TFaoro

Hmm I'm needing some new tires for next winter. Tempting

Water pump. It's coming out of the weep hole, meaning the pump is shot

New exhaust and exhaust housing should be here tomorrow. Made a tester, and did a boost leak test. Happy to say everything is TIGHT! Only place air was coming out was the boost elbow Then did some more looking around and found this. 12K miles This was a Napa, so hopefully the next one will last longer.

Down shift.. if the vibration persists it's tires or in the drivetrain. If it goes away it could be your exhaust like you said. I'm not worried about mine being too loud. It's going to dump out in the stock location, so it shouldn't be too bad. If it is, I'll likely pick up an FTE resonator. I'm more excited about the turbo housing though! I'm really hoping it'll open it up and let it breathe.

I'll do get a couple! Twins.... Unless you've heard them you wouldn't believe me when I say it's quite than having a muffler.

Try this: HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!. Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case. This will tell you if the injection pump is good. Make sure you have fuel to the injectors though!

Yeah this vibration has been kick my butt. Sucks to have wasted my money at the other shop. Yes, Diamond eye straight pipe. My buddy who hit the curb really wants a 4" and I like the deep rumble of the 5". It's a win win for both of us!

Luckily we were able to use the school welder! I wouldn't trust him to weld anything though haha Yeah he got really lucky. Removing the rear shackle would have been a bear! They are nearly the same. Only difference is mine is a SO 5 speed and his is a HO 6 speed. His is also nearly stock with only a smarty, and mine is not.

01 HO. I think all of the HO trucks had the rear disc brakes, but wouldn't swear to it. You're 100% right. Like I said they'll be replaced once the block is replaced. I didn't want to crank new ones down then "re-use" them when he finds a block. It's not a high hp truck, and he isn't towing anything so it should be fine until he finds a block.

Went and had my driveshaft balanced AGAIN by a better shop this time. Apparently the old shop did a horrible job. This other place said the rear U joint was bad, the shaft was not straight, and there was no way it could be balanced the way it was. They also said the factory weights should be removed before attempting to balance, which the old shop didn't do. It cost me $130 after taxes and I'm happy to report the vibrations are gone! I'll have a 5" exhaust on the way monday, and Jacob at DAP is sending me a 14cm housing for my phatshaft to see if it'll drop the drive pressures. It'll be going on a dyno for sure Saturday, and if I'm lucky sometime this week too.

Sorry I forgot to update this. So as you can see in the pics, the cast block broke when he hit the curb, allowing the axle to shift backwards. I did a temporary weld on it so that we could put the truck back together. He's now on the hunt for a block. We also straightened all 4 U bolts and put them back in. Those will be replaced when the block is replaced. We thought the rear shackle was cracked, but luckily it turned out to be paint / rust that was cracked. Everything else looked good. No bends, cracks, or twists.

Here's the article: I would start there with the apps and do some testing. If all of that comes back okay, we can add in some more suggestions.

Moog has gone down hill from what I hear. No personal experience, that's just what everyone says.

The worst thing I've heard is the 10-12 do a lot more recycling, and it tends to "piss them off" (Throw codes, etc) So if you're leaving it stock I'd go with a 13+. That said, if you're deleting not much has changed motor wise since 07.5. If your wife is driving it a bunch I bet she would like the auto more. They also have more power from the factory. Manuals are nice if you like to row gears.

Teflon tape FTW! Haha just messin with you.

I think it's fixed though Didn't do it on the patch it normally tries!

HAHA mad you worried about something

I've never been given them when servicing brakes. I check them, and if they're good leave em. If they're bad then I replace them.

The "tin" hardware that keeps the pads in place was rubbing one of my rotors causing about the same issue.

Maybe... but you're not going to get 2in cut off. That is the 03-08 "upgrade", which is the 09+ factory steering. The 03-08 came with a Y style just like the late 2nd gens.

It probably does, but the shape of the lower bar is different on the 2nd gen setup. If you put an 09+ kit on it without a level and aren't careful it'll run into the bar.

Yeah I've got that exact same brace. The stud that hits isn't coming off the steering box though. It's the stud from the drag link that goes through the pitman arm. You can see it in my picture. It's the only stud sticking down.

Pictures of that?? I have the brace that holds the two frame rails together but I'm not sure what exactly you're talking about.

Same one. But if you look at where the stud sticks out of the pitman arm I'd bet money you've hit the rod that goes between the tires. I know I have on a 2" level. See the missing chip of paint?

No... trying a new steering damper first. So far I've had luck with no death wobble. Went with a Rancho and it's much better than the one that was on it. If you put on the 09+ steering kit you'll need the leveling kit!