MnTom

Strange....... I just went to napaonline.com and typed in the info. Sounds like someone don't know what they are doing to me.

Your local NAPA has one for $42.75 without the wheel. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Blower-Motor-AC-Heater/_/R-BK_6551871_0456282604

If you want to know for sure go ahead and swap it with another cylinder then check temps. If it follows the swap you know for certain. If not it could be anything from a cracked piston ring to your VP.

Well, looks like you have your bases covered! Just change the seal and run it. You are going to like the converter!

That would definitely be tight bushings in the motor. You may be able to free them and get some lube in them, but a new motor would probably be your best bet.

How many miles? If you are just going to replace the converter just a new seal, but I would suggest you look into going through the whole transmission since you have it out. Has the old converter been slipping? Then you for sure want to make sure there is no friction material anywhere in the system. Give us a little history on the transmission and what kind of power you have.

Sounds like you are 'making' oil. In other words there is fuel getting into your oil. Pull your valve cover and look for leaks. The only other place that might leak fuel is the shaft on your VP.

If you spin it by hand you should feel almost no resistance.

Ok, are you having to add oil when before you didn't?

All that sounds to me like you are not getting the fuel you used to. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? I wonder if the lift pump is failing or has failed. I also wonder if your VP is getting ready to give up the ghost on you.

I heard on the news tonight that another "piece" of the Polar Vortex is going to break off next week and it is supposed to be colder.

Now you are starting to give some good clues. You are having some fuel delivery issues. Have you put a mechanical pressure guage on the verify the fuel pressure?

Wow, they sound like a lot of work!

You realize that is a sign of getting old, don't you? I mean after all, the memory is the second thing to go........ Give me a few minutes to figure out what the first thing is........ edit 8:59PM: Still working on it........ Give me some more time, I will remember, I will remember.........

That sounds like a pretty decent deal to me!

Have you tried to cycle the grids a couple of times before you start the truck? Mine is getting to wherer even today in 25* weather I needed to cycle the key twice to start mine.

It was real close to complete freeze up last year. I think it was about 99%. I had a friend that used to be "on the boats" and he told me of one trip where they were leaving Whitefish Bay empty and they were dipping water in the middle..........

Kerley, did you check LMC Truck for what you want?

You have the right area for the drain. It is a small rubber nipple sticking out close to the bottom edge just before the firewall folds under the truck.

My answers to your codes are in blue. For the grid heater, when you first turn the key on (while waiting for the light to go out) is the volt meter down around 10 volts? When it first starts does the volt meter go up to 12+ volts and drop down and go up and drop down...... You get the idea..? If so they are functioning, but if not, then it would make for a rough start and some white smoke when first started cold.

Here is a 2001 service manual that may work for you: http://pdftown.com/dodge-ram-2001-service-manual/

Absolutely not! There is still another 2 months of shipping left. They will run until the locks close at Sault Ste Marie about the end of January.

With the weight of the engine I would want to run LR E tires. The LR D tires have lighter sidewalls that have more squirm than E tires. Besides, if these trucks could run D tires they would come from the factory with them since they are cheaper.

I moved it here for you so hopefully you can get all the assistance you need. Have you scanned it for codes? Also, your fuel pressure gauge, is it an electronic sender type or is it mechanical?

A Haynes manual is good for the simpler stuff, but an FSM is much better. You don't say what year truck you have, but if you check pdftown.com there is a good possibility you could find what you want.