MnTom

Yes sir.

If you are working it, maybe, but at 40* I have not seen anything that would give cause for alarm even when idling.

That is just like not wanting to upgrade a stock auto but wanting to run a programmer and injectors. You will over power the clutch in no time and need to replace it again and again...... Sorry, but that is part of the game.....

I just did mine in place.

Yep, the rear door didn't appear until 1998. The cab is the same as mine. PM me with what you want for it.

I am interested in the cab too. I don't need the dash, but the cab would be good.

Like ISX said, they are pretty simple. It may be nothing more than a fuel filter. Also, it won't be a 53 block. To old for that. If you do get it make sure you tab the KDP on it.

That picture shows it is not on the truck...........

Mine did the same thing in some of the same places. I used some spray adhesive and it is still holding where I put it, but now the liner is sagging in other spots too. Guess I need to get some more adhesive.

This is one of those type of jobs that you can do better by feel because you can't really see what you are trying to do.

If you cleaned the grounds and all is well you probably don't need an alternator.

The shop should have some sort of testing facilities. If they can't test them after a rebuild I would go somewhere else.

I didn't think they were that far north. I was always under the impression they were in the south west.

Seeing as what you are putting in the tires at any air station is 78% nitrogen I see no benefit for John Q Public. Formula 1 racing, yea, I can see some benefit, but none of us are running anywhere near what they run for speeds and cornering.

That trans problem sound a good bit like the speed sensor on the side of the transmission. It has two wires and tells the PCM what the speed of the trans is. The connectors have been known to loosen up and momentarily loose connection. When the connection is lost the transmission wants to down shift or if starting out it will not even upshift. Try pulling the plug and twist the wires a round or two then plug it back in. If it takes care of the "miss for a split second" then you know you found the problem.

I would just make sure to put some oil in it just before start up. Keep in mind that the turbo is about the first thing to receive oil when the engine starts.

I don't know, but maybe this will help? http://www.circletrack.com/drivetraintech/ctrp_1009_saginaw_transmission_rebuild/

I think you would be quite surprised as to how hot a stock engine can get.

True. First, second, and third shift fine for power, but the difference between third and O/D is quite dramatic.

So far so good! The only 'problem' is that when it shifts to O/D that it shifts so fast that you will actually feel the seat hit you in the back when you are pushing it even a little!

Ain't that the truth........

As a side note, Bill, On my son's 2006 Jetta TDI he said he got 48 mpg out of his last tankfull. I put a small piece of aluminum blocking the EGR flow for a test and he even said it has more power. According to VCDS the MAF is used to measure flow for the EGR so no code or light! Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.........

Eventually you will get to where you need to use a starting aid (ether) or need to plug it in to get it started. If you use ether or anything like that disconnect your grid heaters!

Exactly. You need injectors.

Will, THIS ARTICLE will tell you all about the diesel Liberty.