TFaoro

460 miles of testing, city driving, and highway driving at 85... 17.5mpg. No complaints there

This is Exactly where I'm at with batteries. I run wal-mart and haven't had any issues. When they go bad I replace them and keep the old ones for the farm equipment (only get run during the summer) then use the farm ones as cores. @KATOOM, if you don't notice any lack in cranking power why replace them? They very rarely just stop working completely. Especially with summer in a couple months I don't see the point until you notice some slower cranking.

If you can keep your foot out of it the trans will be just fine. If you can't, it'll eat the trans alive. I wouldn't tow with it either until it's built. Up to you

Good point, but with a smarty and 300hp injectors I could kill those mpg numbers. It all comes down to how you drive. But I'm sure you know that better than anyone!

IMO it's all in the right foot. Never had an issue getting in the 20's with the smarty set to level 1.

I can send you my smarty if you'd like to try it before dropping a bunch of money. If you don't like it, send it back and find something else. If you do, you can run mine until you find a decent price.

I use high temp RTV on everything.

Probably time for a reseal then... Once they start leaking at the mating point they don't stop. To answer your question though, yes they do have a vent. Where vacuum lines plug into the top of the Tcase, one of those lines is a vent that runs up to the firewall. Just find the two lines that run up there. One is vacuum, and one is a vent

We say it's colorado and they don't do that Those hold downs look good!! I have plastic ones on mine that are even different from @Mopar1973Man hold downs. The extend and contract for different size batteries. Too bad they SUCK. I might look into this

I'm still a little salty that you have the DHD Where is it leaking from?

This isn't the type of forum to lecture you about an accident Stuff happens. I'd be willing to bet you have a starter contact going bad, which is really easy to replace. For some reason the article I'm about to post isn't showing the pictures, but I'll throw up one or two of my own. Click here:

I did the swap a year or two ago and it isn't hard, it's just a pain making sure you have every little part to make it bolt up. I'd say the biggest thing you should do is determine your budget. The he351 is a good turbo... not knocking it, but technology has come a long ways since it was designed. IF you can afford something better that's the route I would go. An s300g (57/65/12), 60/65/12, 60/68/12, etc. The FMW turbos are pretty sweet as well. They've also got the EFR and SXE series out now.

Come drive mine above level 5 and let me know if you can keep the exhaust below 1600 and the surging from ripping the drivetrain apart.....

^^ He's right you know!

Don't forget about the TST...... one of the most uncontrollable, hardest fueling boxes on the market!

The biggest reason is to let the turbo cool. If you shut it down with the turbo steaming hot, it'll literally cook the oil inside the turbo. That will eventually ruin the bearings and dump the cooked oil back into the pan. So it's very important. I cringe every time I see a new diesel shut down after being run hard. Some programmers will tap into fuse #9 (inside the cab) and keep the engine running for a designated time or until the programmer shuts the engine down. I have my quadzilla set to kill the engine at 300*. I pull the key and walk away. When the egts are low enough it shuts down the engine.

Did you feel if the thrust was loose before you tore it apart? Did your kit come with some shims?

I've been cruising around on STOCK fueling (only a timing increase)... no need for any more power when DDing. Still pulls harder than it used to with my previous turbo/injector setup. No lag is awesome! You buy the parts and I'm down Let's see how much this trans can hold! Tom... Was I right about this forum!?

My bad I thought we were talking CAD not Tcase. SOOOO is it fitting like it's supposed to now? Funny how these look exactly like the transmission syncros.

If I can make it to the camping trip you'll get to see what your convincing has done!

You guys are good at spending my money

Good to see you over here Going from 5/4 to 5/3 basically makes the edge wait until there is more boost before fueling harder. This makes sense because the injectors will smoke more than the stock ones until the boost builds. Does that make sense?? If not what doesn't make sense? We can try to explain it better. By "sock" do you mean pre-filter? If yes, I REALLY like them!! Keeps all of the big junk from getting stuck in the pleats of the filter. I run one on my twins and didn't notice a difference from not having one. If the pre-filter is a restriction, you would likely see higher boost numbers because more air is making it into the turbo. I don't think their cons outweigh the pros though.

They don't tend to list that on amazon. I'm looking at the one you posted Here: http://www.amazon.com/AZPEN-A729-Dual-Tablet-Android/dp/B00K0MEP7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456324792&sr=8-1&keywords=Azpen+A729+7%22+Dual-Core+Android+Tablet and this guy http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Display-Wi-Fi-GB-Special/dp/B00TSUGXKE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456324925&sr=8-2&keywords=7%22+tablet

Does it have Bluetooth capability?

Pictures would help... I guess I'm forgetting which way it slides to lock and unlock.