Cowboy

If you're loosing power to everything, then it's likely the green w/black tracer wire has lost power. It is fed by the ignition switch, then goes through #9 fuse. The wires going up the steering column are also known for rubbing and causing issues. Here's a wiring diagram, it's for diagnosing the FSS, but it's all fed from the same wire.

If it was me, I would consider rebuilding it myself, I'm not sure how much more you would have to take it apart from what I had in that thread, but it really is a simple design, and rockauto.com has a rebuild kit for less then $20.

How's this? For a 12 valve but should be close. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/8792-vulcan-draw-straw-installation.html

This is on a 12 valve, but it's pretty much the same. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/1387641-power-steering-pump-explained.html Also http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1262601-how-remove-power-steering-box.html http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm

Here's a spreadsheet I made a while back to compare transmissions. But it should work to give you an idea of which rear end to run. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwLfM_IZci-hWnlZM1pZRUNFMEU/view?usp=sharing EDIT, Whoops kinda old thread.

This guy is pretty smart sounding, though he is obviously trying to sell stuff, so take it with a salt block. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/amsoil-twin-port-sales/230963-its-winter-anti-gel-explained.html

You use this chart and look up the amount to put in the tire. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/tirechartmap.htm For Me, both 245&265/75/16's get 5 oz.

The "Hub Cap" is built into the rim, and because the axle hubs are wider on the Dana's, you have clearance issues.

Encase this helps at all. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1262601-how-remove-power-steering-box.html

Yep, Old are 9/16". New are M14. Sorry, couldn't tell you the year when it changed.

This is a Quote from a guy on CF About 12 valve bolts.

The Problem's with the 18" rims. I've seen this asked a bunch, but no one ever posts the spacer size required. So I would think you best bet would be to do some measuring and see. Also, if you get them on there... PICS!!!

If the compressor oil seal is leaky, it will let oil into the intake which the engine will burn. If it's leaky enough, the engine will run away.

From personal experience I can say BB's work good. On one tire I patched it, took off a ~1.5 oz weight, and throw the BB's in, no imbalance. Due to the BB's larger size, they might be more resistant to those ridges inside the tire... might be worth mentioning to your friend if he's still having issues. The largest tire I've used them in is 265/75/16's.

I can't explain how they work, but thought this video was pretty interesting. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg&itct=CDsQpDAYASITCPiy5oKYv8ICFU_MywodTmAAN1IKZHluYSBiZWFkcw%3D%3D&hl=en&client=mv-google&gl=US If your patches are firmly pressed on around the edges, I can't see them being an issue. I've got a couple tires with BB's and Patches, no problems so far.

I would imagine the ceramic beads would be more abrasive, but BB's are bigger so maybe that would cause them to chew up the aluminium more, IDK. I have some in a aluminium yota tire, but it hasn't moved an inch from the day I installed it. One thing you can consider is plastic air soft BBs, that's what some off-roaders use cause they air up/deflate there tires so much it causes a lot of moisture, rusting the BB's. Though I did read of some guys having problems getting the right amount in, which I think is cause the plastic ones have a lot more volume for the same amount of weight. Right now I've been using zinc coated BB's, cause that's what I have on hand. But I'm thinking I'll buy copper coated ones because they're cheaper, and I can't imagine the zinc powder left in the tire is good to breathe. eBay used to have 6000 for $10.99, but now the cheapest I can find is $13.39, which takes the cost per tire (based off a 265/75/16) to $.92 Also meant to add; The copperhead BB's are 5.28 gains, which comes out to 83 BB's per Ounce. So a 265/75/16 would need 415 BB's.

Howdy Guys, First off I hope everyone has a wonderful day. Secondly, I thought I’d share some stuff with yall. I've been doing some monkeying with balancing my own tires. I’ve got a tire changer and do almost all my own tire changing. But if it’s for a truck then I still had to get it balanced. So I researched a product called “dyna beads” some of you may already know what they are. They are small ceramic beads that go in the tire and automatically balance the tire. I was considering them, cause the cost for one tire worth was cheaper then the cost to get one balanced. And tires apparently wear better with the beads (according to the forums). But that one side of me took over and I tried some BB’s. Your everyday steel .177 BB’s you can get at Walmart. They have been in different trucks now for a couple months, and no issues. After some research, the apparent problem with steel BB’s is the moisture in the tire will cause them to rust. So I did some tests. First, one of the trucks that has them sat for at least a month, and no issues. Second, I took some BB’s that were left out in the rain and rusted into a clump, and stuck them inside an atv tire, after a couple days (around 5 miles), I pulled them back off and they were perfectly polished. Here’s the chart to know how much to put in different size tires. If yours is a dually, then you have to use the motorhome chart… haha http://www.innovativebalancing.com/tirechartmap.htm So long story short, you can balance your own tires for $.75!

Worked on my steelies.

If you don't mind me asking, what store was this at? Out of all the stores I've been to, Napa has always been the best. Mine has plenty of guys at the counter, so always someone there to help, and always willing to help. Now when it comes to others... not really. Just recently, I went to Advance Auto. After searching for something for a couple minutes, I ask the (very grumpy) counter guy where I might find something, he didn't even look at me, and pointed in a very rough direction, that's it, didn't look, didn't talk... Still took me another 2 minutes to find there very small selection. Then went to Napa for the same thing, they didn't have any the size I needed in stock, but he gave me a list of all the ones he could order and would be there the next day (for a DIY type project, so I was flexible in the diameter/length I needed).

From http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/oil_filter.htm OP, I'm with 'Wild and Free' on this one. I wouldn't worry about it that much. Start it, let it idle for 10-20 seconds, If it's an auto, then put it in neutral for those 20 seconds. If it's a manual, put it in neutral and take your foot off the clutch.

If it's the same as a 12 valve. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-drivetrain-except-engine/532807-replace-auto-tranny-lines-hose.html My local Napa has all the fittings needed at a decent price.

I can't speak for the 24 valve wastegate, but I imagine it's pretty close to the 12 valves. Caution; All this info is from my 96. Full Travel is 28*, or .390" When the wastegate actuator IS NOT hooked up. Full Travel is 20*, or .272" When the wastegate actuator IS hooked up (32 psi (spring starts to bind)). It will go all the way to 22.8* (.315") but that's @ 60 psi. Stock starts to open @ 11 psi. At 20 psi, it is open .125" Here's a chart I made, this is the wastegate actuator not hooked up to anything, so it starts moving at low pressure. Blue is stock. Bottom is PSI, Side is tenths of an inch.

After a long time of trying to pinpoint ISX's location, I was finaly able to find him, and take a detailed analysis of his brain. And so I put it in PDF format for you guys. I will state, he is really organized up there, he even had it split up between the years. No seriously though, I would download those things soon, they may get taken down. If that happens let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Some dummy over on CumminsForum made a write-up, might be useful to someone. Fuel Shut off Solenoid (FSS) I do like the pictures in the 2nd post though...

The auto and manual PCMs should be the same, and I also believe that 96 and 97 are the same, 95-94 have a different plug setup.I got a 96 5spd CTD and a 97 auto V10 I'm going to swap the PCM here soon just for grins, Just got to get the 96 back together enough first lol. I had a problem like this where only half my guages worked and it wouldn't charge, problem was the mother-of-all-plugs under the dash that goes through the firewall has a bolt to hold it together. Well I missed tightening it all up so it wasn't plugged in all the way.