i'm going to attempt fixing it myself before turning it in as a core, figure there is no warranty on the electrical crap anyway. Hope it's not the problem but sure feels that way.

Mike is right. 0230 will be set but, you wont know about it unless you check for codes. i just installed mechanical gauges in my truck and found out that I still had an in tank fuel pump"factory recall i believe", unplugged the relay for it thinking it was air dog relay and hot wired it and then heard noise in tank not under truck. Anyway i ran the truck that way for few minutes before i figured it out, never had check engine light come on. not until later I checked for codes and discovered 230. As for fuel in cab I ran an old blue 1/2 inch fuel line that comes with airdog, from gauge to firewall. it sticks out about 2 inches past firewall and i slid the other end over a fitting on the gauge and put a clamp on it. Now I just got to look once in a while to make sure nothing is dripping under the truck. P.S. I got push on fittings for air and fuel gauge lines, not compression.

Not to still this thread but I had similar issue happen last night when I hooked up my new mechanical gauges. I had fuel lines drained because I changed return line bolt in vp and added 2 ball valves on to air dog for easier filter change. So when I was ready to fire up the truck, I turned the key on and pump primed for few second just like usual and then I bumper the key without starting to prime and then I tried starting it and it cranked for bit but didn't even try to fire up. So I primed it again and gauge goes up to 18 or so then tried to start it again and after few cranks it fired up but my fuel pressure dropped to 0, I let it run for about 20 sec opened nidle valve up some more still 0 pressure so I shut it off. Did the key thing and got fuel pressure again, start the truck and no pressure. So then I hot wired aidog straight to the battery and fire up the truck and got pressure. What the hell? Let it run for a few minutes like that shut it off hooked relay back up and it runs normal, 18-19 psi. What do you think cased that? And what controls that relay? ECM? Is that how it knows to prime for few seconds before start and like 30 second when you bum the key? P.S. I have another relay on fire wall I thought that was the one for aidog but when I jumped 30 and 87 fuel pump in tank kicked in, I didn't even know I had that one, air dog has a draw straw and was put in before I got the truck. Can I get rid of that pump all together? I'm going to pull the tank and put in a straw that goes in basket to fix 1/4 tank issue so ill have to get rid of that pump anyway. question is all the wiring for it can it be removed without issues since I'm guessing it was some recall thing anyway. Ok I'm getting lost in my own writing, so hopefully someone can point me in a right direction:ahhh: Thank you.

I thought it was any bio, if you don't drive the truck on daly basis it will start to attack fuel system. Maybe you're right with 2precent comercial all a guy has to do is drain water separator once in a while:shrug:. And most of us have air dog or fass that makes it super easy. I just know for a fact that my truck had no leaks until I put 2precent commercial bio from cum and go and within a week I had fuel dripping on the ground running of bell housing, thought it was rear main seal leak and then discovered that injector lines 1 and 6 were leaking at the head. Maybe coincidence but kind of weird. So that was firs and last tank of bio I put in. Plus my truck sits for a few weeks sometimes as I have a car to drive to work. Save money on fuel so I can buy more crap for the truck:spend:

Ok small update. Just got my gauges from genos, they had a deal or at least I got one, free shipping and left out fuel isolator so I saved $90. Got ISS Pro EV1 mechanical gauges and dash pod. Got it all put in looks great and works great, I didn't mount it by the windshield, made my own bracket and put it just above heater controls. Fuel 30 psi, boost 60 psi and 1500 egt. Drove the truck around with no trailer, my fuel pressure stayed right around 18-19 , boost seemed normal but I did hit about 32 psi max with qwadzilla unplugged. I thought its supposed to throw a code and cut out about 20 psi. My waste gate is rusted shut, cleaned it once took about 1k and was stuck again, so i left it alone. no need to get j hook. But anyway couldn't tell if the miss was still there didn't drive it too far, but fuel and psi didn't jump around it was all smooth. I also changed return bolt on vp that has a spring and ball it, just in case. And about using 2precent bio, I tried it once and got 2 leaky injector lines with in that tank. And then I found out that if I don't drive it often that it will ruin vp because of moisture. I don't know if this helps anybody but here it is:).

My is just one push unlocks both doors, and I never herd alarm go off. Maybe something is screwy with my key fob. I'll try pushing twice and see what happens. Thanks.

I think you're right I never got an original key when I bought my truck, might have to go to stealer and see what it would take to figure out, if it will cost more than a fill up I'm spending money on fuel then the hell with the key.

Don't meant to steal this thread, but I had a few questions. I've seen your fuel pressure gauges set up makes sense, your boost I'm guessing one is through map sensor and the other somewhere on manifold? And your pyrometer do you have 2 holes drilled in your exhaust manifold for both gauges? also I have qwadzilla adrenaline with pulse 2 but I heard that electrical stuff isn't that accurate, is that the reason for mechanical gauges? Double assurance? I've been having weird issues with my truck for few years now, and I'm starting to think that qwadzilla box is junk and I should off went with edge. But then again I won't know until I fix whatever there is that is wrong with it. Also I like how I can have max mileage high idle and able to tune it to whatever you feel like. Anyway thank you for all the info.

