KATOOM

If you ever make it out here and you have a trailer full...I'm happy to lighten the load.

Its not that its "excessive" heat, nor is there any source other than the hydroboost system itself... Its just that it runs HOT and there's even members who've reported scalding their fingers touching the hydroboost lines during summer days. Anything that runs that hot needs more attentive maintenance...

Use a higher quality synthetic PS fluid to help fight the heat the hydroboost system generates. Thats not a suggestion not to change the fluid regularly but that you can help fight cold weather problems and help in hot weather conditions. In a different thread, some shared how installing a PS cooler helped. I installed a small one early fall and I'm curious to see if it does anything.

But its actually peeling the clip material as it moves back and forth... Whatever the cause...hopefully you get it all figured out and working good.

This looks like a result of the pad backing not fitting properly in the clip... Actually, you must have forcefully crammed the pads in the caliper brackets for anything to look like that. When I install my pads I'll set the clips in place and then file away whatever paint and extra metal material is on the pad in order for them to rest easily in the clips, and also move smoothly back and forth by hand. Otherwise the pads have to be shoved back and forth by the caliper and then likely hold the caliper from returning to its proper position. Thats when you get uneven pad wear...

Especially since everyone has a smartphone sitting in their pockets at all times... Taking pictures as you go is GREAT advice.

Likely they were NOT seized but just hard to get apart...which is common practice for anyone trying to get their rear drums off. One old trick in doing so is to place the rear axle on stands, remove the rear tires, on both sides put three lug nuts back on the wheel studs just far enough for the threads to reach the end of the nut. Meaning they're very loose... Then start the truck and put it in gear. With the drums spinning put the transmission in neutral and slam on the brakes. The drums will shoot off from the force. Obviously you can see now that the loose sitting lug nuts are there to prevent drums from rocketing across your garage. Other than that, the R&R process is to do one side at a time so you dont forget what goes where and how things are supposed to look and fit together.

When you get the brakes working correctly you should have ample stopping power. I have an '01 with rear drums too and it takes very little effort to slow this heavy hitter. And if I happen to jump on the brakes in a panic situation, there is no lack of stopping power.

Sounds like a combination of potentials... First the hydroboost system is possibly in desperate need of attention. Flushing the fluid, assuring the pump valve isnt plugged with debris, and that the accumulator is functioning properly. There's a process to this so that you dont aerate the fluid either. Then check the rear brakes because they are likely out of adjustment which will result in the shoes having to move too far before contact which skews the proportioning valves ability to offer equal power distribution between the front and rear brakes. And no one probably bothered to match the new shoes to the new drum surface either which will prevent solid contact of those two components even further weakening the stopping power. Its easy to unknowingly botch up drum brake jobs...and when that happens the front disc brakes are forced to increase their load and are nowhere near powerful enough to support the stopping power of a 4 ton truck with likely oversized tires.

Except the free spin hub conversion will run someone approximately $2000... You could replace a lot of axle u-joints for that kinda cash.

I just tested my alternator the other day and connected to the alternator directly (not the batteries), at idle AC voltage was .024 With all electronic accessories turned on and engine ramped up to 2000 rpm, it climbed to .050 I'm happy with that...

Pictures...

Companies like PacBrake makes a 2 lo kit for those people who want something pre-built.

2 lo is one of the best things I've done to my truck. But...as others have stated, you must have the CAD front axle otherwise the 2 lo kits wont work. The CAD was discontinued in 2002 but some of those early build trucks were still equipped with them. And just to clarify, the CAD unit is on the longer passenger side of the front axle housing. You cant miss it either...

Its sounds more like he has money to burn and got his fill of the truck. It started having problems (from who knows why) and he didnt feel like dumping any more money. So...when opportunities knock you jump on it. I see nothing wrong with that... Now if the guy was mental or needed money for some sort of emergency then thats different.

I missed the part about transmission troubles...

I'm just trying to understand what 8 valver he's referring to at 2:15

$2000...??? There HAS to be more to this story.

This thread just got real...

But...you didnt answer.

I dont know of any place. I'd start with an internet search or check with a dealer.

I believe its part of the seat belt. If its broke or coming out of the seat then maybe you'll have to replace the belt assembly or find a way to glue/rig up a fix.

Has anyone learned if this is a CAD or non-CAD truck?

2000Ram2500, thats HOT and doesnt sound right for only pulling 10k... As I mentioned above, my house size triple axle toy hauler I drag around is heavy and big and I've towed it in 111* summer heat with the AC on full blast while pulling some long hills. Your transmission is either heating the engine up or your radiator is partially clogged or your clutch fan isnt working as good as it should...or a combination of all three.

You're in our prayers Mike and please keep the forum updated with how things are going... Moparmom needs you so you'll be fine.