Hammer

Its located under the decorative valve cover and easy to swap. I was surprised at the cost,over $100 out here in PA.

Dave does not build transmissions anymore, he refers you to one of his installers.Sent From The Outer Limits

I am trying to figure out why you would not have contacted Peter@SBC once you had the failed unit out of the truck instead of putting in the Valair junk?.With how SBC stands behind their units a call to him would probably have righted the issue and cost you less than the new unit you bought from the second rate clutch company.

1-Nice choice. 2-make sure you do have it set so it allows the wastegate to open between 35-40psi with the HX35/HY35/WH1C.Anything above that is only hot air and does you no good at all. 3-Nice upgrade,but,really wasn't neccessary for a truck under 400hp.You could have saved some cash and just removed the cat and got a better flowing muffler. 4-A must have,however,it will be hard on the factory convertor and you may want to consider the trans as next. 1-Be a good consideration,however,no more than 16-16.5 degrees with a stock headgasket or the added timing will cause early failure of the headgasket. 2-EVERY 12v truck should at least have these installed to free up the rpm band.4k's should be considered if you plan on o-ringing the head,studding it and using a better gasket later. 3-For what your looking for I would consider trying to find a owner who has a 96-98 5psd truck and buying their 215hp injectors.It will give your truck a nice kick in the pants and still allow managable EGT;s.A little internet research will find you someone who is looking to sell their stock stick injectors..I would not put any larger aftermarket injectors in a truck with the stock turbo and the head not done. 4-Intake.....Hmmm,what a dog and pony show they are.They are more for underhood bling than performance as many of todays intake horns will do nothing more than lighten your wallet.UNLESS your looking for extreme power with a 12v(500hp-Up)your factory air horn will do the job you want and need done.The restriction many "chirp" abaout is the grid heater assembly and there is no HP gained by removing it at all. Now if you talking about intake air boxes thats a deal where you decide what you want for looks and buy it.Many have had great results with the BHAF and they will handle the power level you want easily and at a good cost. 5-I would not make any changes to the DV"s unless your planning on a turbo upgrade due to EGT issues. Keep in mind ANY additional fueling mods you make you NEED to address the air side also.Without making a change to the exhaust housing to manage the EGT's or going to a different turbo all the fueling mods in the world will do not a bit of good and only create high heat issues.IMO you need to uprgae the trans before going any further but its your wallet and not mine.........andy

12v Homemade Injector Puller..... -Cut a piece of PVC pipe OR Electrial Conduit Pipe just long enough to allow for the top threads of the injector to be utilized. Once you have done that slide the pipe down over the injector and use a FACTORY lug nut and a rachet/socket combo to remove the injectors.As you tighten down on the lugnut it will pull the 12v injector up and you will feel it release from the head. When reinstalling the injectors put some anti-sieze on the bodies and o-rings and make sure you place the ball on the injector body into the notch on the head.The reinstall the injector nut and retorque to 44ft lbs.

Like the wheels but do not like the Dodge Center caps on them.

What I do to flush mine out and have since the truck was bought by me is this.... I use a turkey baster and at each service I drain out the PS fluid resevoir with it.Then I fill the resevoir with new Amsoil PS fliud.The PS system is then kept from allowing moisture to contaminate it and causing the issues your having right now.It has worked flawlessly for me for over 200k and when its gets cold I have no issues with mine at all.As a matter of fact I still have the original factory steering box on my truck yet to this day and the truck now has over 220k on it......Andy

I am guessing that your never planning a aftermarket turbo install then...... Because if you like quiet then you'll never handlle the sweet sound of a S300 framed charger singing at full song........Andy

Ok..I am trying to figure out here what is wrong with hanging the AD outside the framerail and how the filter hang to low?.Every short bed I have seen done and mounted outside the frame rails hangs higher than the FASS I have with the larger filters and they are nowhere near as low as mine.His hangs lower than the transfer case skid plate which is alot lower than where it would have mounted on the frame. I am not a big fan of guys running alot of pressure in a 24v application as it will lead to early failure of the Vp just as low pressure will.Spring it or adjust it to between 18-20psi and leave it alone and you will be fine anything above 20 constant and your going to have the OFV fail and then your on the road to failure as it will never maintain the proper pressure.

