dually

My grandma is still alive.When she was a small girl she would go to the swamp to gather moss to stuff in the cracks of there log house to keep the cold air out, with a dirt floor.She cooked on a wood burning stove well into the 1950's.My mother was 15 years old before she used a bathroom indoors at her house.My ma had to get water out of a well then bring it into the house so grandma could build a fire in the stove to make coffee.Both my ma and grandma were kinda poor in the early years.But sure good people.One day in the 1940's a man came to our farm and said "i will work for food" They let him live in an out building for many years they called him shorty. My grandma use to say "we diddnt have 2 nickels to rub together" I am thankful for what little i have.I came from a family with little.We do have a big love so really i come from a vary well to do family. Good post thanks

I have a pcm and a ecm wire harness laying around, if you need to see them grounds i can post up a picture.It is my old crusty choped up one.The ecm it self should be cleaned as far as the mounting points to the block to insure a good ground.About 8 inches from the ecm in the wire harness has a ground strap.iirc it is close to the starter.

To me this has many levels of funny."Meat poncho" is right up there.Just to words you never seem to here together.

If you test the sensors and everything checks out it may be the ecm.I had 8 trouble codes and they were false because the sensors were all good.My buddy gave me his ecm and it ran fine.I had to get a ecm.Better make sure you need one because they are big bucks.Maybe a dealer reflash would fix it?

I was watching horsepower tv they went to some junk yard in tenn. and they have a nice program to remove engines with pride and they send them out.If you poke around on there web site you might find out what yard they used.

I looked and came up empty.I really wanted to post a link.That was so funny it should have been played on the superbowl.

I would look into a timbo apps.The grounds on these trucks are vary important.Did you look at the 6 grounds that come together in front of the battery drivers side? Look at the head light and go down from there.It is a bugger to get at mine was all rot.The factory spot welds this ground so if you put a wrench on the nut it may snap off.Thats what happened to me.I then bought a small battery ground from autozone and soldered them all together.As far as the cruise i think the column has a switch that goes bad maybe MM will chime in and will help more with this.What is the age of batterys and apps?

I dont think The tv cable and the tm are linked.I could be wrong.The way i see it is the ecm /pcm along with input from the vp pump work the tm.

Did any of you see the degree deodorant commercial that has 3 guys and they put on a meat ponchos then wolves run after them?:lmao::lmao:

First question Yes.2nd, The trannys fryed.3rd, i dont think so.Last statement yes it will change shift points.I have a manual valve body in my truck.I have a edge drag/smarty.My truck does not like 4 catcher.I dont like 8 catcher.We both seem to like 4 catcher.I play with tm on mine.When i am at the track the tm shuts off my fueling out of the hole.Even with the smarty.Now the list for mine is, speed limiter is 150.Tm is 6.Injection timing 3.Duration 3.I have a built tranny and wish my year diddnt have tm at all.I ran a rad box for a wile i hate it.It removed 100% of tm but killed the gauges that i need to race along with check engine light on.And you have to cut in the wire harness not a real big deal.I have a new harness now and it is factory with no splices.

Check the fittings on the lines are they loose?

To the op.I had the same problem.After trying a few things what i came up with was a home made can.It looks like the post#2.I took some exhaust pipe i had laying around 2 1/2 inch.I cut it 7 in long welded a lower cap and welded a nut.Then i put a o ring on a bolt.Thats the drain plug.Then i took more pipe and cut lines in it welded it to the first 7 inches.I tapered it up to put a berather on it.Drilled side holes in it for the factory breather tube.It really was free just took time.It was fun to build.This summer i want another one just a little different.Maybe a little longer?

http://www.country-supply.com/store/baldwin-filters/cat_15.html maybe these guys?

I am a power pig.The rv injectors are still fun.If your thinking of doing them i have to say there a good mod.You will enjoy them.They smoke a little if you try,they will help a little in mpg over stock.

Well the truck sat from the time i started this thread.Had a chance to put some more miles on.The grand total for the first 1/2 tank is 225.Again with winter fuel and 2 stroke.Overall i am happy with the rv injectors.A far cry form 7x12's in the power department.I could learn to be happy with this setup.I wish i could fun the rest of the tank out.Thanks everyone for the input.

Maybe the motor is bad,just plane wore out.Mine died 70+k miles.If you replace it do the white resistor too.I went elcheapo and had to wire it myself but it was no biggie.

For what it is worth i removed mine 4 times.I reused nut and locker thing every time.I also had the seal/gasket get mashed and i used permatex right stuff to help it seal again.The right stuff is a must have.I use it all over my truck with mo problems.I have it on my oil pan,front cover,hellmans sump,rear axle seals,sidedraft intake that sees 50 lbs of boost.etc.It costs big coin but as the younger kids say "it is the shiznit".

check valve in the system?

You know i came from the gas world and the sound of a big cam in a gas car lumpy lope sounds cool to me.I have yet to figure why most diesel dudes hate the lope sound.It will always sound cool to me.

I do not go off road.If i did i would think about some kind of plate/guard.I use to cut wood with my grandpops, sometimes trees will hit hard.I sure bet it could take a few good hits however you would have to think about the line as well.I used braded steel line for mine.

The gasket is around 100 bucks.We could talk you through the job.It is not hard just takes time.Mine went smooth.Step one is getting baggies and a marker.Just label everything and put it back in it's place.The head is over 100 lbs so a cherry picker is handy.A few beefy friends would also help.Turn your windshield wipers on and stop them with the key when they are all the way up.This will help you get the 5 and 6 push rods out of the cowl.Pop off the rubber grommets to get them out.You have a fuel return line on the back of the head.I have been through this and did mine solo.So you can to.I will admit i searched how to do it for a long time before i started.It went well.

Thanks guys.I was just wondering if this was normal.I removed the 7x12 injectors.I replaced them with 40 over's rv injectors.With the new smoke laws here and fuel cost it had to de done.I use to get 16 mpg with summer fuel and the 7x12's.I really would like to see near 20 with summer fuel.

I ran 200+ miles in one day.Combo city/hy. What are you guys seeing in the FIRST 1/2 tank of fuel.I am running winter fuel.I did have 2500 in the bed on one load and 1800 the second time.So do you think 200+ miles in 1/2 tank is normal?Thanks.

My pan came with a bung in it so thats where mine is.When i dragrace mine it gets real hot in the pan, hate to see how the line gets.It will stay around 150 most of the time.Now i here 30* over engine temp is when you should rethink the driving style:lmao2:

You know, i like it.It seems like it has been at least a year and no leaks.It will not freeze up as some were thinking.Sure helps the lift pump.Placement is important should be in the middle.