dually

Oem and me dont get along so i cant help you on that one.As far as the oil how long do you go before you change it? How hard do you work it?Do you let it idle long?How fond of your truck are you?Farm&fleet has valvoline premium blue 15/40.Thats all i use.It is around 10.00 a gal.Funny thing, a friend with a gas truck had changed his oil every 3000 miles for the first 100k miles.Then just added when low and it lasted another 100k miles.I hate to say you would be fine with the sam's oil.I just dont know.I do know you cant go wrong with the premium blue.

The smoke switch it is a bad idea re think it.The harley guys in jersey think loud pipes are cool.Now they have a law for that.And now my state has one.My bike is not stock but it is not loud by any stretch. The smoke switch will hinder this fun lovin sport.My state also has a smoke law.Maybe thanks to smoke switches,i dont know.I have my stuff turned down so it wont smoke.And it is still fun to drive.Look into a fms box you may like it.You can control the low end fuel.

Oh the old days.Nice tie on farmer Joe.I wonder why there isnt an off shoot of that.Maybe cant fix a good thing.There's got to be a story why it diddnt catch on.

What did you find ?

72 barracuda.Short mopar list for me.I was a teen.I figured i would be cool,so i hooked up a windshield washer sprayer to the rear tires with a 3 inch open exhaust.Ah..good times.

01 dodge dually. 07 harley street glide. 84 monty ss. 98 chevy (church van) 01 cavalier (wife's car)

Oh sorry,He diddnt say.I was just saying that a 62 or a 64 is a good turbo and that he could "just leave it on" A 64 can be a stand alone or used with twins.I agree with other posts here.Injectors can bring on the heat.Most injector sellers will ask what turbo you have.If we dont match our parts when building engines bad things can and will happen.

We need way more info on the truck.You are going to have problems if you just do injectors.Forget about bigger lines and tubes you wont gain.What are your goals ? Do a turbo first. If your long term is twins you can do a 62 or a 64 for now.Or just keep the 64 on.My hrvp pump will lope when it gets 70* or hotter outside,and thats with factory lines and tubes.

Drop the tank.It's not hard.Put a 2x6 in the middle of the tank straps.Put a floor jack under it.Snug the 2x6 to the tank.Remove the 2 bolts on the straps.Take a small prybar to the front strap to help get it out.Lower about 4 inches.Go under, remove the plastic ring on the tank and get it out of the way.It is possible to do this without removing the wires and return line.But it is better to remove them.The fuel return line is a booger to get off if you never did it before.The sending unit is tall,you will need to lower the tank.There is a point when lowering the tank that it will rear up because the fuel moving around.No big deal.If the straps fall off the truck it is ok.You need to look at the top of the tank.On it will be two hash marks on the tank. | | You need to line up the arrow on the sending unit in the center of the hash mark.Be careful when removing the sending unit it has a long bent float and the unit will have some fuel in it.Be carefull with the old one when removing it from the tank.Because you have to do it with the new one.My tank has been out a few times it just sounds hard.Wish i could help you do it to me it's a fun job.I sent you a pm.

You can get codes from key trick.The only codes you cannot pull is from the abs computer.The scan port is under the dash.If you put your hand on the 4x4 shifter and move your hand to the dash you will find it.Maybe you have bad fuel? It could have water in it.I would get a new fuel filter.What are your plans for the truck? A fass lift pump is better than the factory unit.A smarty is a cool thing to have you can adjust the ecm and read codes.Sometimes you can find a used smarty for 400.00.

Weston built mine.Chris helped me get in touch with him.If you lift the head 0.20 the factory style injector is out 0.20.Whats so hard to understand.Then if you cut 0.20 off the body of the injector it sits in the factory location.My injector guy is a pro.He doesent get them from a vendor he builds them him self.When i hooked up with him he asked many questions.I bet when you or others get injectors they just ask the year and make.Mine asked what lift my cam has,turbo,auto or stick,what kind of gears i run,tire size, and he also wanted to know not only if i spray nitrous he wanted to know what jet i use.He wanted to know what kind of a port&polish job was done on my head and if the intake was cut off etc.I have had off the shelf injectors.I have no problem with people who want to run them.There is some good ones out there.The reason i responded to this thread was to help.Southern diesel x is a good place to get injector help.

http://www.southerndieselx.com/ These guys build injectors.They can put new nozzels on and pop test them to be perfect.I had a buddy of these guys cut o.20 off the body of the injector to match up with my 0.20 12v head gasket thats on my 24v.They are one of the best in the usa.They do things to the injector that others will not take the time to do.Call them to get a quote.You will be happy.

Try to rub it out.A scotch bright pad should do it.Sometimes you can run the engine and open the line and close it again and it will fix the leak.If the tube is bad let me know.I can ask around.

If the line pressure from the fass is 25 or higher it pushes the diaphragm on the vp and it will start hard.20 is ok.some rebuilt vp's dont change the overflow valve.That will make a hard start also.My fass does this:Turn key no start,fass will run for 1 or 2 sec. start up fass runs.If i bump my starter ,fass will run for 1 min.

I just got a free jack as well.Did you know there is 2 places to look at the fluid? Mine has a big regular screw driver head in the base.And one plug on the pulp it self.The one on the pump is the one you want to put fluid in.Yours may just have air in it.My guess is you have a seal thats leaking.Jack up something and leave it for a hr or so and measure it when you start.The old jack i have will drop a few inches in 2 hrs.And it leaks ,does yours?Do you have a hydraulic dealer close to home?They may have a seal you need?

This is the old fix.Before i knew about the suncoast fix.

This is hard to discribe.But there is another wire fix on the apps.If it feels grain-ee at w.o.t. from a dead stop.And this is also linked to 4th gear hunt.It is the 3rs pin on the apps(LB/BK) to the k22 OR/DB wire on the pcm. This fix worked for a wile. Why just a wile i dont know.Then i did the suncoast fix. All better now

I did the suncoast fix.It worked for me.Always do the free things first.

Did you keep the old one?

The torque converter is a serviceable part.What i meen by that, my tranny guy cuts them apart and can fix whatever is wrong.But he is a high end builder shop.He has a tranny dyno as well. As far as your truck inside the trans is a sulanoid that does the lockup part .To me it sounds like it may be bad.I would check under your hood there is a relay for the trans.It is in the black box and is marked. try removing the copilot see what happens.

The speed sensor is on the body of the trans.Just above the pan drivers side.There is another one in the rear end.

wild and free, When i dragrace i build 10 to 20 lbs of boost and then spray nitrous all the way down the 1320.Thats why my tranny has a tripple disc converter and a billet input shaft.

Sounds like the prime is gone.On top of fuel tank the draw line can rust.I know it is mostly plastic but the connector to the hose is not.Next There is a check valve on the vp.It is next to the fuel line.Mine went bad it is 25.00 or so.Check everything on the lift pump.The last thing i can think of is o rings in the tubes and injectors.Other than that cam seneor comes to mind.Hope this helps. The sound may be the heater grid thats normal.

Thank you!:smile: