joecool911

What winter fronts are you guys running?

Did you fuse it?

My 47RE is going out. Starting to chatter on low rpm lug in lock up and OD. I need to get my mind around gathering parts for the swap quick. Does anyone know how much I'll need to spend to get this done? Are there any sorurces that sell kit for reasonable prices? I have access to decent replacement auto transmissions locally for $1,500 tha have valve body upgrades, add $500 for removal and install and $1,000 for a torque converter and we are up to $3k. Can I do the swap for this amount if I do most of the labor myself? Kinda short on money. Saving for hip replacement surgery. Out of pocket looking like $5k plus living expenses while in recover.

I do service work in upscale neighborhoods. I am concerned about leaving oil spots too on paver driveways. I don't drip any oil. Oil in puke bottle must collect from angle of truck and inherently poor design of the system. That's why we do the mod. Once mod is done we don't puke anymore.

b Run the tube down far enough and you won't have any splash to worry about.

You could leave one strategic joint loose in order the remove the assembly should that be necessary for maintenance. But not one that sits vertically. Joints fit pretty tight.

Wow cool! Downloaded and saved. Dana 60 front, 70 rear as expected.

I have ratio tags on my differentials. I'll look for other info on the axles.

Check ground cables?

Is there a axle type identifier on the Dana axles? I need to order parts and want to know what I have. Not listed on my original sales invoice.

Take it back and explain your problem.

Excellent. This site has saved my bacon more than once. Glad we could help. If you start having pressure issues again, start with isolator again. Maybe work towards eliminating it when you can get the right fittings. Mine was ok for a while and then started acting up again. No issues since getting rid of it.

Napa has the black stuff, but you'll be fine for a while with the clear stuff. It's just a safe gaurd for the long haul.

If you install a needle valve you can shut it off should it become necessary. Use that black air line tube to the cab. Like 300 psi. Isolators in theory are nice, but can lead to accuracy issues. Plus you don't need to worry about bleeding off the air. There is a write up on it somewhere with pictures. The test gauge from vulcan has a 6' hose. You can run it into the cab. I hook I up and take it under the truck and adjust the fuel pressure and get it right where I want it. No jumping up and down to see the gauge. Since dumping my isolator Ive not had any pressure fluctuations. Or appearent fluctuations should I say. I'm at 20psi idle when warm and grid is not cycling on and off.

I'd get a mechanical test gauge. Vulcan sells them. Takes the guess work out if it. If you're running an isolator I'd be really suspect of a proper reading at the guage. Thought mine was running low. Kept Turing up the pressure. Finally got a test gauge and my pressure was 35#. Got rid of the isolator and run hot right to the gauge with a snubbed and needle valve.

Good to know. My left is dripping overnight. Might as well rebuild calipers, new u joints at the same time. If the u joints have grease zerks, have they already been replaced?

So the ultimate solution would be to replace axles if worn? How do you measure wear? Or just visual?

Sounds like a blood clot and stroke you're describing.

Not sure what a sleeve is, but here's a link and picture of what's included. I don't have a lathe. http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=4621

I see that quad4x4.com sells a service manual for doing the job for $10. Looks like the parts necessary with seal install tool is $250. Looking at videos on YouTube, a proper seal install tool makes the job a lot easier. I am willing to buy the install tool and will loan it to anyone who needs it via mail. I e gotten so much from you guys it'd be a way to pay you guys back. One question. I read that there could be wear in the axle shaft sealing surface. And that you need to locate the seal so that it's not on the wear point. Do the seals actually wear out the metal on the shaft? Seems strange. Rubber wearing out metal.

What to do if acid level is off?

Drivers side. Any supplements that can be added to "fix" seal short of replacement?

My left front axle is leaking on my 4x4. Is this a fix for the faint of heart? As I understand the left is a lot harder than the right. Any idea what a shop would charge? Should I plan on other things while stuff is off?

I am thinking of installing a couple buss bars for cleaner wiring under the hood. I've got a few wires going to battery cables and its a pain. My raptor came with a pretty split loom covered harness and relay. Problem is that it's about 6' too long and coiled up and tie wrapped under the hood. Going to shorten and run negative and positive 8 gauge wires to buss bars and shorten up alarm, raptor wires etcetera. Nothing going to battery. Run the 8 gauge wires from the power distribution box lugs. I hate scabbed in wires.

I've go a 23' travel trailer, bumper pull. Id love to have a bigger trailer. Sometimes I want a smaller one. But as long as you're towing a piece of plywood down the road, where is the line where you start using a lot more fuel. The wind resistance is already there. So how much bigger can I go without seeing a big jump in fuel consumption and stress on the tow vehicle? Currently 7,000# GVW.