TFaoro

Dnoed 537 hp. Did not get the 75 spooled until late though, and I only got to do one run

If / when I change to a larger pump I'll be using the modified liberty module. Makes the install easy and provides plenty of fuel for the pump. It's also just like OEM so absolutely no worries about the 1/4 tank issues. That said I helped install a 150 on an 03 and the stock suction lines were too small. It was causing the pump to make weird sounds, so pumps that large may need larger than stock suction. I've also installed a sump with a draw straw on an 05 and it has zero issues

Thinking about it more I highly doubt it. In order for you to feel it from the driveshaft you'd have to have some speed. It would also increase and decrease at certain speeds as the shaft experiences different frequencies.

May or may not be, but the U joint itself should not have any differential movement.

That gives me hope!!

I think they are plastic..... So I put my new rims and tires on yesterday. The vibration is the exact same as it was before and at the exact speeds. This tells me it wasn't tires. So I've been thinking about when this started. TMK it was after having the repair work done on the body and fixing the rhino Lining. Then I remembered we got some overspray on the driveshaft but I didn't think anything of it. I think I'll yank the shaft out and see if I can clean all of the liner off.

If I had all of them I would....

No... those are under the hood LED's. It happened around 10:30pm on the highway. These are very thick boots. I haven't counted the plies but they are definitely thicker than the vulcan ones I have sitting in a box over here. Clamp was fine. I just cranked it down, hammered the hell out of it again and it didn't move!

New track bar bushing installed. No signs of even trying to death wobble Got the new gauge in tonight.... turns out I was making 60psi until BOOM

I don't... I had the machine shop purchase the rebuild kit so they could match the bores to the pistons.

The centramatics look nice, and would probably be the route I go (if I do anything). I don't have places put the tires on for me. I don't trust them after the last time I took it in and watched them work

Very low oil pressure will keep broke-in things alive. It's surprising how little pressure is actually needed to keep components alive. When you introduce a new part it needs more lubrication to keep the surfaces from touching. If the oil couldn't push past the assembly lube it could start running things dry.

@4500 rpm they require you to bore the block out and install bearings in all the journals, that's why I was asking. My assumption is you have an underlying lubrication issue somewhere down the line. Someone has a thread in here with a complete rebuild if you need any pics or ideas. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/9995-teardown-and-rebuild/?page=1

This is the first one I've actually broken. Smashed em plenty of times but this one I hit just right.

Lol broke it near the joint Saturday when I was removing the U joint. Swung a touch too hard

Were you turning high rpm? Weird failure place that I would say is not the cam's fault. Usually they fail at the tappets.

I had to get down to 5mph for it to stop Replaced this tonight. I took it to the last place it wobbled and didn't feel it even try to wobble. 1 down 1 to go!

Found the looseness. Bushing on the axle side of the track bar. I'll go pick one up at napa and see if that fixes at least the death wobble

Factory steel 17" rims off an 03 and 265 tires. Yes they're bigger than stock. No it shouldn't make a big difference given the stock size was 245. Something somewhere is worn out I just need to find it.

My full head job was $1,300 but that included hardened exhaust seats and an O ring job. I guess it depends on how bad yours is but I would say a grand would be a safe overshoot.

The lift shouldn't make a difference at cranking speed, but the timing should. I don't know what the time difference is for the intake valve closing

Mine is great when I let the grids kick in, but if I don't it starts rough. Heck sometimes it gives a hickup at 60* (no grids) and blows white smoke until some heat builds up. I'm not worried though. She always starts!

I shut them off with a fooler....

Must be nice. I'm going to put my winter tires and rims on to see if that stops the vibration. I'll have my room mate wiggle the steering wheel later to see what the heck is loose.

In your case I would do each cylinder separate and rotate the engine. Look at the intake rocker. Once the intake is closed rotate it a little ways further. This way each cylinder is on the compression stroke as you do it. More time consuming but there's no way you're going to mess it up.