Everything posted by TFaoro
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intercooler constant tension clamps
Moparman's 02 is the "late" 02 with a solid differential (no CAD) so his would be a good one to test the theory on. Then again could it have been only late model 02 HO trucks??
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Excessive rear tire wear
If you got out you wouldn't be so close to GWVR JUST KIDDING!! I see what you're saying, but my tires appear to be a bit softer. I was just saying that I have not seen ill effects of running them as high as they are. These tires have 30-40k on them and they're right around half tread Not bad for pulling trailers in the summer (When the motor is in it) and some "playing" with a lot of power.
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Excessive rear tire wear
I ran 80 in my Michelins for around 15K. Other than riding just a tad rough there was no sign of tire life depreciation. Now I just Leave the front and rear at 60. Never know when something heavy is going in the bed.
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Teardown and Rebuild
650 or so. I don't know if I'll make it with these exhaust housings though.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I don't know haha I've never owned another one of these. I made 50psi on a smarty only though
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Teardown and Rebuild
That's reading only the 75's boost pressure. New injectors are in! I saw 70 tonight after playing with the wastegate.....
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Teardown and Rebuild
7x.013 Sac!! Which equate to 300hp over.
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Twin Turbo Setup
My signature is now up to date. I've got a 62/65/12 over a 75/83/1.1 My brother has a 62/65/14 over a 75/96/1.32. The large housing works on his because of how much harder CR's can drive turbos. His setup made 724hp with my tuning. So I'm definitely NOT the most experienced with twins, but I have done some playing with them!
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Twin Turbo Setup
I'm making 62psi on a set of 125's. I know it's a bit apples to oranges, but I would "guess" you'd be around your goal of 50psi with the setup correctly tuned and a programmer set to kill. I'd also check pricing on the two. If the 75 is just a bit more expensive why not have the extra air? Spool characteristics are more determined by the turbine than the compressor wheel anyway.
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Twin Turbo Setup
Hey to some of us spending that much makes sense! I think you'll hate the lag of the s475/96/1.32 with the hx35. They just do not match each other well. I had a buddy try it and all he succeeded in doing was making high egts with a laggy primary. He ended up selling the kit and buying a source automotive kit. That said what kind of power are you looking for? I see you said you tow, but are you planning on racing at all? The s472 should support high 5's to low 6's easily, so if your power goals are in that range that's where I'd go. If you're skeptical of the amount of air the 72 will move you can step up to a 75, but I would keep the tight housing and small wheel to match the hx35 nicely. I can't speak to modding the wastegate. Honestly I forgot what they look like.....
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Teardown and Rebuild
I'm done searching. If something blows up I guess I'll find it! One last video before the big injectors go in
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Super B Update
Sac flows a bit more and makes a bit more power. Many say they are dirtier, but that wasn't my experience. My 125 sacs are cleaner than 90hp vcos
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Teardown and Rebuild
Oops... Honestly I have no idea. Still does it a bit now and then. Probably something with the dang VP
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Teardown and Rebuild
7x0.013 sac are on the way. Let's see how much fuel this thing can handle
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Super B Update
Not sure what your elevation is but with a 62 and 125's I could wrap my 1600* gauge over into the 1700 range.
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Cowboys Head Porting Endeavor
So the white paint.... Personally I'd be a little scared of the paint chipping and peeling then going down and getting stuck in a valve. Are you confident it'll never peel?
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So what do yall' like to do besides work on trucks?
What do you do for wok? Driving is more fun... but I firmly believe my truck hates me.
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So what do yall' like to do besides work on trucks?
In order of what I do the most: *School *Work *Work on truck That's about my life until I'm free from school!
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Super B Update
I didn't see you had an edge... Personally I wouldn't stack them. I know others will disagree, but I think the stack sucks. For me it was very hot and smokey.
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Super B Update
I would go with a smarty as well. They provide good smooth power. Here's a graph I have where the smarty is the lower curve for torque and HP. If the dyno was loaded the power would have come in sooner, like it does on the street. So if you imagine the curve being shifted back that's how it should really look.
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Oil pressure gauge
Everyone who can fool the coolant temp watches this happen. Dummy gauge. To the OP, if the sensor is in fact a pressure transducer and you could find the voltage range, in theory you could set up a system to read the pressure and display it in psi. I have done this in labs, but I don't think it's worth it in this application. If you are worried you should just pick up a mechanical gauge
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VP44 No start issue
@Mopar1973Man would you like to jump in here and see if you can provide some feedback? I'm not so good with the wiring side of things.
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Cowboys Head Porting Endeavor
You are lapping after the valve grind, correct?
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Oil pressure gauge
Guys, it's a dummy gauge. Proven fact from Mike's video. There is nothing to dispute about that. The gauge is not 100% controlled through the sensor. Yes the gauge goes up when you rev it up, and yes the gauge reads higher when it's cold but all of that is programmed into the truck. There was a long discussion about this over on CF and many agree it was likely done to prevent people from thinking they have low oil pressure just because the gauge is on the lower side of the pressure sweep.
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VP44 No start issue
I agree with the above. You need to get a better lift pump that supplies more volume at a higher pressure. That said it should still start if you're positive you have pressure to the pump. This is directly from Blue Chip's site. HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!. Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case. So pin #7 (Bottom closest to the engine) HOT Pin #6 (Top closest to the engine) NEGATIVE