Everything posted by joecool911
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Frantz Filter Systems
What is added that's beneficial? What's more beneficial, having the additives or having clean oil? Or where is the middle ground?
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Trailer Wiring
Yep, I even fill the connector with dielectric grease and it still builds up green corrosion and cross shorts. Buy a new connector to be sure. Same problem exists with the truck side connector.
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Interesting oil filter
That's just not right. Clean oil is amber.
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Frantz Filter Systems
Kinda disappointing. I was thinking that the filter would clean the oil to a nice amber color. How can you tell that it's clean if it turns black?
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Frantz Filter Systems
They claim if you change the paper every 1,500-2,000 miles and top off the oil, you can go I definitely between changes. I'm still not convinced that's smart? I hear that oil doesn't wear out. Just becomes contaminated. I suppose you could spin off the regular oil filter occationally and shake it out too. :tongue:Do you think the startup at oil changes wears on the motor? You don't get oil pressure for a period...longer than a regular cold startup. Might be another reason to reduce number of oil changes.
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Frantz Filter Systems
Ok Michael, I'll hold off on ordering until I hear if we can get a forum discount.
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Frantz Filter Systems
Any ideas on how to integrate an automatic transmission filter and a fuel filter? You can't just install in-line due to the fact that these are bypass systems. For oil you take off pressure and return to filler cap (no pressure). So for fuel you'd run your filter outflow to the fuel tank return line? Auto trans from fittings on radiator?
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Frantz Filter Systems
The sandwich adapter looks cool, as you can take off a sensor right from the adapter for pressure and/or temperature. Anyone try a transmission filter or fuel polishing filter? Any chance of doing a group buy to kick off their sponsorship? I see it advocated to change the paper roll more often and your oil and regular oil filter less often, like once a year.
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Frantz Filter Systems
I see that Frantz is a advertiser here. Did a search and latest Frantz entry was like 2009. Any comments on their systems? Would it be advisable to install a fuel filter system under the truck on frame rail? Anyone install a oil filter system or transmission filter system on their truck? - - - Updated - - - Got tired of waiting for an answer, so searched for info elsewhere. Here is an interesting read. http://www.cumminsforum.com/articles/articles/18/1/Anatomy-of-a-Frantz-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter/Page1.html
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Electric radiator fan?
I did a quick search on the subject. Nobody seems to think the mod is worthy. Is that still the case. Payoff in fuel economy not realistic? Read so threads on other forums of guys using Ford Taurus fans on the cheap with reasonable success.
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radiator drain plug question
Yeah, I was pulling and turning with fears of having the drain plug explode and then where am I at? So I just pulled the lower radiator hose.
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radiator drain plug question
Can't get mine out at all. You're a step ahead of me.
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Wolves in Idaho?
Yeah, I cast bullets. Glock has polyoginal barrels and tend to not shoot well unless you have a Barstoe or similar aftermarket barrel. I've not worried about it much before, but we are talking about it now.
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Smart Shift Users?
Anyone using a smart lock on their automatic transmissions?I do a fair amount of off roading for hunting and camping. I've got an awesome torque converter, but if it won't stay locked up you get very little engine braking. I am wondering, since an exhaust brake pretty much needs a smart lock, why not add a smart lock as a partial solution towards a complete exhaust brake system? Do you see any issues to doing this? Is it hard on the transmission. My Trans is stock. How do these smart locks work in combination to an upgraded valve body?
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Proper Use of Jake Brake?
Any chance of installing an exhaust brake with auto transmission?
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Varying Temperature
Another possibility is a plugged radiator core. Cooling liquid spending too much time in the radiator. Another one I'm considering is a mal functioning fan clutch. Not kicking out enough could cause over cooling. Another one to consider is a faulty temp sensor. - - - Updated - - - For those using non cummins thermostats and achieving consistent temps, what brand are you using. $60 for a cummins unit and I still have a 15 degree swing. I was more consistent with a napa one, but it was on its last leg and had physical damage.
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MPG discussion
According to the article referenced in the opening post, 10-12% penalty for a faulty fan clutch is possible. That's a huge number!I still believe that my fan clutch always feels the same. I have not checked it in hot weather. But last summer I could hear it kick in during high temps. My belief is that I'm not kicking out when temps are cool or moderate. I'll try the hose or rolled up newspaper test tonight and report. Be it will shred the newspaper, but I could be wrong.
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MPG discussion
This morning prior to start up I felt the fan rotational resistance. It was significant. Would not rotate at all without pressure. I here that you should be able to spin in a bit when cold and have it free spin a half turn or so. same resistance after driving an hour
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MPG discussion
I think my fan clutch is not disengaging. Looking for a fuel efficient fan clutch if one exists. I did a web search and came up with this article. Just skimmed so far, but it has a lot of good info. Maybe Michael wrote it? http://cumminsengines.com/uploads/docs/cummins_secrets_of_better_fuel_economy.pdf Would love to discuss more here on maximizing fuel economy without getting the thread closed due to decisive conversation. It's good for all of us!
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100 watt bumper mounted driving lights
I believe that you'd just ground that switch wire without a switch.
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100 watt bumper mounted driving lights
I'm not mike, but it should work fine. If you add the switch to the dash as shown, you can cancel the driving lights from coming on. I spent some time reading about relays. Have a much better understanding now. They are simply a low amp switch that will control high amp load.
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raptor 150 running real slow
So, I can get a couple quick connect fittings like that of the Raptor and reconnect the carter and use the same plug from Raptor harness? Then just zip tie that sucker in place next to the raptor on the frame rail?
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What fuel pressure do you run if you have a gauge?
I'm very pleased with my fuel system now. 15/20 psi. The Raptor 100 seems to be adequate. Everything is settling in consistent and reliable. Would my old carter pump work with the raptor wiring harness under the truck as a back up? Problem is that it was only doing 5/10. Not sure that's even enough for a backup.
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Upgrading further than Raptor pump and 1/2" lines?
First of all, from experience plan on either rebuilding or replacing the fuel filter/water separator drain valve when you upgrade from OEM to higher fuel pressure. I went from 5-10 to 15-20. Had a diesel leak for a few days and finally found the drain valve not shutting off entirely. Why is the drain hose so short? Spills diesel all over the front axle. A longer tube would allow you to catch the diesel when you drain off the water or change the filter. I'm thinking now about adding a filter system. Those element OEM style filters are like $25 and only like 10 microns. What kind of frame rail mounted dual filter system would you recommend. Looks like vulcan performance has a 3 micron filter and water separator spin on dual unit for like $100. Replacement filters less than the cost of a cartridge for the OEM unit. Moving forward from here, what about upgrading the return fuel line and a draw straw? I'm stock, but am still getting a 5 psi swing between idle and WOT. Further reliability, I'm considering ordering a second Raptor pump for 15 minute swap out and then not caring about time for warrenty replacement of the eventual and it seems inevitable failure of even a good pump.
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engine over cooling
If I may ask, what temp gauge are you buying again. I need to do the same thing on my truck.