MnTom

Huh! I was told that if the PCM doesn't 'see' the engine running it won't register anything on the guages..... Maybe I was mis-informed?

Yes it can. There was a guy over on my site that had his jump while the pump was off. He had to pull the timing cover to line up all the timing marks to get it to run right again.

That sounds a lot like the grid heaters are not functioning.

Your fuel leak (in this thread: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9344-maintenance/)may have something to do with your performance........

Pull your valve cover and you should see a clean spot where the leak is (if it is there). You could also start the enging and look for a leak too, but BE CAREFUL doing this. High pressure fuel can cause serious injuries. If by chance you don't find it there then you could have a front seal on the VP leaking although that is really uncommon.

That is a strange one! My first suggestion is to see if you could get someone to scan the ABS for codes.

When the CSS no longer functions the PCM thinks the engine is not running and shuts the guages down, shuts the A/C (if running) down, and shuts the alternator down. The most common problem with the CSS is the connector that is just about at the head staight above the CSS itself. Even if the CSS quits the engine will stay running since the hold side of the Shut Down Solenoid still hes power.

AGREED!!! Although if you do all you would need to do is pull the timing cover and make sure all the timing marks are lined up..........

My transmission won't shift without the ASD relay too. Well, eventually it does shift, but it may take a couple miles to get into O/D.

Do you have a tilt steering wheel? Do you use it much? You may have a broken wire or two in the steering column. Pull the cover off and see if any wire stretches.

I agree with AH64ID. Bearing buddys are good on a boat trailer or any other trailer without brakes. There is a much larger chance of having the seal leak and if there are brake then they will get covered in grease. Yes, it is a PITA to pull the wheels and repack the bearings, but then I also get to check the brakes and bearings to see if they are serviceable for the year.

Around me the price of diesel is running from $3.199 to 3.659 and gasoline is from $2.119 to $2.199.

Put a set of fender flares on and call it good. Nice looking wheels!!

But, does the Air Dog act up at a time when the grid heaters are not cycling?

If you are seeing over .1vAC then you have a diode that is failing. Chances are the LP motor will change pitch with the AC voltage sice it is designed to run on DC voltage. It sounds like the grid heaters are cycling normally and they will draw the charging voltage down causing the sound to change.

From what I understand the only thing different is the torque converter, but I am not 100% certain. Either contact Josh in Zimmerman or Goerends Transmission for accurate advice. When I took my transmission to Zimmerman I would have had it back the same day except for having to ship my converter back to Georends for repair.

You can do a lot of testing with a test light. You can check your 140A fuse to see if in fact it is bad. Once the truck is running the grid heaters will continue to cycle on and off until they have been running for 5 minutes OR until the truck gets to 20 MPH. You can either test the studs at the heaters or you can pull a small wire off each of the solenoids on the left inner fender to see if they are going to drop out. Do you know of anyone with a code scanner that can clear the codes to eliminate the dead batteries as the cause of them?

Would this help?

The pressure charts I find say the rubber stems are rated for 65 PSI. I put the next higher stems in my rims when I mounted the tires. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=208

My six lug 15" rims were only pressure rated for 75PSI if I recall. That is with the rubber valve stems, but I can't say I would trust the rubber stems at that pressure. The only 225/75/R15 in LRE that I know of is the Maxxis tire, but it is still an ST tire.

Your mileage is going to depend on quite a few things like what gears, what tires, speed driven, city/highway, you get the idea. If you fill out your sig with the info about your truck someone may be able to help you figure out your mileage problems.

Shocks have nothing to do with the tracking and position of the axle. The springs hold it in place. You can pull the shocks off and the axle will still be in the same place. They help by keeping the axle from bouncing and keeping the tires planted.

Have you checked the valves? See if you have one cylinder with a lot of play in the rocker arm. There is a possibility that you may have a bent push tube or possibly a lobe on the camshaft that may be going away.

You should be OK with the .05vac. The limit is double that .10vac.

Yep. It literally pulls the fuel apart and causes the air problem.