TFaoro

Interested in the track bar!

I always use the white teflon tape when installing pipe fittings. I would use both. As for the order, I don't know if it makes a difference, but I like mine to be before the snubber. The more damping the better for the gauge. As for the weight, I wouldn't worry. Support it as best you can with zip ties and roll on. You'd be surprised the abuse those things can take.

Or just turn it down and take the controller out (You could unplug the iQuad from the adrenaline too.)

I like what @Me78569 put down, but I'd change the tps pump mine to 99%. That way her foot has to be on the floor. OR you set it to level 1 and take the controller out so she can't turn it up.

Scratching the threaded part doesn't hurt anything. When the motor goes up and down are you sure that isn't just the grid heaters cycling? A video with some sound could really help here. Can you give me a rundown on exactly how you installed the injectors please. I wouldn't worry about the seals until you fix the other issue. It's not really going to hurt anything. There is an article in here on how to replace them though.

To me this sounds like a cam position sensor starting to die. When the engine receives no signal it cuts all fuel, then it comes back right away and fuels it. Do you notice your tach completely dying when it does this?

Welcome to the forum! First off, thank you for having your signature filled out for us Let's start with the skipping issue. The tach just slightly moving up and down is completely normal. All 24v's have that little bounce to that. Unless you can actually hear the motor going up and down there should be no worries there. Any time you have an issue I would recommend unplugging all aftermarket modules so that we know they aren't causing the issues. The skip / irregular idle is interesting. Where exactly did you scratch the crossover tubes? If it wasn't on either end they "should" be okay, although we will not rule them out. Sometimes the sealing surfaces get deformed from over tightening and it can cause them to leak a bit past the sealing surface of the injector. Could you describe the exact process you used to install the injectors please? Last, are you sure your grid heater is functioning properly? I get much more smoke (usually white) when the grid heater isn't on. If it's working fine you may need to replace the valve seals. Either way, if the grid heater is working I don't think the blue smoke is going to lead you to your missing issue. How many miles are on the engine?

Maybe I should switch back to the smarty for a couple weeks and let @Mopar1973Man have my quad......

Hmm... I messed with mine for a week. Since then I haven't messed with the tunes other than timing to make it run smoother. Everyone has their own preference though.

I'd have to disagree with that. Until you actually run it you never know exactly how it can improve your setup. Look at Nick... he's not going for the big numbers, but the quad has been very good to him.

For me the quad has significantly helped my truck run better. By better, I mean the EGTs are cooler while making around the same power (not dyno proven), low end smoke has been easier to control, and the engine seems to run smoother. The data logging feature is also great! Helps to tune in the timing / pulse width / twins etc.

Keep us updated! This sounds like a ball of fun

See the 12V had the stock turbo, then a 3-4" down pipe, then a 4" diamond eye muffler, then exited the stock location. It's an eclb as well. Idk why it did what it did but it was unbearable! My brother's 05 got MUCH worse when he went from a stock he351 to a phatshaft 62/65/14. After he put twins on though all drone is gone.

Just like the other thread, post a video on youturbe so we can hear it. I can say I had a "popping" though my air filter before I rebuilt my motor, but never really checked on it again after it was rebuilt. I though I may have cracked a valve from crazy high EGTs, but everything looked fine when I took it apart it was fine. Maybe some others can chime in, but a video would help!

Hmm.... Is the Cummins made for it? Because of the cold around my area I wouldn't want to be "caught in the cold" with straight 30 weight. I doubt it would hurt it but why take the chance? I'd run it in the far equipment though!

Got a filter and needle valve installed on the drive pressure gauge today. Just need to pick up a new plastic line now!

My dad did the same thing with his 96 and the drone in the cab was horrible. It was giving us both headaches, so he stuffed another muffler on it. The same thing happened with my brother's CR. 4" exhaust, and droned horribly! The 24Vs don't seem to be as bad. Mine didn't have much even with a straight pipe and aftermarket turbo.

I moved this to the powertrain section now that it's no longer an emergency. Hopefully we can get you some more help here. I'd say the first thing you need to do is test the actual fuel pressure where it enters the VP44. From there we can help much more.

Hope not... he'd be calling me if something else went out! Looks like sunday is going to be the day

The spring mounts, frame, etc all looked okay from when I looked at it. Springs were siting normal so that didn't have me worried. I wonder what it felt like to be in the dang thing. I've never seen something like this on such a beefy suspension setup.

Well almost no one in my apartment complex could get out today except for the 4x4 vehicles. I almost got stuck in the parking lot (it's on a hill). Person's car I was next to has wet soot all over it now... oops. So school was canceled

So a buddy of mine, messing around in the snow today hit a curb with the rear right tire on his 01 HO truck. Now when I say hit I mean HIT it hard. The part of the rim where they clip weights on folded over onto the rim and broke. The axle is sitting 1/2in or more to the driver side, and the tire is sitting further back in the wheel well, almost rubbing the mudflap. It was packed with snow when he called me over, but from what I could gather the U bolts on the passenger side are bent, shifting the axle to the side. The block is also not centered between the U bolts anymore. It looks like it may have sheared the bolt that sticks through the bottom of the spring and slid the axle back. We are going to tear into it Friday or this weekend. Is there anything else I should be looking for that could be bent? What's the best way to go about the process if anyone has done it?

Yay for Colorado

You guys are just over here doggin on my higher HP build

There should be a spec somewhere for the amount of movement. I go by the rule of thumb though: Zero in-out movement and as long as the compressor wheel isn't contacting the housing don't worry about it. To buy the gaskets I use ebay with free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Gasket-Kit-Holset-HX35-Divided-Turbine-Flange-Oil-Feed-Drain-Cummins-/170969472998?hash=item27ce931fe6:m:myznUwIcBPNZDQFS9xnZMdw&vxp=mtr With what you have done I wouldn't worry about changing wheels or anything yet.