MnTom

OK, you changed injectors, you did a compression check. You repaired your cross over tubes. Think about what else is in the fuel system............

Good job, John! Congrats on locating it. They can be a royal PITA (like you found out)!

That and the three bolts are a lot tighter than you would expect........

Yea, but still a PITA. I changed the timing belt on my son's VW diesel. Everyone said you need special tools to hold the cam and line the crank up, but it went smooth without all the fancy tools and I still got it done in a couple hours.

I got a box from NAPA and I haven't had any problem with it for quite a few years. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/P-S-Gear-Box-Remfd/_/R-PNB391046_0333894023

Wow, this is the second complaint about NAPA lately....... I hope is isn't a trend.

Unfortunately it won't work as a tuner.... It will read all the DTCs and allow you to program the car for lots of things, but no tuner type stuff. Far as the EGR on the ALH, I am not familiar with the set up, but on my son's BRM (1.9L 2006) there is a tube that comes from the exhast up to the EGR on the rear of the engine. If you loosen two bolts the tube will allow you to slide a piece of metal in there to block the flow. The ECM looks at the MAF for the EGR flow so it won't set a code or MIL. My son has claimed 48MPG out of his since I was "testing" it.

I have not ever seen any ST tires that are rated over 65 mph.

What a pain in a butt!

If you get a Volkswagon or an Audi you should buy this: http://www.ross-tech.com/***-com/That will allow you to get into the computer and you can actually change a few things even the dealer can't. I have it and it sure helps me out.

If the vacuum system was not producing enough vacuum the whole HVAC system would 'default' to defrosters only. You can pull the hoses at each vacuum motor and see if you have suction.

You should be able to get the fittings at just about any auto parts store or a tranny shop.

Here is a truck built by the last guy to fix my transmission. I have also had my hands on this truck helping to get it ready for a run at Brainerd International Raceway. He only did a 9.93/136mph on this run.

Far as I know all vents go through the evaporator. This sounds like a door is not moving to the correct position.

This is not possible UNLESS there is some kind of foreign substance on the fuse. If you pull the RED wire that runs from the battery to the 140A fuse, you have no power draw to the battery cable?

Exactly. The oil line for the turbo comes off the filter head so it gets oil before anything else, but llke W&F said, it will crank over and get the oil moving before the turbo starts spinning.

This is still where I am thinking the problem lies. On the 140A fuse there is one large red wire and one small(er) black wire on the same post. The large black wire comes from the alternator, the large red wire charges the batteries, but where does the small(er) black wire go? If you pull the red and black wire off the stud what happens if you go to the smaller black wire and what happens when you go to the large black wire?

Use a propane torch to warm the area around the fitting that broke. Then use the easy out.

But it did in his videos!!

My Maxxis 8008 tires are ST and they are radials??? The ones I had on before were radials too......... http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-122-129-st-radial-m8008

Kind of a long story, but I broke the input drum in lower Mich., got hauled to NE Ohio, had it repaired and the guy used a cheap pump bushing. 1300 miles later the bushing failed and took out the pump. We also found that the idiot that worked on it used a grinder on the front steels. It wound up costing me about $2K to get it fixed plus all the down time.

Funny thing is, I can't find any tech papers that say what can happen.......

I am registered on a couple of RV sites. You forget I also have a fiver too. I found that if I run the tires at 70 psi instead of 65 psi the do run cooler. I really don't believe that all those RVs are running overweight. The weight police on those forums are brutal.

I don't quite agree with you on the underinflation being after the overload. Most RV trailers are not overloaded far as tire capacity and a lot don't run over 65 mph. I used to pull drop deck trailers (when I drove big trucks) and one company had two spares on each trailer because they blew so often and when I went to another company they had no spares on the trailers. I asked why and they said they ran 115 psi in them instead of the 95 psi recomended. They were right, there were very few tire problems with them.

I have actually seen ONE parts person grab the phone and say ---parts. Can you hold? and before the person on the other end could say anything he punched the hold button. Either they were there when he got done with whomever he was helping or they hung up. He said the people that took the time to come there are more important than anyone on the phone. For them to sell the part out from under you like that is really low and underhanded.