TFaoro

Wade convince you to do that?? Personally I've never liked them. Loud, gets smoke all over the back of the truck, etc. Did you have a stock system? I've never had good luck with that. hopefully he will. When I bought a new tip, my tailpipe was too short. I just welded in a new chunk and painted it with high temp paint. No issues yet.

No ATF. I believe it's Valvoline PS fluid. Not 100% on the brand though. Tires are slightly larger than stock, but not enough to affect anything. (265/70/17) Where would the restriction be if it all components hooked to it work properly? I know the steering box is getting old and worn though. I see your point that it should be fine without, but they had to put one on the 3rd gens for a reason.....

Thanks for the link! I was seriously considering the factory automatic trans cooler. I know it's WAY overkill, but it sure would mount easy and look clean. But everything works properly until the fluid is burned... Just conventional oil.

Should be able to tell by just removing the clamp

Most aftermarket turbos have an hx40 so take that fwiw

So as some of you know I've been through 4 or so power steering pumps (All napa warrantied) The pumps work fine for about a month or so until it starts to moan a bit. I don't have any issues with steering (same effort as before) brakes work very well too, so I don't think there's a restriction anywhere in the lines. I can tell you my hydroboost pressure lines are on fire though (not sure about steering box line.) They'll literally burn you after running for 30 min or more. After about a month the fluid starts to smell very burned and the moaning starts. I'm wondering if a cooler like the 3rd gen trucks have might up the capacity and keep all of the fluid cooler. Maybe if the oil isn't being overheated it won't moan after a month of use. For those wondering I've flushed the system with at least 3-4 quarts every time I've changed the pump.

Can you remove the clamp and take a picture? The flange could be like the 3rd gen style too.

4wd shifter or transmission? This is what mine was doing without traction bars. There was just so much torque on the axle it was shoving the driveshaft forward, and there was enough pressure on the splines it didn't want to slip, so it shoved the Tcase upward.

I guess I'm not sure how you see the motor moving while you drive Just messing. Anyway, with how long the stock ones have lasted, I would go back with the stock ones. That's just me though.

Surprisingly, after 188K my motor mounts looked perfect. Literally didn't look like the rubber was dry rotting or cracking at all. It had seen quite a bit of power through it as well. Trans mount was the same thing. How can you tell there's movement?

All the places in Denver go off of corrected numbers. Even the dyno inside ATS used them... not saying they're right, just saying that's what everyone is using. 540 seems extremely low for this setup. I need to get it back on one of the other dynos I've been on. This was a mobile dyno that I don't really trust.

Yup. I used the gas line we have on the snowmobiles for all of those connectors.

Yes. They were uncorrected numbers though, and at altitude that kills the #'s. I was told the CF was 1.24, so that would put it at 669.6/1438.4

I'll try to shoot a video of mine the next time I drive it. It's got 10k miles on it and steams out the pipe like you're talking. I wouldn't be worried unless you're seeing any other issues.

Negative... we can talk when you get here though.

The idle pressure does not have me worried a bit. The real question is how far does it drop when you're on the throttle driving.

I've got the leveling kit with the Luke's link. The axle is noticeably toward the driver side. How much?? Not sure. Does it work? Yes, but I would recommend an adjustable bar. If I had the $$ right now I'd have a DOR track bar to center the axle better.

Sure if it was plugging at the gauge I'd say you guys are right. It's not though.

1/8in plugged twice... The first time I had to straighten the tube and shove a wire through it. Now it'll just plug the gauge

So the tubing allows the exhaust to cool before entering the plastic tube and running into the gauge. The smaller tube probably worked as a damper as well, but this big one won't as well. I bought a chunk of 10' from Ace Hardware for $10 and didn't have anything to cut it. Too much length doesn't hurt, but too short will ruin the plastic tube. I do need to find a filtering system for this thing though.

Yes. It's the gasket between the spacer and the manifold. I'm not going to replace it until I get a larger housing though I'm hoping that as well! Hopefully going to the ATS dyno event Saturday and getting it on the rollers!

So the copper tubing on my DP gauge kept plugging. It was an 1/8in line, so I went out and converted everything to 1/4in today.

15mph is where the grids are shut off. I'd start by having both batteries load tested. Do you have something that can read the voltage besides the dash gauge?

If I had a HO and was looking to put a SO on, I'd find a core from someone who did a Ppump swap. Plenty out there

I took mine out and moved everything to a toolbox in the bed. I sure as heck didn't chuck it though!! Not sure if I'm ready to separate from it though. Many of the 1/2 tons had them as well. I'd check junk yards with 1/2 tons first as that's where I got mine.