KATOOM

EXACTLY...! I can adjust them to what I want but they dont sit correctly aligned in their hole. The sit cocked at an angle after adjusted. Given there are "3" adjustment options, I dont understand what role that inaccessible one plays in this. Is it there to taunt or does it serve a purpose? If I can ask anyone else who has sport headlights... Can you take a picture of that top adjustment on yours and post it? That would possibly help me understand if or where I need to adjust mine. Thank you...!

I'm stumped... I installed my new headlights a month or so ago and adjusted them accordingly. But the more I raised the beam and pulled it inward the more the housing would become misaligned with the fender opening. Hopefully the picture helps explain what I mean. These are OEM replacements and unless there's something else going on which I cant visually identify, so I should be able to get them straight like the factory lights were. Trying to figure this out, I remembered there's an adjustment on the top middle of the housing but.....its not accessible unless you remove the entire housing. Seriously??? Who thought that one up? Does anyone know what that non-accessible adjustment is for? You can see it in the other picture...

You both need to check the PS temps this winter and compare results... I'll be posting mine too.

Good info guys.....good info.

Absolute truth... I dont think most people understand what kind of force they're asking of their steering components, suspension, and tires when they crank the wheel without the vehicle moving. Some vehicles dont seem to be phased by it but others you can almost see the struggle. And in saying that, all the tires have to be doing is moving the slightest amount to remove almost all pressure when turning. Not fast either but simply moving at any rate of speed...

At least we can laugh at ourselves...

Moparman in a 20 years.....?

Your frigid winter temps would give me reason to think about not installing a cooler. Although a simple shield or winter front would probably prevent any excessive cooling issues. And in -30* weather a winter front wouldn't be a bad idea for many other reasons too. Thats COLD. In regards to my tires... The truck came factory equipped with 265's. I highly doubt my 285's are overtaxing the steering system or the brakes. Especially since I just replaced the front pads at 115k miles with 1/8" material still left on them. The constant pressure within the hydroboost system (as Haggar so elegantly pointed out) is the reason for the heat. Heat is bad and breaks down lubricants. And when there's a small quantity of lubricant (I.e, the PS system), the integrity can be an issue unless someone is diligent like you to swap it out often. As I mentioned before, I think Dodge simply cut corners by not installing a PS cooler. Yes, I'm using a laser temp gun. I dont think monitoring the PS fluid temp is worth the trouble. Its just as easy to pop the hood every now and then and see what temperature the lines are.

What, are you trying to show me up with a "size matters"..... Dont forget to post some temperature readings in relation to ambient temperature when you get a chance. I'm curious to see how much cooler yours is.

Update, I tested with the engine running and the slack is pretty much all but gone. So I cant explain whether or not thats simply the hydroboost rod not returning as fast as normal due to the lack of hydraulic pressure or if there's something else going on I havent figured out yet. Also, crisis averted with the dragging caliper too. Last night I took the front brakes apart and cleaned things up. Cycled the calipers with no pads and greased up the slide pins. Put it all back together and they work so good its silly... Not only can I spin the tires almost completely free of rotational drag but the temperature of the rotors is much much cooler. So...lesson learned that even though you're not daily driving your vehicle, they still need attention.

OK, classroom comparison... Here's a short short clip of what my brake pedal feels like when the engine is off. You can clearly hear and see the movement which seems like there's two rods not touching and the gap is recognizable. Does yours do this with the engine OFF? I'll be checking again today with the engine ON but just wanted to get this out in the thread. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glNGhUoRqMo&feature=youtu.be

I may try that but I think I'm going to order some SS brake lines first. They cant hurt and its possible the drivers side rubber line is compromising return fluid flow. Also, I dont have the 4 wheel ABS so the system couldnt know if either front is not working correctly.

Looking forward to hearing what you conjure up... In regards to the brake lines, if thats the problem, does anyone have a source fro SS braided lines?

FANTASTIC discussion.....! This is what these forums should be for, not arguing. Also, I have more to add to my thread in regards to the hydroboost and brakes. The cooler is clearly helping as the hydroboost lines are staying much cooler. Nice... But I need everyone to put on their thinking caps one more time. Remember, the initial reason I started the thread was because I was concerned about the "feedback feel" within the brake pedal and described it as a slight shudder. In saying that, this is not an accurate description because what it truly is should be described as a slight "bump" in the initial pedal movement. Almost as if theres a small gap between the hydroboost rod and the master cylinder rod. Then as I hit the brakes abruptly the gap is noticeable in the form of a bump in the pedal movement. NOTE: It doesnt happen if I depress the pedal in a easy normal braking fashion. ONLY if I hit the brakes more abruptly. And it typically will only do it during that initial braking event, not repeatedly. OK, now hopefully you're all understanding what I'm feeling in the pedal...because I also noticed when I jacked up the front axle to allow easy unrestricted movement of the tires while turning the tires lock to lock bleeding the hydroboost system, the tires were more difficult to spin by hand than I remember. Thinking this may have been because its was sitting for weeks and I was messing with the brakes a lot while its been sitting, I looked passed this as an issue. Well maybe I should revisit it because I took some laser temp readings on the rotors while driving over the past couple days and it seems that the drivers side is consistently running about 25* hotter than the passenger side. I know thats not much of anything in regards to disc brake temperatures but still shows that there's slightly more drag on that side. I even jacked the axle off the ground again and compared each side and sure enough the passenger side is slightly easier to spin by hand. Not a whole lot but noticeable. So...have I noticed something related? Because I'm very curious as to what this bump in the brake pedal is. There is no braking pull to either side, and they work fantastic too. I'm stumped and wondering if there's something else going on in the master cylinder or possibly the ABS system which would cause a feedback issue in the brake pedal or allow a caliper to not release completely. NOTE: I do not have the 4 wheel ABS either. Just the rear axle. I'm sure this isnt anything anyone will have an answer for either so I wont be disappointed if there's a lot of shoulder shrugging...

