Dieselfuture

unless somebody put ARP head studs in one at the time andsqueezed head gasket, but you would probably know about that

Yeah, I've been trying to eliminate some of them including all of my grounds and got my rockerpanel trim piece off and pulled carpet up following some wires and didn'trealize how bad my floor had rusted out about 6 inches in . I always washed the truck really good after winter and touched up paint on undercarriage. I guess that’s why they say these engines will outlast the body. This new steel they use really suck, seems like no meter how well you take care of something, it just falls apart. Hopefully I get time soon totake it on hwy with trailer and see how it does after going through some of the grounds. And I'll have my fluke hooked to apps wire to see if it bounces at the same time it acts up, and if not then I'll be getting ready for VP. This time instead of easing out of problem I'll try to keep it in that spot as long as Ican and see if it throws a code.

I onlytried it with harness unplugged from qwadzilla and map sensor hooked up tofactory wiring not through qwadzilla wiring. But haven’t tried it with qwad completelyremoved. I read some instructions and it says when need to jump another vehicleunplug main harness to qwad and reconnect map sensor through factory connector. I hopeI'm explaining this correct, getting confused myself already. But yes I want tounhook qwad all together from all of the wires and pull something that way andsee what happens. So if I monitor through pulse2 percentage will I see it changeor something, never went to that option before. And all that adjustment you cando on it how the hell do I know what to adjust it too? If I had analog gauges Icould calibrate my qwad to them ? Thanks for help if I made any since. - - - Updated - - - So Iyou think it's vp, would you guess mechanical or electrical failure? and why am I not having any codes is my ecm bad or ? just brain storming.

Will it be same wire on APPS that you use to set initial voltage on Timbos APPS. Because if so my BD exhaust break is hooked to it and it's under my steering wheel panel. than i can just hook my VM to that wire and have it inside the cab. Shitty thing is it doesn't act up so much without a trailer, and my trailer is stuck in a back yard. Plus trailer by it self doesn't weight enough to cause my truck to jerk but anyway good idea Thanks. Can I also maybe test my VP the same way by hooking VM to it in some place?

what does control my tachometer? I don't think I havecrank sensor I think all I have on 2002 is cam sensor. Is cam sensor what controlstach or is there something else? I would like to start eliminating some issues. Because my tach bounces same time It surges and on idle and pretty much all the time, about 100-200 rpm or so. So anyway if I can fix my tachometer it would be a start. Maybe they all do it, but I don't think it's normal got to be some wiring or something.

I have a fluke 97, really accurate meter. Are you sayinghook it up and drive the truck and see what it's doing when it acts up or justhook the meter up when sitting still and start the truck, throttle it upand see if voltage jumps? either way sounds like something i should try.

I tiyed downloding this but it's asking me for password, is there a password or my computer is nuts? Thank you in advance.

If I keep throttle in one place when it acts up it getsworse and almost not drivable, but it won’t throw a code, seems to do it around17-1800 rpm or close to 60mph. Used 3 different scanners, only code I ever seenwas 500. I tried unhooking Qwad box and pluggingthe map sensor back the way it’s supposed to be factory not trough qwad wiring.And it didn’t seem to make any difference. Maybe I should unhook everythingthat has anything to do with qwadzilla and try it again. At this point I’m a littlelost and really don’t want to buy vp44 unless I get a code for it. - - - Updated - - - Well I just went through all of my battery cables and re solderedall of the connectors. Then added two grounds, one to the body and one to theframe. Checked voltage to APPS and reset it again. Then I drove it again, and it seems good but there is a small hesitationaround 1800 rpm, and my tachometer is bouncing a little. If I was pulling mytrailer then I’m guessing it would be a lot worse just like always when pulling.Funny thing is I bought this truck to pull a trailer. My friend at the sametime bought a Chevy with a big block 4 times cheaper and never had a problem,thinking now I should of done same thing. But I think maybe I’m just mad wrightnow. Scanned it again when I came back with Blue Point Scanner and no codes. Canit be Cam Sensor? Or is there something I'm overlooking? Why don't I have any codes, maybe if I kick it tomorrow:kick: it will throw a code so I know what to fix.

what are the microns on them filters? and how much are they compering to Air Dog? Thanks!

