dually

Did you pack the spring with grease?I do just in case, i dont want it to pop off when i install it.

I will check it but the wire harness for the ecm and pcm are brand new. So is the ecm.2 new batterys,alt,injection pump,ecm,wire harnesses

0232, 219, 215, 1689 ,341 ,1690 ,370, 1693.Now this is an internmittent problem.It will run and drive fine for 50 miles.I can shut off truck and start it up again drive 20 miles everything is fine.Then it hits.Sometimes i just get ccd code and thats it.To me the codes are bogus.The truck runs and shifts fine.Everything in the truck works.

When i turn key to on the injection pump runs non stop, the tach will flutter, the fuel relay in the pdc will click,the fass fuel relay will click and the black relay in the cab will also click.What should i do? If i pull all the relays the tach will still bounce.After i remove the key the relay in the cab still clicks.What should i do? Sometimes i have no codes when it does this. If i start the truck when the tach is bouncing i can drive it and it runs fine.The engine light will be on and i can get 8 or so codes. I can clear all of them and it will be fine for a day or so. None of the 8 codes are real.The truck runs fine.shifts fine. It does this with 2 different pcm'sIt does this with 2 different ecm's What should i check ?thank you.

Thanks.

Michael, How do i get that sheet you posted on one of my threads about problems and steps to follow? Is that a download? My code reader just tells me what it is ,not how to follow steps to test and fix it.Thanks.

From what i am reading the fuel heater is not computer controlled.I dont have the factory fuel filter set up any more.I took it off a few years ago.I just have the wires.From the cummins manual to me it says the "sensor" turns on and off not the power wire.I could be wrong.Still checking.My fass is good.The test light will flicker at 3500 or so.The ecm thinks it is a run away. ---------- Post added at 06:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:23 AM ---------- The reason is when i race and just want to run in the upper rpm range the ecm cuts the juice to the wire.My cam and valve springs are good in the 4000 range.Most guys run the trigger wire from the fuse box.I wanted to have something that was hot during the starting as well.I would run a toggle switch but knowing me i would forget to flip it on.I guess i still have some reading to do.If i have time i will call Vulcan performance, thanks.Working 2 shifts.It stinks i have all the parts to fix my truck and get it back on the road just no time.

What i am looking to do is run my fass pump off the fuel heater wire.I hate when the ecm cuts the power to the fass when at high rpm.The fuel heater wire is hot only when key is on and wile starting.I dont know if the heater sensor turns on at a given temp or how it works.I am still working on it.I dont want to fry the relay.Any input on this?

In the first picture the 1st, 3rd, 5th have heavy black chunks of some kind of oil or dirt.Thats what i was seeing.Just clean them after you remove the o rings.Then oil the new oring and roll them on.I use a old tooth brush.Be carefull not to scar them at all when cleaning.Dont run a screw driver up and down on the tube to clean them.

You dont want any crud to fall inside.I diddnt brush mine.You sure do have some funky looking tubes.I am sure you know this, but you have to replace the rubber o ring on the tubes.I have a home made shopvac with a vacuum straw to get into small places.I would hate to tell you what to do and have something bad happen.On the other hand that crud on your tubes will prevent a good seal on the new ones if some of that funky junk is still in there.Whatever you do be smart about it.

I have the picture of the cummins engine.Next to the factory fuel filter it has two sets of wires out of the harness.One is the fuel heater and one is the water in fuel.Is the one that is the "thick" wire the fuel heater.It looks like 12 gauge wire?The clips look the same.My factory fuel filter is long gone and i have forgot whats what.Thanks. ---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 AM ---------- a fresh look this morning the clips are different.The fuel heater should be the 12 gauge wire.I cant see that 16 gauge doing big work like heating fuel.

I think i will send you a plane ticket to help do mine.

I would mark it and clock it the same.With the crank seal, replace that for sure.Now get one from cummins.They have a plastic ring that comes with it thats a install tool.The seal on the cover was kinda hard to install but i got through it.

If things get real bad let me know. I should have one if you need it.I will give it to you.Sorry to here what happened.What was he trying to do?

Do you mean cam sensor? I diddnt think 2000 had a crank sensor.The cam sensor is next to the vp pump.

300.00 to 400.00.Is my guess.

Yes sir !

When that happened to me (the light)It was a broken front wheel sensor.Front rotor was a booger to get off.Once replaced it took almost 100 miles for the computer to reset.Thats not normal from what others say.My smarty cant read abs computer or clear it.I went to the dealer they read it for me and told me front wheel sensor.I dont know if auto zone's reader can read abs.You could have crud in there from your 4x4 trip.I guess i would pressure wash it first.If you do remove rotor anti seize it in case you have to get in there again.EDIT: Sometimes the connections can get wet.They sometines have that green fuzz on them.I am talking under the hood next to hood hinge driver side.Good luck with the fix.

Your question depends on you. If you can stay happy with what the injectors can do.The 275's are fine.You will not regret getting injectors.If you can keep your old ones better yet.An extra set comes in handy.When and how big of a turbo are you thinking of ?

I think you have a dead short.Do you use your tilt wheel alot? Something is shorting out.I did see your volts go down with the heater grid.What happens when you go from park to 1st gear do it fast.Reverse to 1st fast.Then try it slow.It seems like drive hits the ecm shutoff wire.I would dig into the column.

You said "it does it with the chip on or off" Did you turn it off on the box or did you return the truck to stock by unpluging everything? I was having problems and was told to unplug everything wire tap included.

Source automotive will still warranty a tap on the pump.You know michael,I only had a few problems with my cover.I think it works well.The info i was given is some are smashing the circuit board.Surging or on off was another.Mine works!It is like anything some do some dont.I really dont know what i am going to do at this point.I just have to much time to think about it.The truck is down.I did get a good core sent out so thats step one.

The vp doesent have as much trouble cooling when the engine is running.The heat builds when the engine is shut off.

The vp is cooled by fuel.Someone is going to build a vp cooler.It should be out soon.I dont want to let the cat out of the bag.I will let him do that.He sells vp pumps and is thinking about doubling his warranty if you buy this at the time of a pump.He did share with me a way to build it with radio shack parts.We all can do this for just a few bucks.

When i had problems my overflow valve on the vp went bad.The pump was only 1 year old.It is only a few bucks.