MnTom

I bought a cheap pair of headlights off e-bay because of the same problem. They do look good on the truck, but they don't shine real well. Plus I don't think they are DOT approved.

P0933 Dodge - Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Ctrl Circ/Open Broken wire maybe?

I wish it was only 25* today. It was -18* when I got out of bed this morning.

You can also take a look at this page and see if it helps: http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=897

I never thought of that! That would be the best way to go, but I happen to have a couple of old sockets that I could cut and weld together for a socket.

That will tell you exactly what the lobes are like.

I won't admit to it...........

Yea, you should be back on the road this weekend. Just remember to not put all the fluid in before you start the truck. It will pour fluid out the vent if you do!

You should need this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Switch/_/R-MPEOP6189SB_0464405413For some reason I can't seem to copy and paste an image here anymore.

Little tight?

Matt, that is a common problem. They are more of an on/off switch than a pressure sender. The sender takes a 1 1/16" extra deep six point socket to change it. Real simple to change too. I have a socket that I made to change them, but I may be gone for the weekeknd. I don't know for certain yet.

Yes, I agree that a frame can be welded to IF it is done properly. Stewart, you need to remember that most people that weld on them are just 'weekend welders' that just have a Lincoln buzz box.

Even if you have the manual hubs you still have the CAD that locks in the front axle. You may need to replace the vacuum hoses to get them to stay on again.

Ah, I see. What color is the paint on the transmission? Hopefully not purple.

I am really thinking there is a cam lobe that is going flat. That is why I suggest checking movement of the rockers. I know of an older Cummins (14L) that exibited similar symptoms and it was the cam.

Have fun!!

So, what did you have done? Repair what's wrong or complete end to end rebuild?

I wish you would figure this problem out....... We really want to know what is going on. Did you ever watch the valve train when you were spinning the engine over? I mean watch the amount of movement in the valves?

Those holes would be ok to drill out. You are not anywhere near the flange and the web is the place to drill holes. Boss has put a lot into the design and the liability of drilling the frame, so I would trust their instructions. Besides, SHOULD anything happen you can prove you installed it according to the instructions.

This is indicative of the Output Speed Sensor on the side of the transmission. The sensors are not expensive, but I would check the plug first. Try pulling the plug and twist the wires a couple of times and plug it back in with the wires still twisted. If that fixes it then you can get a new plug and replace it. For some reasomn I can't seemto find an image that this software will allow me to post, but if you look here the white plastic ones are the sensor: https://www.google.com/search?q=47re+oss&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=0OyzVPH7MdWqyASGr4DYBQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1600&bih=761

P0234 is an overboost code. It may have come when you put your foot into it to get the transmission to try to shift (if that is what you did). More than likely the waste gate is rusted. Does your truck start out in first gear then shift to second normally?

YEPPERS!! Just giving you a hard time.....

Just an FYI, a reman pump, new front steels and frictions, along with labor was about $950 for me. I wound up sending the converter back to Goerends to get the hub repaired and that was another $250

OOOoohhhhhhh....... NOT COOL. WHat are your plans for the truck? Power in the future, towing, racing........ The more you figure out now the easier it is to decide what is needed to make it live longer.

Rancherman, YOU GOT IT!! :cheerleader: YAY!! Good for you!