MnTom

You do not want to allow liquid refrigerant to get to the compressor unless you want to replace the compressor. Vapor is the correct way to do it.

Oh....... I didn't realize it was a P-pump conversion. That makes a bit of a difference!

That computer bolted to the block is your ECM.

That sounds a lot like a clutch that is hanging up or a pilot bearing that is beginning to sieze up. The syncros are probably worn and having a clutch issue is compounding the shifting problem. The clue is when you said "Once more odd item sometimes when shifting while moving, if I goose the engine just as I push the stick into a given gear, at the same time I feel the "resistance" seems like the gear is "sucked" in, hope that makes since."

I believe he means the spacers have 8 holes for the existing studs and have 8 studs on the adapters. The existing studs are longer than one inch so they would protrude beyond the spacers necessitating the cutting to get the rim to seat against the spacer.

Then it probably isn't your turbo causing the oil loss.

I hope you ordered a TIMBO APPS.

Yea, I forgot that......

The problem with most covers is that when the seat wears and tears, the cover will do the same thing in the same spot fairly quickly.

The best way to keep going when meeting those type of lights is to look down and slightly to the right. In other words, look at the fog line until they pass.

You can also check both sides of the fuse with a test light. There are two silver colored spots on the top of the fuse. Touch a test light to each side and if it only lights on one side the fuse is bad.

You mean the seal?

That looks to be one of those "Don't ask, don't tell" type things. Chances of you getting in trouble for the lights are quite slim.

Certainly sounds like a seal. Make sure you check the bearings and races out good too.

My truck has third gen rims on but they are off of a 2006 truck.

When I first saw this in the 12 valve section I was a bit concerned that I heard of my first P pump run away! Since there are a few reasons for it to run away you need to do some investigating. I doubt it is your turbo since you got it to settle down. A turbo would have just kept it going 'til she let go. Scan it for codes. It could have also been your APPS. I had a car that would do something very similar and it was the TPS (same as the APPS) sticking and telling the computer the throttle was pressed farther than it was.

My 1996 has the wedges in it.

I had a 1994 Cummins sit in my garage for TWO YEARS with a full tank of fuel. It never gave anyone a bit of problems.

This page explains how the beads work: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/HowItWorks.htm

Anybody catch the mileage he is talking about? At one point he says that after 300,000 KILOMETERS was a high mileage injector. That is only 186,000 miles.

I don't think that would be much of an isssue. Ceramic beads just might be more abrasive.

Far as I know they are the same. That is what I am running. They also work on the older steel ford rims I have for my snow tires too.

FlatTwin, You can swap the relays around within the PDC since they are all the same. For checking the AC noise, all you do is select AC on your meter, start the truck, then put one lead of your VOM to the ground on te right battery and the other lead to the large terminal on the alternator. Watch the meter as someone revs the engine. Anything over .1 (one tenth) of a volt is a failed diode and should be repaired.

OOOOOOOOOooooooooo...... That was bad.... Funny, but bad.....

Not a whole lot, but the SO pump is capable of producing more HP than the HO pump.