OK, I know it's been a while but I haven't used the truck since last time I was on this site. Just went out of town round trip was almoust 300 ml, towing my goosneck and my toy on it. avareged 10 mpg. the worst i've ever got yet, but the fuel was from late fall. This time it statrted to serge around 65 mph, I set cruse on and it seemed to help a lot if not took care of it all together. I know some of you say that it's more likely APPS but i have no codes and it's only got maybe 2-3k on it. got it from Timbo. triyed reseting it but didn't help. maybe not doing it right. also got my hends on FLUKE 97 Scopemeter and tested my betteries for AC voltage highest it's got was 0.056 reved up to about 2k, idle it's between 0.000-0.005 Vrms. so I don't think it's diodes. Any other thoughts? Could it be somthing else with cruse control? it did seem to make a big diference this time with it on didn't surge as bad. It was actualy driveble.

wonder why? not enought money or just couse, i spent like $1000 there, unless they ran out of people with diesels...to sell things to.

I had stiky buttons before on my pulse2 i took it appart and lined everything up, a lot better now than when it was shipped to me, seems to work good. are you saying qwadzilla is going out of buisness? them bastards

not sure how it would tear up water pump, but our old 2002 subaru my wife had had an issue with a head gasket leaking antifrize so i put these tablets in there, and worked for about 2 years and never leaked after we traied it the car for a crv

for temporary fix ive used http://www.amazon.com/Bars-Leaks-HDC-Radiator-Tablet/dp/B000KKND3Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i, they work pretty good. had old 350 sbc head bolts leaking antifrize into valve cover not much but you can see it buble when engine is hot.did it 3 years ago still no leak. i used 3 tablets.

it says hx35 on it, i have 2002 6spd HO, it doesn't get there all the time but up hills with a heavy load and qwad turned up a little gets to 30-35 almost instant and sometimes gets over 40 and i have seen it at 45-46 but then again the only guage i have is the monitor for qwadzila, it's probably not accurate.

i was on other forums and some guys say they went with dual disk just to go to triple later and daily drive them and say like triple better then dual but thats not my opinion. i got some off brand single disk in mine that doesn't have much for friction it's either on or off probubly doesn't have spring hub, kind of sucks towing and if i turn my qwad box up it will slip so im thinking of a diferent cluch, just thought triple from valair has 3250 pressure should still be soft and sience it's triple might slip a little more for towing take off.dual has 3800 pressure and id think that it would suck taking off with a trailer. i don't realy know what i'm talking about just trying to see if anyone used it for towing and playing and their thoughts.

what do you guys think on valair street triple for daily driving and towing once in a while.

ok makes sience, i got qwadzilla and seen 45lb of boost so i guess my surge problem is not from boost:banghead:

could that be my random surge problem? how does it defuel it self and guys that have bigger turbos and push 100+ psi what do they do so it doesn't defuel itself. my waste gate is rusted shut i cleaned it twice but takes about half a year and it's stiks shut again. but i don't have any codes, don't mean to steel this thread:think:

go to youtube or type in google transistor change on vp44 most of driving issues are cused by it, i think. at least is what i heard, and some times there is no codes whed this transistor fails, im just thinking out loud:think:

i dont have dead pedal, i was just wondering if anyone knew if that fuel solenoid inside vp44 is controled by the transistor that is inside vp44 computer and by changing that transistor it would fix random serge problem that is so hard to diagnose.

thanks for advice, i waited a few days and it droped to 18-20 idle 18 driving normal and 14 wot.

qwestion is way beyond me but i got a BD brake and works real well, but i did blow a gascket once, on a waste gate flange. changed it with some orange hi temp silicone and so far so good.

I LOVE IT but i think it's a wash, get's me out of house and out of my wifes way, i go cut wood all day... and drink lots of beer, so yeah i don't know whats cheper paying for gas or everything that involves getting WOOD.