I run a Stewart-Warner 100psi electric gauge with a remote sender that is mounted to the firewall under the hood.The pressure is taken right off of the port on the FASS and ran up to the remote sender and then its electric inside the cab.It is dead on and has never done anything wrong or quit working.I need the big psi as the FASS for my 12v runs at 50psi. Now there are many brands and many electric with remote senders to choose from.I'd say stick with a brand name and a style you like and you should be OK.I have a photo here somewhere of the remote mount we used to install the sender in and will post it when I find it for you.........Andy

Horton does not even make their fan assembly for the Dodge/Cummins truck anymore at all.They make a few of the parts but the complete assembly was dropped due to lack of sales along time ago. Racer Dan... I am not sure what the difference between the fans for hp would be if you could get the factory fan in full lock-up.I know this I seen a small gain in power(7hp)on the dyno with the Flex-A-Lites over the factory fan but without being able to have the factory fan in full lock-up HP gains or claim to them to me is all just hype.Flex-A-Lite claims 27hp but I am at a loss at how they came up with the number and have emailed them about with no reply. As for the powder coat and cost... I dropped the shroud off to have it done and the guy who runs the shop wants to do it in his Bright Red like the rest of the underhood parts he has done for me as he thinks it will really POP.So they will be done in red and his cost is reasonable for a part that comes in prepped already and it will only cost me $30 to have the shroud done.The clear powder coat is what we use on all of our sprint car wheels to aid with the dirt not sticking to the wheels when the car is raced.I have also done it to my Eagle Alloy's that are on my truck and all you need to do is rinse them off and the dirt comes right off and there is no more need to polish them at all and salt does not affect them at all..........Andy P.S.-Thanks for the compliment on the truck.

Here is a link to the install of my Flex-a-Lite 262's that we did back in 2007.They have been ever since and have worked flawlessly without any issues at all.I did not see a huge MPG difference like they claim nor did I gain alot of HP on the jet but neither was why I installed them.They were installed for a different look for that years show season and I have been very happy and impressed with them.Its in the winter months they actually shine the brighest as the warm up times go down significantly and makes driving in sub-zero temps alot nicer. IF I had it to do over again,and I will as I have a new set of the 262's here to reinstall,I will have the shroud powder coated instead of polished as its tough to keep nice for show season.The new set I have I took apart and have sent the shroud out to have clear powder coated so they will only need wiped off for shows.After winter I will swap them out and sell the old set as I am trying to pay more attention to detail for show season......Andy http://picasaweb.google.com/MDTDCTDR/FlexALiteFanInstallation#

I have seen no advantage to 2 stroke oil in my 12v's tank at all and it picked absolutely zero up for power in the dyno runs we did with it when the 2-stroke oil craze hit a year or so ago.The truck gets the same milage with or without the addition of 2-stroke oil and I have stopped using it all together. I had a chat with the gentleman who built my custom P-Pumps/injectors for my truck about the use of 2-stroke later after I quit using it and his response was to not use any at all.Told me that it was just another case of old school thoughts,like the transmission fluid injector cleaning ideas from back then,and that the use would of the oil would do more harm than good.I have never used it since and have had no issues at all......Andy

Russ....I actually have all 6 of the Lund panels and have tried all different combinations to see which worked the best and which one did not raise the intake air temps alot,thus the way you see the truck now.I also considered took into consideration what comes up off the road in the winter months and hits the truck front when I did the testing.If you would see a close up shot of the trucks panels you would get to see first hand how peppered the lower area gets from salt and cinders and all that crap can and will eventually block up a charge air cooler. I understand that you think that warm air in the winter is a good thing but any air thats too warm is not a good thing and you do need a balance of cold air to allow the truck to properly make efficent power.Yes your right, I have my ideas and they do work and have been watched with the aid of my data logger.I never remove the lower panel screens as they make little difference in the summer months and the little bit they do raise the air temps is worth the protection it provides the charge air cooler from road debris.......Andy

