dually

So today i removed the flap door motor.It moves good.Then i moved the door all the way to hot reinstalled the motor with the power plug unpluged.It blows 115* at the floor, it was 40* here today.That sound normal?

What parts do i need when i take my dash out.I will replace the heater core and the condenser for the ac.What is the flapper door part?

That blows my mind.My friend has 360k but it is a f%#d.I had 2 of them when i was younger.The dealer bought one back, junk to me.Do you have a list if major repairs you did over the 930.My friend is on his 2nd tranny,one set glow plugs.Other than that just the normal wear items.

I may have to take the dash out.My down pipe must have a leak and the bummer part i can smell diesel exhaust in my cab now.It was never like that before i think the door or whatever is not working so well.:banghead:

So what door is bad on these trucks?

http://www.heatertreater.net/ So this may help me if the motor works.? I just looked and mine moves when i turn the heat to cold/hot.If it still moves all the way i dont know.Can someone tell me the normal travel on this motor?

Can i fix this without taking the dash out?

So maybe my flapper door is bad?? It moves from hot to cold maybe not all the way? Do i have to pull the dash for that?

And make sure it is not a 53 block.

Well i put a new t stat in and a water pump.I have heat.To me it could be better.This truck from day one never gets hot to the point you can drive with your coat off,Today it is 20*.It is way better than yesterday with no heat. When i feel the air down at the floor and turn the heat knob to full cold it changes to cold and when i turn it to full heat it gets warm so to me the flapper door is working.Is there a way i can see down there to see if the flapper is moving all the way?? Yes to your last question.Also the heater core hoses are both hot so it is not pluged.

Winter fuel blend? It kills my mpg.

Do the cummins brand of t stats have a fail safe?The question is when they go bad are they made to brake in the open position? My engine gets hot 190.The t stat housing is hot. The radiator fluid is cold.I am thinking water pump. The radiator and heater core were flushed in summer.

How does it start? Do you think a small amount air is making a miss?Did you check air dog return line?Hose clamps? On the flip side just because a part is new dont mean it works perfect.I have had new cam sensor bad.

Yup, jack nasty.They look like they came off a truck that sat in a junk yard for a few years. You should see the calipers.I will post pictures when i fix them.One hole is so warn out i put a pc of pipe in the hole to take up the slack and the slider pin fit in it.Just a getterby. New calipers should be here tuesday pm.

The e brake shoes ride on the inside of the rotor.That side was kinda frozen.I had to hit it a few times the 3rd hit poped off that chunk:stuned:.The other side came off without a fight,like butter.

I would like to add to moporman's 911 post.If you ever have frozen fuel get a quart of 911 and put some in the filter as well as the tank.That stuff really works.

The light went out on its own. 3 years ago when i had help doing the pass side front wheel speed sensor the guy said the light will go out by the time i roll out of his drive way (600 ft driveway) nothing doing! I had to put over 100 miles on and about 6 key starts. For some reason the same thing happened again.I had to put over 100 miles on and 6 or more key starts. The pulse is still there......:banghead: now last night i replaced the rear rotors. Thisone was stuck.The e brake held strong my b.f.h. was the boss. This one poped right off no problem didnt even have to hit it once. One caliper is shot.The mounting bolt is fine the caliper hole is rounded out.I didnot test drive it yet.As you can see the ware marks on both are real bad.I just need more cash to get new calipers. Update: Man this is nice.Pulse is gone, stops like new.Good call on the rears Terry C that was the problem. You know ,i really didnt think the rears could cause that much trouble.

I have done business with mumau diesel on more than one occasion.Jeff is a good guy to deal with.He will set you up.I have a 0.20 over and want to change it out for a factory 24v gasket.I had plans to hammer on it hard with nitrous.So i lowered the compression a point or so.It smokes good in the winter at start up and the bottom end is weaker a little.My plans changed with the amount of nitrous i will run.So i am going back to a factory 24v gasket.I would ask Jeff about the 0.20 and see what he has to say about it.If you have a mild dd my bet is he will want to sell you a factory 24v.His price should be around 110.00.+ shipping You could even check how much they took off your head to make it flat and with that info get the proper hg.

I had a real bad rear rotor a few years ago.The inner part was just gone.The only part left was the inner ribs.Funny you say the rear.I was looking at them when i did the front.They look bad i know i should do them.I really didnt think the rears do much.I will get on them and post the results.For some reason i am thinking it is the abs motor.

You should keep the 240's, extra injectors are handy to have.

Wheelbearings come with new sensors the rear is 6 months old.I am not going to rule them out however.

My lights are on and it pulses like a bad rotor.Can anyone tell me what to check.I had all this problem before i replaced the wheelbearings,rotors and ball-u-joints.When i am light on them around 30mph it seems ok, hit them hard the pedal pulses.I only have a smarty to check codes so i cant get into the abs computer.

I was told the first thanksgiving was the 2nd winter here.They came over in 1620 something,and the first winter killed almost 1/2 of them.The 2nd winter they thanked God.Is that true? Thats what i was told.

The 125 would be the safe bet.You keeping the 240's?

What are you going to be towing and how long will you do it 2000 miles or 10?