dually

Yes It is a gas 5.7.I have fuel,spark and compression(only100).It turns over just dont start.The story.I only run this for a ministry at church maybe 10 miles away.The last sunday i parked it it ran fine all day.Then no start one week later.I checked the rotor and the harmonic balancer.When the hb is at tdc(0) the # one spark is on # one.So to me the timing chain is set(It is new).I tryed starting fluid nothing.Replaced:ecm (not the prom chip),Timing chain,Plugs,rotor,cap,Fuel pressure regulator,distribitor spark modual(under cap)I have fuel in the tank.I can hear the pump kick in and run.

I have a 95 chevy van and it wont start.It is our church van.I dont want to get black flagged.I tryed everything i can think of and no dice.If asking this is somekind of internet fopa just delete this thread.I just figured someone here could help us.

First off....oh crap, Mike said that.Second off ,put 10 gal of fuel in that puppy!!! My truck ran me dry and the gauge read 1/4 tank.After you add fuel you can open the injection lines at the head and bump the starter a few times and crank it over to see if the lift pump is pushing fuel to the injection pump.

I was under the impression they are vin matched.When i had my ecm problems i had a friend give me his and it worked but set a code that i cant remember.He told me if they are not vin matched it will happen and it did..I ran it for a few weeks with no problem.I never tested the cc. I have the program number for the ecm if you want to compare.

Looks like the dog behind the fox has an eye on him.

Some head shops are dealing with this problem.Some stake them in,some are liquid welding them in then machine it.Did your friend damage the engine?Or did he get it in time.

Yes back flushing may help.If you do have to replace it.Replace the ac too.They go bad and leak.You dont want to pull the dash twice.I have lame heat myself.I have to pull my dash out in spring and fix both problems.As a long shot i replaced thermostat and waterpump same lame heat,oh yea i also played with the blender door and the recircle door.No deal, still lame heat.

I had a 94 v10 before this and i had the same thing i just opened the box and fixed it.The 01 box cant be fixed.I opened mine and it is a circuit board type.I did fill the sound hole with a hot glue gun to help deaden the stupid sound.

Rad box will put a hurt on a tranny or finish off a weak one.A rad box finished killing my first gen suncoast tranny.It was not a full race tranny but a 20lb boosted launch didnt help:lmao2:

The 602 is sometimes called the smarty code.It's fine if you have a smarty i get that too.

Here is the thread.http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2963-Wheel-bearings-4x4-3500 I was told to use a air hammer as well.I didnt work.It did destroy the head of the bolt.The bearing didnt move at all.I had to get new ones from the dealer.The guy that told me to use the air hammer said i would put the steering out of alinement if i used the bolt press method.He was wrong twice.I used the power steering to press both sides out.The truck drives the same.

It is a different dinger to a point..My door switch is disconnected.I have no dome light when i open the door and if my headlights are on i have no sound.Now when i turn my key i still have the ding sound.

The first time i removed mine i had to give it all i had to get it off.I am glad i was alone because i pulled so hard i farted accidently.

Thanks, i like this much better.I am vary new to computers.I seen Mike testing this color.I guess i missed the note about the page.Thanks again.

I was logged off due to my computer.When i tryed to log on the background was green.Now that i logged in it is back to blue.Whats the deal?

If i had the extra cash i would like to run another gauge in the line just to see the difference.

Sorry i dont have a link to the grounds.The ecm it self is grounded to the engine.So you could remove it and take sand paper or a wire brush to the 3 contact points .Under the ecm the harness has one.infront of the driver side battery about 6 of them come together.To the right of the pcm has one on the firewall.On the firewall in front of the abs has one.I know i am forgetting a bunch.

The 382 and 380 could be cleaned as you stated.The 215 may be a ground problem.:shrug:The230 could be a bad lift pump or a bad connection.:shrug:The 562 could be because the the truck sat so long and the alternator is bad or the wire on back is corroded.:shrug:The 216 could mean the ip is shot or more corrosion.Do all the free stuff first.(checking grounds and cleaning electricials)I will tell you i had bad grounds on my truck and it was a pain.

That was so cool.Thanks you dont see stuff like that often.

I guess after reading the post i am confused.What do you mean pressured up the tank?If it was me.I would put at least 10 gal of fuel in it.Then i would bump the starter and open the lines at the injection pump.I would do that until fuel reached the injection pump and gushes out.Then i would close them. Open all 6 at the injectors,i say all six because of the 2 years.Then crank the starter for 10 sec.Check for fuel at the injectors,If none, do it again and so on until fuel gets to the injectors.If you do this and you try to start it ten times or so and no fuel gets to the injectors you have a lift pump problem or a rotted line that is sucking air.If you do get fuel at some of the lines at the injectors close them off and keep going. edit,Your post says "someone" gave the kid the truck.I bet it had a problem the owner couldnt figure out.Or didn't want to deal with.The steel fitting on top of the tank could be rusted and sucking air.The return line on back of the head could be sucking air.The lift pump could be on it's way out.The injection pump could be shot.I would also check the water in fuel lever.Open it and see.Check the fuel filter as well.

Thanks guys, i didn't think of that.That would be a smart move, the last thing a shop wants is someone comming back.I bet they have the stuff that works...the first time.

Check the lbs rating for the stand.Standards are sometimes only 750 lbs and that is way to small.If it were me i would look at 2k lbs.The cummins is around one thousand lbs give or take.The backs are adjustable so if i read this correct there is not a "special cummins engine stand" Hope that helps.

Do you open it often ? Reason i am asking is mine will do the same thing this time of the year with the salt.I would shoot it with wd40 or something of that nature, then open and shut it about 50 times.

I just wanted to add a friend had a 80 ford gas with a 351w.He changed oil every 3000 for the first 100k.Then just added oil every time it was low for the next 100k.It lasted 205k total before the oil pressure was 5 lbs at idle.

That does move a little.I think it moves because all the gauges are on the same power draw.When you remove the load off the coolant gauge the power goes to the oil pressure. Could you tell us more about the switch and how it helps you?Thanks.