I am trying to figure out why you would run a 285/75 tire on a 10 wide wheel?.It way to much wheel width for the 285/75 and if you like that diameter then I would have run a 305/70 which would have given you the same height and a tire wide enough for a 10 wide wheel. Remember also that a wheel with not enough backspacing and most of its width outside the hub will stress the ball joints and cause them to fail prematurely from the added stress.Yes,they look good when you install the deeper dish wheel,but.,the weight of the front end of our trucks cause the added stress of the front end components.........Andy

The MITUSA pump is a very good pump for those who are into big performance and they must be used with a electric secondary pump in case the belt comes off for some reason. Most of the guys who I know run them are using a FASS or AirDog as a secondary system and to me that relates to just wasted money.HOWEVER,in a Dual CP3 pumped truck where max flow/pressure is needed the MITUSA pump is king and can not be beaten.I am not saying a big FASS or AirDog will not keep up but its tough to beat a rpm based fuel system when your spending most of your time at wide open throttle. With that said would I want one,nope. I have ran a FASS 150/200-1010@45psi now since early in 2007 and have had only one minor issue with it.I had the motor fail earlier this month and FASS stepped right up and sent me a replacement and it was an easy fix.The filters on my FASS had been changed only once since its install and they had 40k on them and when we cut them apart to look at them,they could have gone another 40k easily.If I was building a puller or drag truck then the MITUSA would be a good choice,but on a street truck I would not do it myself as there are better options out there..........Andy

In the Winter months I use the Lund Screen Fronts to help limit the amount of cold air going into the engine compartment of my truck.They are not complete block offs and have small slots in them as they were actually made for running in the Summer Months.I had them given to me by my son some years ago and when they were on in the Summer the truck runs way to warm as the slots are too small to allow enough air in when its hot outside. Instead I run them all Winter long in the lower bumper area over the factory fog lights and in the bottom panels of the grill assembly.I DO NOT completely enclose the front as I have seen how much it increases the intake air temps with my gauge and do not want that much hot air being fed into the motor.The more you block off the charge air cooler the more the intake air temps rise and depending on what your doing that could be a bad idea.So for that reason I leave the top 2 grill panels open all winter long and I do not have any issues at all and it wokrs the way I want it to. I will attach a photo from the other Winter when I came in from a trip to Quebec riding snow machines and had the ice hanging all over the truck.It was -25F up there and down into the Adirondacks and even when I got home it still was cold and snow covered........Andy P.S.-As you can see the areas where the Lund Screen fronts are at still are covered in ice and the top panels are open and allowing some air into the charge air cooler.

Instead of removing the fuel tank to fix it he could remove the bed if he has a way to lift it.Thats what we did with mine when we did the fix to it and when we installed the FASS system......Andy

I'd like to see a report from Blackstone Labs on his WallyWorld dino oil with that many miles on it. Bypass system or not,dino oil breaks down enough that it does need changed and is not meant for extended drain intervals. I am a firm believer in the use of synthetics if your going to run your oil in extended drain intervals.If your going to do normal interval maintence then a good dino oil will do everything you want.Anyone who runs a dino oil in extended intervals is just asking for trouble in my opinion. I run Schaeffer Oil's synthetic Supreme 7000 in my 12v and do not run extended intervals.I change mine at 6k anyway as I do not want to leave my oil in that long with the fueling my truck has.I send samples out every other oil change to ensure that nothing is in the oil that shows any type of excessive wear.......Andy

Why would Chris take .020 off of the body of an injector when a .020 over marine gasket was used?. Think about that for a minute....You saying that he removed .020 of the injector body and you added .020 of headgasket,thus moving the injector further out of the bowl.I'd be willing to bet money on him NOT doing anything like that at all.They may have removed .020 of the pintle or added .020 lift to them but cut the bodies of the injectors,I hardly think so as it would only defeat your purpose. MoparMan....Do you think the miss is injector related and if so does it ever go away as you run the truck up the rpm band?.Call Chris down at SDX and explain to him whats going on as I know he can take car of you and/or work on your injectors if needed. When you did the install on the injectors did you make sure to use some anti-sieze compound on the o-ring and bodies of the injectors and make sure they were installed correctly?.I know it sounds dumb but I have seen guys NOT get them properly seated or not use any lubricant when they forced them in and have issues due to the O-ring failing....Just a Thought.......Andy

