TFaoro

I haven't heard much good about borgenson.... redhead seems like the better option to me???

Okay first you just made my night!! Second... I've never seen a block heater itself go bad (I'm sure they do just no personal experience) but I've seen a lot of cords rubbed to the wires

Can't forget about the cam too.... The tst fuel harder sooner, but level 3 and level 9 on the tst feel no different, so I wouldn't say that changed too much. My school's race club is supposed to be doing a dyno day in the next couple weeks! They are making me go last though... last time they think I was the one who broke the dyno

We've all got our preferences... I've got 2 safety chain hooks, the turnover ball arm has to be bent back straight so it'll slide through the hole, in-bed gooseneck wiring has to be unplugged, filler neck is a pita, 6 bed bolts, and you ALWAYS risk scratching paint when removing the bed. For me 1 floor jack, 2 straps, 1 wiring plug, and a couple fuel lines is much easier.

I checked all of the pushrods to see if they were bent...(Have you done that?) so they were already out. Just means you don't have to turn the engine over when you go to the next hole. It also seems a little safer than putting things down in the injector hole, and gives you a good excuse to adjust em up.

No doubt about that. Anyone want to send me a set of injectors??

Looks good mike! Have you considered just keeping PH levels good and not changing the coolant? Been doing that in our tractors and never had an issue. No build up or pitting on the sleeves. My dad's 12v still has the factory coolant and looks clean as a whistle at 150k.

It made 500 before twins... I sure hope it's burning more of that fuel and making more power than it was. It was pouring black smoke even when spooled on the single.

Compression without fuel is just above 400psi, or somewhere in there. If you have a bad enough issue I think it'll show up in the compression test. When I did a leakdown I removed all the rockers (makes sure all valves are closed and sealed). You should be able to hear air coming through the intake , exhaust, or crankcase.

Got the tires balanced yesterday!! Hopefully that'll stop the death wobble at 90 Just have to wait and see I guess!

Opened the boost elbow 3/4 of a turn this morning. Primary was pushing 30psi but not sure about overall thanks to the POS gauge in there. Also gave her a wash last night.

You should be able to see if something is immediately wrong with the head.... I'm assuming you're going to have it at least decked anyway right? You could have the machine shop go through the head while they have it. What makes you think you have an issue in the first place? Just the blowby?

No.... machining and rebuild kit 3k Other hard parts around 2400 (cam, tappets, pushrods, springs, oil cooler, oil pump, billet piston cooling jest, and probably more). It should help already having the top end parts but to be safe I'd still say a safe number is 6k. I can open the elbow and see what it does, but I'm betting the gate is wide open from drive pressure already. For fueling I've got a smarty, TST comp, DAP 125's and a SO VP. Higher tst numbers just give me higher egts. The boost is staying the same.

Cut a big enough hole in the rubber Got mine in... works as it should. Just have to make the mount now.

Everything before the twins engine wise, a cheap trans rebuild kit, fluids, paint, etc And another gauge is in

Most of it... Nick can attest to that yesterday. I've still got fuel leaking from the #3 line where it connects to the crossover tube, so it's got just a bit of a tick to it. A cummins ISB book. No and no. I can't even get over 3500rpm so I wasn't too worried about it. 425's Head was 1300 bucks, rebuild kit was just over a grand, and having the block was around 700 I left the harness off. I also changed the mounting locations of it. I'd leave it off to go back in. The install is pretty easy with two guys. Just make sure you lift the engine far enough forward that it leans backwards. Thank you! Um.... make sure you have the money going in. I think when it was all done I'm over 6k into it. Got the gauge in last night. I'm a little pissed off though. Spent 80 bucks on a 100psi gauge and it's bad. It sticks at 40 unless you hold it at 55psi for a few seconds. Then it'll slam over to 60 then back to 55. O well... I'll get it straightened out this week. I currently have the boost elbow completely closed off and I'm seeing 20 from the primary and 55 over all. This tells me the drive pressure is pushing the gate open. Also, I was playing with the tst and I'm seeing 55psi whether the tst is on 9, 7, or even level 3. The power feels the same and the boost is exactly the same. Is this because of the small injectors??

I just replaced my actuator... I mean it lasted this many years right? The posi lock would be cool for reversing with trailers though. You'd effectively have a 2-low. I'm the opposite of Mike on this one. It's really nice when you have a short trailer (snowmobile) to back up slowly. On the other side if you're backing a monster gooseneck into a tight spot it's nice to be going slow. JMHO

Every truck I have ever seen came with a block heater.... If not hopefully you can find a good dealer! Nick you have a PM

Is your clutch slipping? (RPMs go up while speed doesn't change, or speed barely goes up) With that many miles it's entirely possible the factory injectors are getting tired. Mine changed night and day after 180k on stock injectors. Can you see oil coming through the slot in the bell housing? If yes, the trans need pulled and the rear man replaced asap. While you're in there you can see if the clutch needs replacing.

Went on a posting rampage there Mike haha! You're right though. My dad's 96 12v isn't much over stock and it hasn't had a single thing break in 150k (that was caused from power.) He fixed the 5th gear with a full splined mainshaft and replaced a couple fuel lines. It didn't move for the first 90k unless it was hooked up to the 25ft gooseneck stock trailer.

I couldn't agree more. That's why I don't even look at the TST when towing. Last time it dynoed 372 / 830 on the smarty only. That's been more than enough power to pull anything I hook up to and not kill the drivetrain. I do enjoy having a lot of power DDing though. I don't use it often, but when I do it moves quick I've got the 100psi gauge in my room, but I'm still waiting for the steering column pod to show up!

I'm going for the cubby. I'll have to cut my own piece out of plastic or something..... Laser should work pretty well...

100psi boost gauge and steering column pod are on the way. Hopefully installing this weekend. I should also be picking up my high idle switch from Nick friday. Excited to have one again! Found out my secondary is likely opening WAY too early... not sure how I'll adjust the arm up here.

Nope. Good thing it happened there and not on the road!

That was the old switch, which was produced by someone else. It was not through this site. These are a different, more stout design made my Nick and sold through this site. The new ones are in no way affiliated with the old ones.