Killer223

i don't have those answers. sorry, when he showed it to me that's what he said.

Sorry i don't know much details. i know two different oil pans were mated together, a custom front gear case was milled to hold the VE pump. and it'll spin faster than most gas engines. that's really all he would tell me. it's going in a 4 door first gen. in front of a NV5600. he said the VE pump is a lot better at driving than the P pump. something about timing. has a second gen breather. i told him of the PVC mod i read about here. sorry for misleading. my bad.... he's building another that i wasn't aloud to take pics of, front case had 2 CP3's something about a 2000 HP engine for a race. speaking of races.Baja 1K starts tonight at midnight.

And we have a winner.

getting closer.

this is getting interesting.

that all you see wrong?

came across this little beauty. sure wouldn't mind having one of my own.

good deal.

i am serious, but what i'm not sure of is will they fit a 3rd gen truck, both of my trucks need rear bumpers.

i wonder if he'll cut me one, i'll weld it up here at home.

won't the computer defuel to lower the temps? Or is that only a CR thing? my truck will run a different fuel map for different coolant temps.

it does that to heat up the batteries.

i have to disagree Mike, the more cuts and gussets the stronger it should be. but it also makes for better change to be twisted when welding it together unless you have a jig to hold everything straight. lots of tac welds before stitching and finish welding. Are you going to incorporate any steps? how about backup lights? or D-ring attachments points?

Must be nice to be able to grow facial hair, i have to much Indian in my blood. Menominee tribe of the Algonquin nation.

Well i had a flywheel machined. RNR the trans AGAIN!!! and had the SB flywheel checked thinking maybe my micrometer could be off. well it wasn't. they had some damage on the Flywheel that i didn't really think anything of, it set a high spot of 20 thousandths, So then when they bored the pilot bearing hole it was at a angle of 20 thousandths off and off kilter and to one side by a few thousandths. So now i have my custom machined flywheel, my southbend okhd friction disk, and the new pressure plate they had sent. truck drives perfect again. and i don't have to worry about slipping the LUK clutch if i up the power. i'm happy, But now it's time to see what SB will do. if they still push back that nothing is wrong, i'll never use or recommend them to anyone.

UDC vs warp, you can delete emissions with warp, and can not with UDC.

Well everything "Looks" ok. until you start measuring. the machining for the pilot bearing is not centered. Can't go into to much detail yet, as i have already contact my CC company., but it's not correct, and if SB will replace this then i'll reverse the CC charge back, but right now i have to wait. Bearing is smooth but has resistance, likely it's fine, The issue is it drags on the input shaft, not letting the clutch freespin, it' keeps the input shaft turning, ergo making it hard to shift into gear at idle and as you can see from my video posted on the 21'st, impossible to get R without shutting truck off first.

Autocad or mechanical desktop? i sure don't miss those, i spent 2 years in MD, no thank you.

And the Saga continues, Talked with SB, they sent me a new pressure pate, Even though i think it's the pilot bearing issue, Well the new pressure plate did not solve the problem. still won't go into gear at idle, and the problems get's worse when it get's hot. So R&R again, put stock DMF LUK clutch back in, truck shifts like a dream again. SB is refusing to help me out. stating it's not an issue with their clutch. well. i don't see it that way. How come the factory LUK one works great? it's a different pilot bearing design. So i'ma have to make a call to my CC and do a charge back. i'm not paying 1200 for defective clutch. this is what pisses me off people. i'm now just shy of $2G in clutch and R&R to get my stock clutch back.

you can tune it with the raceme ultra and warp tuning software. I know my know my trans guy Fred Swanson, and from talking to him they have good success tuning them but sometimes the 4-5-6 shifts can be rather harsh, almost to the point of chirping the tires. i know he works closely with Calibrated addiction. i'd bet if you are nice to it, and played with the tunes, you could get it where you need it to be. download the warp software, it gives you demo files to play with, you can see for your self how much you can adjust. its crazy.

I really like it's functionality, but it's not very easy on the eyes. where the edge for gauges is nice to look at. the tuning software is much easier than the EFI live i was toying with. i know there are people here that can help you with tuning ideas, i like being able to control the fan lockup for AC, high idle options, cruse control options, all the tuning tables one can adjust are nice, really nice. SO i flash my tunes, then hook the Edge back up for gauges as it a lot better to look at, and i have a backup camera that uses my edge for a screen. i also like the fact i get 4 vin licenses, i can take this with me to my next truck.

the newer CR injectors are a lot better then the first iteration of them. i've seen several people on other forums well over 800K on them, and even more above 500K. the newer truck have the filtration needed as well. What seems to be the failure point now is the DEF injector clogging/crystallizing from lack of use. there have been several flashes to the computers to help address the old DEF i the system. as it does have a shelf life. Everyone seems to think these trucks get 20 mpg. i know my freeway/city driving i get 16. and running 75-80 on flat ground going to Texas best i got was 19.9. and an older one where i never drove over 70. mine is a 6.7 deleted with a "stock" power tune back in MAY, and the Texas trip was a raceme ultra tune of 7.

the newer DEF trucks are much better for the engine than the older DPF only ones. unless you are deleting, i'd get a DEF truck if i felt like spending the money. and with the way my 08 is treating me. it might be sooner than later.

here's a thought, should i fallow the manual and change at or around the 60K miles? or being that i changed to a gear oil not the ATF+4 push it out further? local trans shop suggest i change at 25K beings that i tow my 5'er with this truck. What got me into the Swepco oils is back in my auto cross days my grandpa told me of it. and most of the Porsche driver say it's one of the best you can use. it's great oil for the RX7 and RX8 gear boxes, the 202 in the dif's i started using them back in the 90's in my dirt bike and sprint car racing. i'll give my uncle a call and ask about the 202's use in the G56. i know it needs to be a GL-4.

while i wait for someone at SB to call or email me back... yeah not happy about that either... i noticed something, in the morning when the trans fluid is nice n cold thick like honey, it shifts great at a stop, idle, what have you. but after the trans has been driven 5 or so miles, it starts acting up. food for thought. anyhow i'm only at roughly 25K on this oil, but i'm going to swap to a different one yet again, might even mix some, i have 2 qts amsoil MTG, and 2.5 swepco 711, i'm look around this weekend for some mobile 50, if i'm unable to locate some i'll just get more amsoil form local Napa. it'll also be a good time to install my TDS pto cover to help in the cooling. then i might weld some fins on the other side away from the exhaust.