MnTom

Your fan will turn somewhat stiff when you turn it by hand. You won't get much more than about 1/2 revolution spinning it by hand then letting go.

Ain't that the truth.......

For a fuel heater that uses coolant, what about using a transmission heat exchanger from an automatic and then you can plumb it where ever you want?

It is possible for a diode to be bad but still show good on the AC portion. I would pull the alternator and have it tested.

Sure don't look like it. He said the grid heaters weren't working. When it gets cold if I don't cycle mine twice it is real hard to start too.

Well, that makes a difference. Sounds like it is time to pull the case apart. They are pretty easy to repair. You can even leave the case bolted to the transmission while you repair it.

This is the second thing to do right after you get the injectors on their way. You will then know for certain if there is internal damage this way.

Is your shifter in the same place as it normally supposed to be? Linkage could have slipped, or something in the case has moved. If you need to pull the case apart make sure you replace the plastic wear pads on the mode and range forks. Here is a diagram of the 241 DHD case and the DLD is the same inside: http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/mm5/graphics/pdf/np241dhd-2012.pdfOne question I have is why was the rear wheels spinning if your transmission was in park? That should be physicaly impossible.

I certainly do agree that pop testing is the next step and the least expensive route to go, but since you are saying there are solenoids in the VP there is a possibility (however slight) that there is something wrong with one.

What I am saying is that there must be an electrical/mechanical way for the pump to shut three cylinders down. Isn't it possible that one of the valves needed to shut down a cylinder may have a problem? If the VP had no way to shut down any cylinders then I would say no way.

I can't say as I have seen very many engine blocks in personal vehicles with drain plugs. Even your little Cummins does not have any. Pull the lower hose and then the t'stat. Stick a garden hose in it and let it run until clear, I guess.

Sounds like a VW forum I was on. I asked a transmission question and the first post was "DON'T YOU READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL?" all caps too....... I was asking why the DSG transmission will make the car want to lurch slightly when cold.

I am wondering, why couldn't this be the VP44? Remember these pumps have the capability to shut down three cylinders.

Even if you provide them the part number? Wow........

Did ya get it at NAPA?

That wire should be above the area where your left foot will sit. Pull the knee bolster and it should be fairly easy to find again.

I bet it does fix it.

Just remember, you get what you pay for. I have tried the "Less Expensive" route and it wound up costing more to get back to where I should have been in the first place. Think hard about your budget.

That looks a lot like mine, but mine is 4"in and 4" out. My truck is a bit louder than stock, but not bad even when towing.

Quite possible you do. It is on the stock ECM..........

Yea, you can do it that way. Just use a paper clip and back probe the connector.

Just an FYI 8mm is the same size as 5/16".

Have you put a meter on the output stud of the alternator? If you have two smaller wires going to the alternator you can inplug them and put 12+ to one terminal and ground the other one. Start the engine and test the output again. You should have full power then. If you do have power then the voltage regulator would be suspect, if no power then the alternator is not functioning.

Probably because you guys up north do a better job of refining..........

The backfires through the carb is probably nothing more than a lean fuel condition. I am thinking that pulling the carb and cleaning it out (at a minimum) will put you days ahead of your schedule.