TFaoro

You could always do what my brother did... Bough a sump with a drawstraw. To me that's a pretty ideal setup! You talking turbos now????

Sumps are easy. I don't like draw straws. That's just me though.

Yup. You can even get it with bigger suction lines if need be. I'm a tank removal guy myself. Drive it until it's pretty much empty hop underneath it and remove the 2 straps. Others like to pull the bed, but that always runs the risk of scratching it and I'm very protective of my paint!

Personally I'm not a fan.... but it is function and sometimes that's all that matters Nice house btw!

I'll be losing 3 gallons of full synthetic and have to figure how the F to get the pan out with the motor in.... ah hell might as well pull the whole thing out again!!!!!

CRAP!!!!!! At least I have a lift to work on now. It's dry as a bone on the inside of the bell housing.

Welcome! Sounds like a bad connection going to the lift pump... Your pictures don't seem to be working though. Maybe @Mopar1973Man can help with the pictures.

No, you can see where it originates from just below the starter area. No I didn't use any sealant. I'm going to be pissed if I have to drip this pan I've got some daylight now so it'll be easier to see back in there. Even with the paint it's actually pretty easy to see most places Here's the pics again so people don't have to flip back and forth.

Someone please help my find this oil leak. It's literally driving me INSANE!!!! Driver side where the outside edge of the block meets the bell housing adapter. I know it's not coming from the top end as everything dry above the bottom of the block. The pan gasket looks sealed as well so I'm at a loss.

So.... the vulcan module replaces everything int the tank. There's no need to drill holes or do any modification if you go with a fass and a new liberty module. The fass also comes with 1/2 inch lines. No need to worry about ordering those. I'll stay out of the suspension talk... I've got enough issues there myself

The liberty module is just the basket with suction and return lines all plumbed in. I could be wrong, but I think you'd have to have an electric pump wired in series with the mechanical pump to prime the system before starting. Whether that can be done with the in-tank pump or not, I'm not sure.

SWEEEET!!! As for fuel, it's located on the block from the factory. Since the IP was replaced by the dealer you now likely have the in-tank pump. I'm not familiar with the mechanical pumps, but personally I shy away from them. Fass has a perfectly reliable electric pump and they are simpler in my eyes. Either way, usually new pumps come with new fuel lines. Run 1/2 inch and be like the cool kids haha! The liberty module makes it much easier to plumb the new pump in. No dealing with the in-tank pump or installing a draw straw.

sure makes it hard to tune twins without adjustment though! I bet money my DP would be over a hundred with one of those elbows. Does anyone know if they make a barbed needle valve?

Thanks for the response! I think I should have specified better in my first post though... I'm having trouble with the little adjustment screw wanting to tighten up on me, not the whole elbow itself. Sorry about that

Too cheap for a new one I spent all of my money again! I was thinking a dab of loctite on the outside of the threads. Doesn't work so well when you're constantly changing things though. Staking?? The last one might be the best route for me. There is a company that makes one but I can't remember the name. I would worry about the delay from all the piping though.

My boost elbow threads are loose enough it's tightening up while I drive.... I went to do some testing and saw the drive pressure spike to over 110psi. Needless to say I'd like to make sure it stays in place! Ideas? I've got a couple of my own but I'd like to hear you guys' first.

CR swap http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/04-5-07-3rd-gen-all-products/1925226-2003-2007-cummins-long-block.html

You're making it really hard to derail a thread! I believe my parent's pop-up camper is the same way. All interior lights are 12V.

School starts the 23rd and I'd have a 910 mile trip back

That's a heck of a drive....

I guess I'll be sleeping under my topper with my feet hanging out When's this party goin down!?

I'll try to remember the next time I head home. Are you in a rush for them?

How about tree fiddy! You can have them. I have no use.

I've got bed mounts sitting at home. I removed them and welded up the holes, so they're just collecting dust.

I've got raptor liner. It can be colored with OEM paint as well.