CTcummins24V

TCS input shaft came in today! I dropped everything at my local tranny shop...hopefully have her running by the end of the weekend! A lot of money for this small piece...the inner shaft walls seem to be thicker

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Thank you! Conservative Americans, you are not alone!

I did mighty diesel head bolts, they're about the same price or cheaper than stock cummins head bolts. For $130ish, just get new bolts either way. Studs are about $400.

New head bolts or studs with a new gasket...and probably some head work.

rust ate away at the u-bolts? or wear? or both?

As far as the lift pump goes, you might have contaminants/debris in the lines somewhere, I think they build up in the return line by some check valve/return valve(I forget the name of it). Read the thread dead pedal and hot weather.

Sounds like fun! Especially on your back! I ordered the TCS billet input shaft on Wednesday from DAP, hope it gets here soon. I'm going to have a local tranny shop pop it in for me, one less thing to go wrong. Hopefully be all back together next weekend and I'll do a little write up on it with some tips. FYI, the rubber was dry rotted on my vacuum hose harness that hooks up to the the transfer case, it was $32 from the dealer, it would be a good time to replace it with the tranny out.

Yup, unless you get lucky it's only a matter of time before the stock input breaks with your power level triple disc torque converter and exhaust brake. When I got my transmission rebuilt in January everyone tried to talk me into getting a billet input, but it was too much money at the time

It definitely helps. I put the vulcan vpmax brace on it helped tighten things up a little. I had already replaced every tie rod/drag link so my front end end was already pretty tight.

Are you running ATF+4? The guys at my shop used Amsoil but when I dropped my tranny and refilled it I just used NAPA ATF+4. I've read a lot of guys/tranny builders using dexron or something like that because it's not as "slippery".

Mine ended up being the negative/ground cable from the back of the alternator rubbing against the battery tray hold down (wire on metal contact). I just wrapped the wire with some fuel line and zip ties and haven't had a problem since.

That is the best case scenario for an input shaft breaking. I assume torque converter and pump are both good? That sounds like an awesome price for what got done.

Oooo I think you got lucky! Hopefully your new input should take another 200,000 miles of abuse!

I had mine rebuilt a couple months ago for $2200. That was with new u-joints in the drive shaft and rebalance too. All stock Dana parts, limited slip. These were dodge guys, father and son shop, who both have cummins. They said Dana parts were the best.

Replace APPS?

Still kickin! Let's see some of that beautiful Virginia landscape!

How's that 3rd gen track bar?

Currently, my truck is grounded as well and I'm saving up for a TCS 2 piece unit. TCS(the converter shop) out of Arizona. They are $650, made in USA, billet input 300m and the hub is a different metal or treated differently. They were recommended from a long time builder of torque converters/drag racer (Phil). The rationale behind the 2 piece is price(secondary at this point), and that the weak point will be the shaft to hub connection, so if there is too much power or abuse the splines will strip first and hopefully the shaft won't snap causing other destruction. From reading other forums, boosted launches, track time, and old age/high mileage and crazy power seem to be the factors that determine a billet input shaft's life span. So in our case, a quality billet input shaft should last forever...you're only as strong as the weakest link, so hopefully a triple disc, heavy duty flexplate and billet input should hold 800, 900, 1000 ft-lbs and more of torque for heavy towing and some fun.

Good, that's what I hoped...because I already red loc-tited and bolted up the new BD flexplate. It's at least twice as thick as the OE unit.

So a bolt backed out of the converter and got stuck in the transmission adapter case and broke part of it, I guess that explains the shards of metal that came out of the inspection port and not the flexplate. Should I worry structurally about this? I can't see this being a big issue or requiring a new adapter.

Call them again. Truck up in Michigan? Redline diesel out of Wooster, OH has a good reputation out here.

I love my tow mirrors. I had them on my 03 hemi, then when I sold that and got my cummins it had the normal mirrors and I felt half blind. Swapped them out for some koolvue tow mirrors and life is good again. I like having vision of cars next to me and my rear tires. The tow mirrors definitely have a bigger surface area for viewing.

Check for plugged/dirty radiator with oil from the crank case vent. After 200,000 miles and the stock set up, mine was caked with oil and dirt. A little engine degreaser and garden hose will clean it, that also requires ripping apart half the front end.