cajflynn

I assume your current turbo is a hx35. The aurora 2000 is a slightly larger turbo. IMHO, you'd be better off with a super b turbo. The super b is ridiculous. Imagine all the midrange power you can stand with only a slightly slower spool up. Egt's are much lower when towing as well. Btw, your current turbo is way out of its map at 30lbs of boost. You're loosing power at that level.

Nice catch. Just goes to show the power of the forum.

I run a smarty jr and the edge cts for gauges. The single gauge in the a pillar is for my airbags.

Let me ask a dumb question. Do you add 1/2 gallon to your fuel total when figuring out your mileage? I have never been a big believer in 2 stroke oil. I might be wrong but my trucks made it pretty far without it. I always found fuel pressure to be a bigger factor in vp life than anything else. If a tank (34 gallons) of fuel cost $120 ish and you are adding $15 in 2 stroke to it, you have to get 10% better mileage just to break even. At least with walmart oil at $12 a gallon you only need to get a 3% increase to break even. For reference, a 1mpg increase on a 20mpg truck is a 5% increase. I really just don't see what the gain is.I am aware that some people believe the vp44 needs the added lubricity from the 2 stroke oil. It has not been my experience that my vp44's lasted longer with 2 stroke than without.

http://www.trnw.net/z-store/glaenzer.html Are you watching the tps value as the tcc is locking and unlocking? Is it steady? If so, it's not the apps.

You would buy a new alternator first? Why? This is such a common problem. Most people with a 24v and an auto trans get to it sooner or later. I fixed mine with a $20 line filter from BD. It is not a filter for the alternator either. http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/185P I posted a link with multiple fixes. It clearly states there isn't a one fix cure all. It also tells you how to build your own. That being said both of my 01's were fixed with the BD line filter. If it ever happens now it is because a battery terminal is loose or dirty. ATS has a rewire diagram to fix it also. All of this information is online. It won't take much digging to find it. Search for: 47re lock/unlock.

I'd also check blinker fluid, muffler bearings and the flux capacitor. I have always followed Mike's advice and run synthetic blinker fluid. You just don't get that many blinks out of non synthetic fluid. OEM muffler bearings are good for 100K miles. The flux capacitor either works or it doesn't. You'll know next time you go 88mph. If all that checks out you're ready to go! As always, all these things are availlable on line: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9&zenid=vmj0iq4lgedlc5ebosq6n8ru33

If you have an 01 you are experiencing a very common problem. The truck locks and unlocks at will. There is no consensus for how to fix this. There are a lot of things to try: Clean your battery cables and make sure their tight. New VP. New APPS. Put tin foil around one of the alternator wires. And the one I endorse is to add a line filter http://www.dttdiesel.com/product-p/kw5535.htm Also read this: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/electrical-q-47re-hunting-gears-t110002.html

What year is your truck? If it is newer than 04.5 then it sounds like the TVA (throttle valve actuator.) Dealer part but an easy fix. Get your wallet out.

You probably have a dirty fuel filter. Best mileage adder there is.

I thought you had to remove the fuel system relay to check fuel pressure at start up. The truck cycles 12v on and off at startup so you would not get an accurate reading. With the relay out, the voltage is not cycled and you would get an accurate measurement.

FCA?

Tow in OD. When you are going up a hill try turning off OD at 53mph which will make it downshift. Turn OD back on at the top of the hill. With OD off I try to keep a constant 50mph.

The resonator needs to be as far forward as possible to work properly. - - - Updated - - - The resonator needs to be as far forward as possible to work properly.

Maybe if you're a salmon. That pretty cold for a human.

There is no difference between the two.

Got me? Mine doesn't have that.

A super b is a s300g.

I was going to say "listening." Food is good at my house.

Fuel filter?Lift pump?Injection pump? I'd check things in that order.

Wait until you do the deletes. You'll get 3 or 4 more mpgs.

Did you check the relay? Codes? There are a lot of problems that can cause what you are describing. Most of the time it is a simple solenoid replacement or you need a rebuild. Sounds bad to me.

We should bury this before it goes any further.

Sounds like it is in limp mode. Do you have any codes? Are you sure it is shifting at all and not just stuck in third gear? Sounds like you need some new solenoids or maybe the relay is bad. Take the trans relay out and switch it with the horn relay. Honk the horn. Did it honk? If so, that relay is good. Next you have to change the solenoids. Take this time to upgrade the governor pressure solenoid as well. You want to find the Borg Warner governor pressure solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/42RE-44RE-46RE-47RE-48RE-HEAVY-DUTY-GOVERNOR-PRESSURE-SOLENOID-BORG-WARNER-a518-/130582959652 The transducer can remain OEM. If you do it yourself you will also need 10 quarts of atf+4.

I didn't know what you did. That was a grave error on my part. (sorry, I couldn't resist)