dually

You can remove the cover on the tranny (3. 8mm screws) and put a screwdriver in the teeth of the flex plate.Or put a rag on the flexplate and vicegrip it.I have also used two sockets in the harmonic balancer.Just work them against each other.

I went to the dealer.This dealership i go to is not typical.There a down home country place.I trust them. I did here some bad things about some replacement ecm stores.I diddnt want to take a chance.Plus i have been going to this dealer for more than 10 years for odds and ends. Mine came blank and needed to be programmed. I dont remember how much i paid.When i call them for a part i do compare the price with other places.I wish i could be more of a help to you.

I just put a battery groung on them all.I took all the insulation off and soldered them together.I did drill a hole for my new ground lead.

The edge plugs into the vp/map and the smarty only hits the ecm.You can only have one box for the timing.But you can use the extra fuel on both.The edge/smarty works good.The smarty is used with even numbers.My truck likes 6-smarty and 5x5 edgedrag

You would have to call them.The manual valve body is a hole different animal.I think mine was 750.00.Then you have to get a shifter of some sort.I went with a b&m ratchet.The factory arm on the truck will never hold up.It is not made for that. The converter ??It was a few years ago.Charlie is the man to talk to.I dont know snot about trannys.If you can do some of the work yourself i am sure he could build a conevrter and just sell you a new valve body. Maybe they can just mod your valve body?

Yup 606 is bad.On my 01 had a group of bad grounds in front of the battery drivers side.The stud that is spot welded to the body rotted.It was a real drag to repair but it worked.The reason i am saying this is this computer controlled truck really needs to have good grounds.Just for fun peel the ecm out of the truck and put a wire wheel to the mounting holes.I went over almost all my grounds to make sure. I had ecm problems too.170k and mine died.

http://www.autotransdesign.com/motorsports_ServiceCenter/turboDieselSpecialties.asp These guys rock.We have a cr in town that runs over 800 hp they built.This place built mine.They build there own converters.They can rebuild yours.They cut them open and work majic,or build a new one.They have a tranny dyno.They dont cost a arm and a leg.The work has a warranty,18 months if i remember correct.From mild to wild.I dont have a tc lock up switch.I do however punish mine from time to time.I went with a manual valve body in mine.Sometimes i shift at 3200 out of 1st and 2nd.I have downshifted and ran my engine up to 4000rpm.Still going strong. You dont have to go all out with this shop.They will only build you what you need. I drove my tranny over to this shop.I diddnt have to deal with shipping. Good luck on whoever you go with. If you do it your self you will need to spread the frame to get the crossmember back in.

In most circles people agree that 100 to 150 more hp is the limit for factory trannys.Now that all depends on how you drive to a point.If you have bigger injectors the box will hit harder.If it was me i would be nice to it with the box on.The tranny guy here is 3500 to 5 grand for billit input and all upgrades.His super tranny job will hold 800 hp.If you add a rad box forget it.If you add a tranny lock up switch forget it.Factory trannys will not put up with that stuff. I dont know your plans on how many beatings your going to give it.A single disc tq converter is week on hole shots.I killed a first gen suncoast tranny with a rad box.It had a single disc converter.As far as what could happen? I dont know but it is going to hurt:spend:

I replaced the tubes with brand new ones.(cummins)I diddnt know if they had clogged up.I ran them in the parts cleaner backwards so the funk wouldnt get forced in more.All of the o rings are new.

I needed to put the 7x12's on the shelf.I wanted to see if i could get better mpg.As well as help my new vp last a little longer.I traded some guy.He wanted my old hx40.I wanted his rv injectors.So he gave me some cash and the injectors,i gave hin the 40.I sent the injectors just to get freshened up.The guy at the injector shop told me they were crusty.He fixed them up and did whatever them guys do and sent them back. So i put them in.I had hard cold starting problems.Somehow air was getting into the system.I did find the return line needed to be tightened.Did that little to no change.Then i remember the injector guy saying something about (They should work themselves in)They did not seem to be doing so.So i added 1 qt 2s for 3/4 tank of diesel. I am happy to say the 2 stroke is helping my cold start up.Today it is just a tick away from being perfect. The extra lube in the fuel is helping the injectors seat and not bleed down

I took some rubber windshield washer hose and ran my nylon tube inside it.I did that under the hood.Mine is holding strong.I can hit 90+ oil pressure in the winter.

I dont know if you are going old school and using a copper line.I did at first.The problem i had was i picked up some noise from the engine and it came into the cab from the copper line.I removed it and ran the nylon.Plus someone told me copper and diesel dont match.That i am un sure of.

Put some gloves on and go under the truck.Try to twist the parts.If they have play or go side to side they may be bad.You could remove the stabilizer shock and try to compress it.If you can do that with ease it is shot.Jack up the truck and grab the front tire try to move it up and down and side to side.That would mean ball joints.Grab the front driveshaft ,can you move the u-jount? If you have play in it it is bad.

You can have 2 low with a vacuum modulator from a rice car.There 5 bucks or so at the junk yard.If you have a friend that race them he or she probably has a bunch.Thats the first thing they toss when they hop them up.You just have to put a toggle to turn them on.They plug into our ports.

As far as heads go.My old head had 11 cracks around one exhaust alone!!Plus maybe 15 more on the rest of the head.It ran fine and diddnt leak.I ran that head for years.However when i wanted to take my head to the next level i diddnt fix it i junked it.Now i have a brand new one that was worked over. I came across another head and sent it out to get checked for cracks and pressure tested.This head has about 4 small cracks.Thats no big deal.It is a good head. With pressed in seats you can have a good head.The shop can peen them over to help hold them in.The head i am running now has pressed in seats.I have had this engine to 4000 rpm and they diddnt drop yet. I sure hope the shop you go with works on diesels a bunch.Greg is just up the road from you He did my head work.I trust him 100% he can check it for cracks and pressure test it. Who ever you go with good luck on this project.I really think you will not find any head without some cracks.Cummins hardened the seats and thats the problem you cant get away from it.The best luck you could have is finding one that never had any programmer on it.Heat kills seats along with rpm.

I dont jog.If i did i would have pepper spray.You should get some.You could of died.Them dogs kill people every year.There built like the six million dollar man.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HofoK_QQxGc

Yes i will.It is only 15 per rotor by me. Thanks for the pad tip.I will look into that. It is funny how things work out.I fix trucks for friends on the side.This week i am on my 3rd brake job.next week it is my turn.

Thanks guys.I will search out what has been posted.Yes tryed napa,Like i said every one i called came out and told me all are china made.I will poke around and let you all know what i find.

That cant be real.

Some of mine had scratches.One i replaced it was nasty.So without seeing them my guess is normal.Just blow out the oil passages.

I need front rotors.Napa and buyright and auto zone all are about the same price.Problem is all are from china.I want factory replacements, nothing fancy. Any of you have good luck with china rotors? Oh crap i posted this in the wrong spot The rotors are for the 01 in my sig.

So what makes them go bad?

No,He should have not have to remove that for a boot change.We are talking about the elbo under the turbo going to the intercooler.Sometimes removing it makes boot changes easier.

As far as this dude i dont see his point of view.He should of just listened and did what the cop told him to do.Dont even get me started on how he disreguarded the bible in his actions and words.To me this pastor gave a bad example to the kids in the car.My pastor would not have acted that way.

Same here, i dont have part #. --- Update to the previous post... Hey ,it dont hurt to walk in the dealer and say "hey bud is that the best you can do on that part?" or "can you help me out a little i am kinda pinched for cash" Say it in a nice way.It works for me,everything has a markup.