TFaoro

Or just buy quality fuel Been in -32F and not had GOOD fuel gel. That said, I've had bad fuel gel above 0F

Hmm.. could have just been a bad fuse too. I'm sure you'll be keeping a close eye on it though!

Good to hear it saved you!! The number of people out there that refuse to believe it amaze me. Now why it blew.... how old is it??

Luckily this was my dad's sled. We had just finished tearing up a big hill and were about to start heading back to the truck. He went to turn around and there was a rock barely covered in snow. It had a big notch in it where a piece of 3x3 angle would fit and it cupped his ski perfectly at 10-15mph. Threw him off and effed up the left side. I wish it was more exciting!

Bent and twisted both arms that run into the bulkhead, bent the shock, bent the torsion bar, and obviously destroyed the trailing arm. Damn expensive hobbies.

Just curious... mine will sputter like an SOB if I stab it and the EGTs are below 400 or so. Just not enough heat to combust all of the fuel. My result is usually white smoke as well.

What are the exhaust temps when you stab the throttle? Like 300* then you stab it and it misses or what?

Definitely couldn't hurt to know more.... Nick, when you "got on it" was it up above 3K? I wonder if the oil pressure spiked, causing it to quit.

I'll make sure mine is spotless!! The real question is.... which turbo are you going to check!?

She was rebuilt at 188,466 miles. Thanks for the tip!

I wouldn't try to spray electrical connections directly.... Other than those wash away! Mine gets a full wash once a week

I've had good luck with simple green on all of our farm equipment and my truck before I rebuilt it. I never worried about getting it on anything and it's never hurt anything. It works really well if you don't dilute it like the instructions say I let it sit for 20 min or so then powerwash the crap out of it!

Better yet, take a picture of each turbo and post it up here. We'll vote and the cleanest one get's a free lunch!

Have you shown him Mike's youtube video? Try holding it to the sun and look for holes...

Cool! I had a 94 Dakota V6 manual and a 96 Dakota V8 with the 318. Both were great little pickups! Sold the 94 with 254,000 miles with zero major failures. Neighbor bought the 96 with 180k or so and is still going strong!

We'll see. I plan on pulling the traction bars in the morning... well that's in 4 hours better get what sleep I can!

Can't believe I saw this.... Literally almost got hit by security forces on the base today too!!!! They just decided not to stop at the stop sign and luckily I saw them and hit the brakes!

I've had more injectors in my truck than most will see in their life. All of them were run with 2-stroke. None of them were even remotely fowled. Valves get more oil on them from the valve seals being worn than "unburnt" 2-stroke ever could. (ask me how I know) I did help a buddy out and pulled his injectors for him. He had been running the PS and had a hefty amount of carbon buildup at 120K. He's since switched to 2-stroke. Looks like 2 stroke cleans more than it hurts.... Not my video so I can't really say though

I tied the front driveshaft with twine so it couldn't spin and tested it. The vibration was still present. I can't remove the rear and drive it as all the fluid would pour out the Tcase. Thank you for the suggestion though! Maybe when I go home I'll duct tape it up really well and give it a shot.

I can pull the traction bars again, but I have almost no pre-load on them. Thinking about it more, I doubt it's transmission related because popping it out of gear at certain speeds makes it vibrate worse. That leaves the T-case, driveline, and rear diff. POWER!!! I feel safer with it in there. I'd rather dump 3 gallons than have to rebuild it again. And there's no way I'm going to try saving the oil. I might drain half out and loosen everything up then re-tighten. We'll see. Definitely tolerable. I haven't noticed a change at all on the dipstick in over a thousand miles. I'm just a perfectionist I guess.

You need to replace the clutch. If the RPMs are climbing and the speed isn't changing the clutch is slipping. Because of the miles, I would also suggest replacing the hydraulics while you're in there.

Very little movement. I would think it would start throwing oil out the back if the bushing was bad enough to make it vibrate. The vibrating is so weird... 80 and higher it vibrates while in gear under any load or no load. Pop it out of gear and the vibration stops. 70-75 it vibrates some while in gear and under load but if you take it out of gear the vibration gets worse. Too much power, heat, cold, and a bunch of other excuses I can't think of right now

You just run the drawstraw 3/4 of the way down into the sump. I think Fass advertises one.

I've got a vibration... Is there any way to differentiate it between the Tcase and Transmission?