Ok, I just changed my cam sensor and nothing changed so I got a spare one now:). My truck is still misfires at about 1800-2000 rpm. So today I went and unplugged my qwadzilla and plugged map sensor back to original plug not through qwadzilla wiring. Anyways drove it and forgot how much less power it has without it, most of the miss went away but it's still there, just not as noticeable. Really faint miss, I swear its still there, just adding more power makes it more noticeable. I'll try to pull a trailer with a load and will know for sure, that's when I can really tell the difference.

I think they do, my dimmer works fine and got 3 clicks in it, cargo dome and not sure what the third one does. And door switches work fine, when I close a door lights go off. The only time they stay on no metter what is when I use remote lock unlock. And then it will be on for a minute or so, and won't bother me again unless I use remote to unlock the truck, I'll just use a key to get in from now on, but its nice to use remote when I got someone weighting on the other side.

Well I'm to fast for the truck:lmao:, and when I get in it im ready to go if the temps are fine, so if in Walmart or menards or whatever parking lot and I'm leaving, the truck is still worm, I jump in and ready to roll. And about 20-30 sec later my lights shut off. But anyway it's not a big deal I was just wondering if there was a way to adjust it by my self, didn't really want to go o stealership, I might just use my key to get in from now on and call it a day. Thanks for the replies

- - - Updated - - - Another stupid question:sofa: . We got cum&go not to far they got 2% bio, can I put 128:1 of 2% bio and another 128:1 2cycle just to make sure. Now I know MoparMan chewed me out before for mixing 2cycle and power service together. And when I changed to straight to 2cycle truck ran much better. But I heard that bio if you don't use yore truck every day will ruin fuel system as it corrodes stuff because of moisture in it, or if I only use 32 oz that won't matter? And 32 oz of 2cycle for freezing and extra protraction.

I agree about garbage on tv but my wife seems to like it:cookoo:

That is what mine does, empty or with 1000 lb in the bed doesn't seem to affect it but pulling 10k is when I notice it. And only when it get close to 1700-1800 rpm and sometimes closer to 2000 . And not in all gears mostly 6th and sometimes 5th. And I tried getting in to it when it acts up to make a code to come up and nothing just misses worse. I also unplugged my qwadzilla and put map sensor back in, still dit it just not as bad and less power. It's almost like qwadzilla enhances the problem. That is why I think something is going on with vp, but don't want to change it till I know for a fact. I'm gonna change my cam sensor next and see what happens, my tach does bounce a little. But on your truck I'm not sure if you have to change cam and cranck hopefully we can figure this out, I already don't care that much for mileage just want to run good:mad:

Would love to find out what it is my truck done it for 3 years now, it maybe similar issue, please keep us posted.

Thats kind of what I thought, but I don't like dealers. Worked for a few in a past what a bunch of crooks and assho.. I do my best to stay away from any dealer and any service. But anyway thanks for input.

Is there a way to adjust timer for dome light? When I use remote to open doors dome light will be on for about a minute and there is no way to shut it off, unless I push lock button on key pad. Sometimes leaving store parking lots is annoying because I can't see where I'm going from light reflection. Plus every one outside stares at you . It may be the way it is but I hope there is a way to change it. Lets say when I get in a truck and shut the door lights should shut off, but the only time that works if I use a key to get in, or don't luck the truck at all. Thanks for any input.

I know that that was stupid on my part mixing the two, my problem is, I always over think it. Every time I want to do somthing better it always happens as usual. My Grandfather always said don't touch ____ and it won't stink!

Yes I did seen them grounds and took them off, cleaned, put some dielectric grease, sanded everything, on all of the wires that I toched. I realy think not using Power Service helped, but then again lots of people use that stuff and don't have problems that I had. But I'm happy that it ran better this time, hopefuly I'm on the right track. I also thing adding 2 grounds had to help some too. but if it surges again I will hold it at that spot as long as I can to hopefuly throw a code. Planning on going to Canada somtime and don't want to get stranded up there, that would be lots of money to get towed back:wow: - - - Updated - - - I was also thinking what if it was an Injector that sticks once in a while, how will i know? will it throw a code or do i have to take them out and test them?

I used to mix 2 stroke and PS, and after reading some things about PS (power service) I now use straight 2 cycle and truck runs noticeable better. Less surging, smoother, quieter. 1 ounce per gal.

A littlel update, just went on a trip 300 ml, redid my grounds and reset apps, also did not use any power service just straight 2cycle. had fluke volt meter on apps. This time it surged very little and only few times nothing bad as it was last time i droveit. volt meter did not jump at all when surged, so i dont belive it's apps, and not using any ps in fuel seemed to help also. at this point not sure if it was power service causing this surge or some grounds that i added or the apps that i reset but defenetly ran 100% better.

Probably looking right at it, but I still can’t find it

I'm not for sure , but if you put rear end on jack standsand turn driveshaft for every 3.55 turns of driveshaft your tires will turnonce.