TFaoro

If it were me I'd swap the whole thing. Just unbolt it from the manifold, exhaust, charge pipe, and drain pipe. All you should need is the T3 gasket between the manifold and turbo, and the oil drain gasket. Ebay usually has these cheap. If there is no abnormal shaft play don't worry about rebuilding it. No need to fix what isn't broken! You can pick up a boost elbow for it while you have it apart. I polished mine myself. Air grinder and a LOT of sand paper. If you really want to do it send me a text and I'll explain better. Hopefully the smarty shows up today

Quad has definitely helped with keeping my smoke to a minimum except at WOT. As of now I'd say it is the best on the market.

I use whatever is in the gun at home... and I have no idea what's in it

Nope, it's wide open. I could see vapors coming out of it when the front breather was in a different location. I'm guessing that's just the path of least resistance.

You can see the two tubes next to each other in the video. Not much comes out the tappet cover breather though. Almost all from the front cover.

That's why she's got two vents! (Original and tappet cover)

I have no idea why people battle this. I can run mine virtually smoke free with a smarty. It's all in the right foot. Same goes for fuel mileage.

You're correct. Ring gaps, cylinder bores, etc. are all let's say "not stock" because it was built for higher performance. The point still stands though Can you get a video with the camera pointing straight at the tube? I think your tube ID is larger than mine as well. Could it be one of the actuators now that it's getting vacuum? Try all the different settings on the HVAC and see if it stays the same or not.

That's all in theory though. I would like to see what mine would make with only the smarty on these injectors. I wonder if they would be close to the 125s and the TST/smarty stack

To an extent though right? Larger injectors allow more fuel to flow out thus releasing pressure

Less holes will make more power though. You're correct. My injectors can only do so much with the smarty

Thanks @Mopar1973Man! I just wanted to get a "low mile engine" video Hey I said SOME was normal. It's also hard to tell just how much is coming out when you're not looking directly at the breather. Good thing you got the vacuum leak fixed though. It would be a little concerning but I'd start with checking for vacuum leaks and go from there. Testing things is cheap compared to a motor.

Not sure what would cause it, but it should be an easy fix when you get the new line. Bend the mounting bracket on the axle and clock it on the caliper so nothing rubs EDIT: From the looks of it, someone bent the holder on the axle. Looks twisted to make the line push toward the rear.

This question gets asked a lot here, so I figured I'd take a video. Right now this engine has between 11,000 and 12,000 miles on it, and YES it has some blowby just like all engines do. My point being don't be freaked out by a little bit of blowby (Engine at 190* after a 40 mile drive)

I can tell you I want you to shove that turbo + controller into my truck so I can use it as a twin setup! Your poor truck never saw any love before you got it....

Yeah it's pretty sad how little hands on experience most students get without going out of their way to get it. He's already moved to Nick and I's part of the woods His pickup is pretty nice too

Yeah... about 3 hours total on a lathe. I learned way more on a lathe in the shop from a friend. Just reminding you

@notlimah... Youtube it! I learned how to do basic things in a day. Other than that experience playing with it and a great teacher can speed up the process. Sorry @CSM I'm no help. You know how to reach me if you decide you don't "need" one though!

Whichever one runs off of vacuum. They work well an don't a compressor and other stuff in the way down there.

I would shy away. Believe it or not they do wear out eventually, and the last thing you want is to put a worn out exhaust brake on. Like @Mopar1973Man said the vacuum ones look different and IMO are better. Now for hooking it to the turbo... Is his the stock hx or hy? If it is I don't think it'll work with your aurora 2k. Most of them built for the hx and hy replace the back plate on the turbo. If it doesn't, do they have the same outlet flange from the turbo?

I'll believe it when I see it. I've had this discussion with Bob Wagner many times and have gotten the same result every time. It would be cool, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

Yeah, I'd get that fixed ASAP! Motor mounts are a pain, but they're doable. If you could write us an article on doing motor mounts it'd be awesome for the site!

Patience my friend... cut slices down the outer pipe, as many as you need. Then use a small chisel to bend the tabs out. Then twist the pipe until it comes loose. If you need to squirt WD40 in the joint. Works every time Then just weld up the slices. I'd find a welder if I were you to put it back together.

But with the brakes and steering working properly there can't be much of a blockage. Certainly not enough to heat the temperature that much. The only thing "bad" on the gearbox is the slop. I've tried adjusting it, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It's still sealed fine though. ATF doesn't start to burn until 300+deg and they still have a cooler. I'm likely going to try and take the whole system completely apart and add a cooler while I'm at it. What can I take apart on the hydroboost system?? I can pull the gearbox apart easily enough.

It might help. You can always try! Just remember, the more hidden it is the more smoke will stick to the truck.