I attached a PDF of the template and a shot of my original aluminum one I ad installed in my truck but do not see them.What did I do wrong as when I go to the user CP it shows me with two files loaded?. I sold the aluminum one after I had the stainless one made to replace it as I wanted more shine back then.They are easy to make and mine never rubbed the A/C lines when I used the factory mounting nuts which are in the bottom of the factory airbox.I ran a IAT sensor on the filter end as I wondered if it would draw any heat during the Summer months and found that it was a item that didn't affect the air going into the motor.I ran the IAT gauge with both the factory air box,the BHAF,a Scotty 2,AFE Stage 1 and the current setup I use the AFE Stage 2.I think the Scotty 2 would have been the best air intake for temps but I never really wanted to drill into my cowl for the air flow so i ended up selling it also.The best flowing unit I have seen for both temps and power is the AFE Stage 2 with the Mega-Cannon(or Inverted Top)filter as its worth 13hp to the ground over the AFE Stage 1 with a torque tube and the BHAF.I never ran it head to head with the Scotty 2 as it was gone before I had a chance to do my tests. I like the BHAF and for most of the average owners its a great filter that has alot of life and service.I would still run it but with my truck spending alot of time on the dyno I want every ounce I can get as it may just be enough to slide me past someone on numbers......Andy

I forgot that unless you were an old school TDR member you may not understand that.The guy who made the aluminum/stainless shields for the BHAF last name was Mallory.I have one in my storage shed as I took it off and do not use it at all any more. Anyway the template is now posted here you have to put it together with tape and have someone cut it out of whatever type of metal you choose to use.Then bend it at the proper lines and install the stud nuts in the bottom and attach your BHAF with a long zip tie around it to keep it in place.I will try to find a shot of it in my truck for you as I know I have one here somewhere. The Outerwears P/N for the Pre-Filter sock is WR3325-10(that would be for the red one) and it fits over the Fleetguard AH-19037.I will try and post a photo that all can see but the size of the shots allowed here are very small.........AndyBHAF Template.pdf

The Rv275's will not get you to 400hp,nor will the HX35 without major heat issues.I am in agreement that 400-450 is a good stout daily driver but you will need more injector and more charger to attain that goal safely........AndyP.S.-If you think that 400-450 on ice and snow is fun,try that feat with 600 and a 12v where you can only regulate it with the 4wd lever,LOL.

The 24v's are the same when it comes to grid heater time.IF anyone installs a Banks Twin Ram intake on their 12v it may take an extra cycle of the grids to get the truck to start as smoothly as it did when they had the factory intake horn on it.In the Twin Ram the grids are split one for each runner and it may mean a little more time to start when its really cold outside.......Andy

With my 12v I run 20 degrees of timing in it all year long,no matter what the temps are outside and have a big set of injectors.When it sits outside at work all night long unplugged I do what was shown here cycling the grids twice and then light her off.It will normally rip and snort a bit then clean out and purr while I am in turning my paperwork in from my trip and walk back out.I also watched my digital volt gauge(its a Cyberdyne) when the grids are cycling and the charging system drop down to 12 after the first cycle and then will dip from 12-14.2 until the grids kick out.My truck has Red Top Optima's in it and a 200amp Mean-Green Alternator to help ease the burden on the charging system somewhat.I have a set of Flex-A-Lite electric fans,A FASS 150/200-1010@45psi and a big stereo and installed the big alternator to ease the load on the electrical system.Since I did that and the Optima's I have had zero issues with my charging system and starting in the cold is a breeze.The one thing I am glad I did was the fans as in the Winter time it sure allows for the truck to warm up alot faster and when you drive it in the winter months they almost never run.......Andy