Wow.....good find Rogan. Hopefully you called whomever the clutch company is and let them know. Because if its not already in their directions then it should be.

Thank you for that writeup link... Looks helpful if I ever get to that point. I did just finish installing a small PS cooler last night. So obviously my data is limited. As you can see it is little but I wasnt after much and I didnt want to impede too much of the intercooler. I thought about mounting it somewhere underneath but was more interested in constant flow from the radiator fan. I wish it wasnt so shiny silver but maybe some black spray paint will solve that problem. That said, I did a quick check and I think its already lowering about 10* from what it was based on the drive distance and ambient temperature. Not completely sure though and will be doing more checking in the hotter weather, which means I might not know until next summer.

I happen to be installing a small PS cooler on the steering box return line and mounting it in the area where the intercooler has a lot of open real estate. I'll post pictures and results as soon as I'm done.

I know most of us take such warnings with a grain of salt but...this is right out of the 2nd gen FSM. CAUTION: Use only MOPAR power steering fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill.

Just a small correction... The stock fittings are M12x1.5.

Sooooo.....here's an update. Disclaimer: I dont need to drive the truck (its become a garage queen in its old age) so that leaves my the opportunity to research research research before spending money on things that arent broken. I know there are other people who use their truck for everyday use and I respect your needing to get things done much faster than how I handle things. Nonetheless, what I came up with was all the tests indicated that there must be low fluid or air in the system. Why and how I'm not completely sure but this is my "theoretical" opinion... I think the screen and pressure valve on the pump was getting clogged up with sludge over years of use. Even though I replaced most of the fluid about 30k miles ago, the hydroboost system runs HOT and takes its toll on the low volume of fluid. In pointing that out, when I was towing the trailer up that long grade in the summer heat and the engine getting warmer than I've ever let it, I'm guessing that the fluid in the PS reservoir was too high (my fault) and spilled over. Thats where the smell came from. Then for whatever reason the system must have ingested a little air or created an air pocket either do to the fluid overflowing or because the valve screen was gummy which was causing more heat buildup and potentially a cavitating pump. Lots of "theorizing" going on here... Then after parking the truck that night the air burped and puked out more fluid and the pedal feedback was what I was getting after starting the engine. So to test my theory I pulled the pressure line off the pump and pulled out the pressure valve. I included pictures to show what I was working with... You can see the screen which I cleaned after pulling everything apart, and you can see the small orifice and check ball behind it too. Obviously not a lot of volume moves through the pump and I could easily see how any restriction of flow would cause problems for sure. Also I dont know if that check ball is for one way flow but I could see how that could be affected as well if dirty. Well I cleaned everything up and refilled the system. Jacked the front axle on stands and started the engine. Turned the wheel full clock a bunch of times and pumped the brakes, then shut the engine off and let it sit for a few hours as the fluid was now aerated, and thats what the directions say will happen too. The next day I took it around the block and everything felt normal. Brakes are powerful and steering is finger smooth. BUT...when I came back from my short drive the hydroboost lines were already around 110* and it was only about 85* outside. I know this topic has been hashed out before but I believe the hydroboost system on these trucks run way too hot and Dodge cut some corners by not installing a PS cooler.....which is something found on gasoline models and newer gen Cummins trucks. So clearly a PS cooler is needed. I've even checked my hydroboost lines over the years and seen temperatures on the lines in excess of 150*, so I can only imagine how hot it gets when I'm pulling a long grade in the summer. So that said, I found a small PS cooler at NAPA and I think I'm going to install it to see if I can help the hydroboost system run a little cooler. Thats about as far as I've gotten and sorry for the long posts...

Stay safe Moparfamily...

This may answer some questions... https://www.dronerush.com/need-to-register-my-drone-with-faa-5631/

I actually dont know what size they are, but I do know they're not tiny. Maybe a little over a foot across... One is using theirs for photos / virtual tours / fun, and the other is complete recreation. Both had to file with the FAA. I dont know any more than that. I'll have to ask them...

Interesting... I know a few people who've purchased drones over the past year and they had to register with the FAA. Maybe new laws in place?

I thought drone owners had to register with the FAA.