dually

This speaks volumes.

Mine are at 10 and 20.I am with Mike on this one.I may change to 8 or 9 and15 to 18 but thats as far as i would feel safe with.

I have never met or talked to any guy or gal that torques head bolts like that(extra90*)Do what you want.To me it is the most inaccurate way to do such an important job.I have arp studs at 130, 57 lbs of boost no problem however i have a o- ringed head.

I did the driver side and no it is not hard.My buddy did the other side,i was doing other jobs like antiseizeing and gringing off rust.When i did the driverside i used his otc set.

When you put a new hg on it will crush.I ran it a few times up to temp with vary low boost.Then check your valve lash again.I had to retorque mine(head studs).Head bolts are like food in the refridge when in doubt throw it out.Follow the manual that RPM posted that extra 90* stuff is bunk.105 is 105.

The exhaust side is where it will help most.

On my 01 3500.I removed the pitman arm.Then pull out the first seal,It is just pressed in by hand no tools needed.Then dig the next seal out with a small screw driver.Now remove the snapring.Now put the nut and washer back on.Start the truck put a oil catch pan under truck move the wheel back-n forth fast a few times.Shut off truck.The seal and washer will be forced out but will not drop to the ground because you put the nut back on.Now you have all the parts in order that came out.Grease up the new seals and shaft install new seals.

the other side --- Update to the previous post... --- Update to the previous post... --- Update to the previous post... I used a jack stand but i also put pressure treated 6x6 under it just in case. I used a bungie cord to get the caliper out of the way. I took a rubber hose hooked it up to a shop vac and cleaned out the tube. I just used my hand around the opening,the important thing for me was to get the chunks of rust out.When Mike C put the axle in i didnt want the greased axle to pick up any chips.I put some on the end that sits on the seal. Use lots of anti seize. To get the clips that hold the u joint on i bump my air hammer on the ends it pops them out.You can also use a screw driver. Note on this side: my friend Mike C did most of the work on this side.I just turned the wheel as he put the tool in to press the bearing out.He had the u joint off the axle shaft in a flash.It took me longer to get the clips out than it took him to remove the joint.He does this for a living he is quick and good.

http://www.hubandbearingwarehouse.com/servlet/the-Dodge-cln-Ram/Categories On wednesday i will be doing the other side.I will try to post more pictures.

For what it is worth my 01 has a step cover.No need for kdp fix.

Mid 40's and my back hurts.:cry:My problem is my mind is in its 20's

Make sure the backs are working.maybe the proportional valve is goofed?

Did you order it yet? I have a 150/150 fass no problems.Quiet too.If other guys are having problems i would think about it.

Liveoak does have a good point.My fuel gauge read 1/4 tank and i ran out.The sending unit took a dump.If you turn the key on 3 times and leave it on the 3rd time what codes come out?If you have a 1693 you have more.You cant just have a 1693.

A few things come to mind,Did you flush heater core?I know you said the temp was normal.My truck did strange things when i had bad grounds.I would start checking.The one in front of driver side battery where 6 of them come together?When my ecm went south i had all sorts of "false" codes.I know the ecm can cut fuel at high rpm's.It also turns the lift pump on/off. Check fuel relay under the pdc.Also if you wanted to test the thing take the wires off the factory harness for the lift pump and run them to a toggle switch to the battery and take it for a ride.Before i would do that i would check the fuel relay and the grounds.

When i looked around for parts i found most of them come from china.Napa and autozone rotors china.I went with the 61.00 autozone rotors.Napa wheelbearings 320.00.Autozone 240.00.I went with Gmb 99.00 all 3 of them made in china.I spent 214.for the moog upper and lowers and the precision u joint. So for under 320.00 it is finished. I forgot to add 175 lbs of torque on the axle nut.210 lb tq on caliper bracket.The wheelbearing guy said this is why some fail sooner than later.He couldnt stress on how important the 175 is.That is for 01 3500 4x4.Yours may be different.

To remove wheel bearings you must first get to them.I left one tire on the ground the other i used a jack stand to get it off the ground.The rotor can be a major pain.I use a air hammer with a dime size bit and hammer around the lugs.Some times this works.If the rotors are trashed just beat them.You will crack them but if there trashed and you are going to replace them then it is no biggie.You need to remove the brake caliper and the bracket that holds it.Be careful not to bend the dust cover it is sandwitched between the wb and the housing.Use a bungie or a coat hanger to hold up the caliper out of the way. The axle nut should stay on.Remove the 4 bolts 1/2 way out that hold the wheel bearing.Get a helper(wife will do) Start the engine.Get a socket extention,(or you can buy the 60 dollar tool) i used a 4 incher turn the steering wheel slow until the tool hits the bolt head then turn the steering wheel until the bolt and tool hits the flange of the axle.Now give it a firm tug after it stops.What you are doing is using the power steering to press the wheel bearing out.Repete the same way for the other 3 bolts.Check the bolt depth make sure you dont press if the bolt bottomed out,turn it out more.The axle will come out with the wheel bearing.Now remove the cotter pin and nut. Clean the hole where the wheel bearing goes into.I used a green scotch bright pad. Now you need to use anti seize on the new wheelbearing.Use it on the face of the axle,and in the hole Now would be a good time to put ball joints and u joint. I replaced the rotor,wb,u-joint,upper and lower ball joints.

I like this however i think a turbo should be before adding fuel. If you have big injectors and the stock turbo cant get the air to them it will make high egt depending on the size you go with. When you say "build" how much hp is in the end goal? Vp trucks have hit 1000hp with nitrous.Most can do 600hp.

About how many miles do you have.I will have to do this some day.

Good show man.That a big boy.Not to many times a laypastor can get away with saying....... NICE RACK.

I am a total goof for them flyin machines. I run like a 7 year old that hears the ice cream truck whenever i hear choppers.Yesterday i was 12 feet up on scaffolding i set my stuff down and ran out the building:hyper: only to find out that a lawn mower reflected sound into this echo chamber of a factory i am working on.

Thanks for the tip.Auto zone had the same sale a few months back.I like that oil.

To adjust the tv cable have someone floor the truck.Then see if the cable is at full extention at the tranny.I am sure you know this.Just wanted to say it anyway.

Happy late birthday!!Thanks for a super cool place to hang out.You have really helped me keep the buggy going.40 is a milestone.Enjoy.

I do that too.