TFaoro

Sorry to hijack this a bit.... but does anyone know what the G56 plug is??? It makes the 4500 plug look little. Now you've got me wanting to get mine ASAP!

I don't think that's normal.... BUT the dash does lie. Having a scangauge or something similar would really help! My egts stay below 900 on the steepest hills unloaded, leading me to believe there's some sort of problem. I took the thermostat out and filled it until the bock was at the brim, so I'm not sure how air would still be in there.

Maybe my brain isn't working.... how do I check it? Better not be any in there. I haven't used it on anything.

Hey guys, so since I've had my truck for a bit the engine temps are acting a bit weird. I know it's normal to climb up to around 200F before the thermostat opens, but mine seems to be doing it sporadically after the thermostat opens. For instance, driving home there was a bit of a grade for about a mile, and the temps climbed up to 208. The fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Then today, I was driving for 30 min or so and it was at 193, where it usually sits. Then out of the blue it climbed to 202 and sat there until the fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Ambient temps were both around 65*. I'm thinking thermostat, but it didn't do this before the new water pump.

Lengthened the Tcase shifter rod tonight so that the shifter in the cab is in the correct position. Allows me to have 4L again. Also lengthened the shift rod from the clutch petal to the slave cylinder. I've got it adjusted too high right now, but I'll get it into that sweet spot eventually.

When you're driving it won't be submerged. Not sure if that'll throw off your reading or not. I'm going to tap one of the PTO covers on my g56 when I change the fluid.

Where did you pick up your dongle? I'm looking at working on my brother's 05 over the summer. His acts VERY weird at >10K elevation. The rail pressure spikes to 23K and stays there.

Sooooo this morning I start heading home for mother's day. I was doing about 70 and all seems normal then I hear the ding from the "check gauges" light. I look down and my volt meter is laying all the way to the left. I shut the truck off and re-started it, but the volt meter never went above 12. I think O well and quickly drove to autozone to pick up a new one. I get the new alternator and come outside to see a little bit of smoke coming out from under my hood! I quickly grabbed my tool set and threw the hood open to find the rubber "cap" on the grid heater terminal smoking. I quickly disconnected both batteries to stop the smoking. I also managed to touch the intake horn and burned my hand (Yeah I know really smart right?) I unbolted the grid heater wire from the battery terminal and hooked everything back up.... no more smoking. Looks like one of the relays decided to get stuck closed. I think it overworked the alternator and made it shut off (which made the gauges light come on) Hopefully it didn't hurt the alternator... I'm going to take out the fluke meter and make sure the diodes didn't get burned up in this process. Just shows how you should always check your gauges periodically! I also lost two manifold to engine nuts, and the gasket between the manifold and small turbo is blown out again. I have great luck... I'm going to try and find some switches and we'll see where it goes from there! The different part #s must be for different lengths. No worries, I can make my own in the lathe

I'm running 4th gens like @CSM. I've never heard of your issue before..... maybe a bad batch got out! Sorry I'm no help when it comes to reading the sizes.

Nor was I just from the pictures..... I think i can make something pretty slick with a simple switch!

Yes, it does exist. I don't like it though.... Seems cheesy to me. I think I'll run an electric over air setup with a simple switch. That way I'll have the ability to lock and unlock it. I think I said it earlier in the thread, but it's a south bend street dual disc with south bend hydros. There's no way I'd even attempt a stock clutch. The truck has some dang good power even on stock fueling.

How did you do it? I'd like something clean.

Hmm I wonder if it's going to hurt the Tcase because the front shaft is never spinning. I'll have to dig more. I am considering switching my CAD to an electric over air. That way if it's snowy or something I can let the shaft turn as I drive and pop it into 4x4 anytime I want. Decisions Decisions. I think the hydraulics are for an 05 G56 truck, at least I'm assuming that because that's what the trans is came from. I'm not sure how the hydros differ from the 2nd gen to 3rd gen

Cleaned it up. Let's stay on topic gents

The swap is DONE!!!! Got the driveshafts stuck in, and fluid in the transfer case. I got the new hydraulics installed, but they must be different on the 3rd gens. My clutch petal is sitting just below my brake petal, meaning the clutch only disengages on the Very bottom of the stroke. I plan to make a new end in the machine shop this week. I went back to a 4" downpipe... 5" just wasn't working. There's no way I could make it fit without it hitting the cab as I decelerate. The 4" flows more than enough anyway. I hooked up the reverse light by cutting switch where it clips to the harness. I then soldered wires to the exposed prongs. From there I heat shrunk it and hooked it up to the truck's harness using spade connectors and taped them up tight. I was told from a reputable source that the 4x4 actuator for the CAD would not stick low enough into transmission to actuate, but it works just fine. I do have a problem with the Tcase though... It won't shift into 4H while moving, otherwise it will grind. It shifts just fine sitting still, so I'll have to see if it needs to go in for warranty. Now for the good news! This thing shifts like a beauty!! Even better than the nv4500 IMO. Dropping it into a gear from a stop is very easy, unlike the 4500. I can even drop it into reverse at a stop with ease. With the 4500 I always had to drop it into 4th before reverse. Having 6 gears really changes the game. The truck stays right in the middle of it's power band instead of the big jump between 3rd and 4th gear. I don't like the OD ratio though... the .79 instead of the .74 really makes the rpms jump up at cruising speeds. I'm around 2100 @ 70mph. 2400 @80mph. I may go with a set of larger tires to drop my rpms back down, but we'll see. 120 miles tonight and everything sounds smooth as butter!

It's not as common with the later trucks. The nut they used works pretty well. To keep mine on, I only shifted to 5th after 50mph.

Looks good Mike! Glad to hear it's shifting well with that oil. Gives me some home for my trans. I won't get around to changing mine until summer. It's leaking a bit from one of the PTO covers as well SMH. Didn't have time to let the silicone dry on my "patch" but I'll get it to dry overnight. I like the strap idea! I usually lift it up on a jack, then lay under it and stab it myself. Your way is waaaaaay safer though! Maybe next time I'll steal your idea.

Correct. Many "temporary" fix it by just removing the tail housing and slapping a new nut on it.

5th gear slides back off of its splines and nothing happens. Usually there isn't any damage to any components.

Awesome! Hopefully it's a smooth stick Might talk to you about getting some close-up pics of the shaft if you don't mind.

I wish I could see the fracture surface in virgin form.... I've been studying how / why fracture occurs on certain surfaces in my advanced machine design class. When are you going to have her up and moving again?? Hoping to have mine rolling tonight

Interesting. I wonder why it broke.... Those shafts should last a lifetime with a hefty safety factor. Big torque wrenches are awesome! We've got a 3/4" drive that goes to 600 ft-lb. Hardest part is holding the transmission down while torquing.

I prefer the quad just because of the ability to custom tune. You can remove almost all smoke from a tune and still make it exceptionally powerful. The added benefit of gauges is also a plus for me and probably others. I did not like the way the comp changes timing. The quad does it way smoother. I have been able to make mine surge, but with the right tune that can be taken out.

Would you mind giving us a price and where you got it?

I'm not sure what your experience is, but everything I have read says to run away from Mike Lazar and his products. Hopefully some new oil will get it shifting right