MnTom

I spoke with my credit card company and have a recourse for recouping some finances. I really can't go iinto detail, but I am going to be covered for his share.

What model years are you looking at, Robert? The TDI is becoming more and more common and is in more models every year.

Thank you, but it has been a few years so it is a bit easier to deal with.

Yes, depression is ugly. I have a nephew that grew up with my wife that committed suicide. I had been trying for a few weeks to get him to move into my house and get a job around here, but depression won out. He sent us a letter that was timed to where we got the letter about an hour too late.

The tranny is all in pieces (I was standing there watching it come apart) including the O/D section. There wasn't any metal in it so I am good there. If it had not been for the converter having a slight score in the hub that you could catch a fingernail on I could have had it back tonight.

Plug the red lead into the "V" port and the black into the "COM" port. Turn the knod counter clockwise to the "20" designation. Then put the black probe to the battery negative and put the red lead on the alternator stud.

Well, the results are in..... I need one new pump bushing, one reman pump, new front clutches and steels, and have the converter sent back to Goerends so they can repair or replace the hub. All to the tune of about $1200 AGAIN. After a phone call to the "rebuilder" it got heated enough to get to the point I said " I will be in touch" and hung up. A bit later he called me and we decided to split the cost of this repair. Now I need to wait for the final bill. The first two pictures are of the the bushing, and the other two are of the front steels... Has anyone ever seen a "rebuilder" GRIND on the steels "to give them better friction"? Looks to be another week before I get a transmission home.

Simple. Put a DVM set to measure AC voltage on the 12+ terminal (large one) and the other lead to the negative on the battery. Anything over .1 volt is enough to give you grief.

P1688 reads "Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure (found on Google) Generally not a good thing. Probably looking at a pump no matter what. I would look at the RV275s as they are a nice upgrade and also seem to assist with mileage too.

10 miles west of Lake Superior to be exact.......

My son called tonight and said the car is still running good and as an added bonus his radio is a lot better with a lot less static where he is! Amazing what a small (and I mean small) amount of corrosion will do to a ground.

This it from an E-Mail that I recieved from Goerends That is all they said about the silicone. The e-mail goes on to say that most likey the pump bushing walked out and allowed the seal to leak, but I pulled the pump cover off and looked at things and nothing jumped out as to a cause. I should have an answer tomorrow when I take it to someone to get fixed.

I get this from your link, John..... Sorry, the requested page does not exist.

Not one word.... In fact he said everything looks good. I think I may need to look into Ohio's warranty laws........

I decided to show you guys some pictures of the 'quality' of the repairs..... Since when is black silicone used on the inside of a bell housing? Also, would you put transmission mount in that looks like the one I took out? I bought a new mount for $27.

According to the NHTSA there IS a recall on tie rods: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults;jsessionid=NtTTTp4Qld26hnz1dFRZQ53rnL0nT12kGHfNYP2GPZ3ZmtBMnzKc!359129687 which reads in part: Chrysler Group LLC (Chrysler) is recalling certain model year 2003-2008 Dodge RAM 2500 4x4 and 3500 4x4, model year 2007-2008 Dodge RAM 3500 4x2 Cab Chassis and model year 2006-2008 Dodge RAM 1500 Mega Cab 4x4 trucks manufactured February 12, 2002, through February 13, 2008. The left tie rod assembly may break. CONSEQUENCE: A failure of the tie rod assembly may result in a loss of steering control, increasing the risk of a crash. REMEDY: Chrysler notified owners in December 2013 and offered through its dealers installation of a new left tie rod assembly, free of charge. On or about February 27, 2014, Chrysler ceased its recall remedy program due to parts quality concerns. Chrysler expects to reinitiate the recall remedy campaign, but with limited parts availability, on or about the week of April 14, 2014. Owners may contact Chrysler at 1-800-247-9753. Chrysler's recall campaign number is N62. If you would like to make a complaint: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml Otherwise the site is: http://www.nhtsa.gov/Vehicle+Safety/Recalls+&+Defects

Yea, I suppose you are right. I did let it pull good a few times. I am surprised it didn't let go when I had my fiver in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Yep, with a TSB you are on your own. Go buy the parts you want where you want and fix it right!

OCD or not, you are real lucky. I would be all over the phone to a dealer. You did contact a dealer already didn't you? If they turned you away for whatever reason I would tell them THEY need to get it towed to them and they would be footing the tow bill.

If you want to check it you need to pull it. I favor lifting the bed for this, but that is up to you. Pull the fuel tank module leaving the wiring in place then move the float while observing your fuel guage (with the key on). Like Ilikeoldfords said, there has to be some power travlling through the sender to get a reading.

I know what you mean. Shoot, I can't even keep one going on the street, let alone try anything..........

Well, JR, welcome to my world.........

I tried to get ahold of Dean, but his voice mail was full and couldn't leave a message and by time he callled me back I was running short of time and Blood already had the truck.

Is that a DSG or a manual? This explains the DSG fairly well http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_308.pdf

I have heard of the splines letting go, but in my case...... I really don't know what caused it to break like it did.