MnTom

I second the boots. A turbo is possible, but not normally much of a problem, unless you are shutting it down hot (and have been for a while).

Have you tried changing the filter? Also while the pan it down look at the magnet and see what it looks like. Some fuzz on it is normal, but if it is really fuzzy you will know. Then you are looking at a bit of repair. Also the smoke you speak of concerns me.

The HX will work, but it will give a slight bit more lag. The problem is the elevation. The HY-35 and HX-35 are functionally equivalent under most engine loads, and the wastegates on both turbos are set for the same boost level. The HY-35 does not breathe as well as the HX-35 at higher speeds under a heavy load. The choke point of the HX35 is around 35psi; the HY35 chokes at about 29psi."(from http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm) The first thing I would do is put a BHAF on your truck. The exhaust is large enough to support your power with plenty of room to spare. Have you looked at your air filter? If it is dirty then you cannot get the air into the engine, but with my set up around here where I live (about 1000 ft elevation) my truck will pull a 6% grade towing in O/D at 60 mph and I can pick up speed going up. I have been in hte Black Hills of South Dakota (approx 6500 ft) and my truck has the same problems you do. I experience power loss and a lot more smoke plus higher EGTs. Far as your exhaust, you probably have a muffler and a resonator. If you eliminated the muffler it might help some with the EGTs. edit: There is no DPF on a 2001 truck. You have a resonator and a muffler.

Come to my house. 'Bout the only thing I will say no to is shooting out the window!

But if you don't vote you don't get counted.

Last week I saw six of them just south of my future son in law's place. I would like to try some wild turkey (the birds not the booze, but that would probably be fine too).

You bet it does. I just got back from voting. If you don't vote you have NO RIGHT to complain about the outcome.

The first thing I would do is get the level back to full. When you check the fluid are you leaving the transmission in park? The fluid will splash around and give you a false reading. The best way is to have the transmission in drive when you check it (as per Dave Goerends). Just make sure the parking brake works great or someone you trust to hold the brakes on. Otherwise check it in neutral and make sure you look at BOTH sides of the dipstick and go by the lower side. If the output shaft was shearing how would the truck keep moving? I broke the input and the truck would not move.

The worst part is diesel fuel is actually a by product of refining gasoline.

Does your light come on as soon as you turn the key? If not the ECM may be having a hard time booting up. Something to try is to make sure the plugs on the ECM and PCM are still plugged in tight.

I can't wait until I can get out in those hills again. I sure miss the scenery!

Just what families need. Wonder what the reason is for top speed of over 200MPH????????

Are you suspecting some collusion???? Naw, can't be......... :ahhh:

On the news the reports are that crude prices are expected to remain low for the next TWO YEARS!! Diesel here is about $3.549 and gas is $2.999. The reports are that the US is producing way more than used to be produced here and that OPEC is no where near as strong as it used to be so they cannot artificially raise prices like they could before. There is a glut of oil world wide now.

Socket size is 2 9/16". I got my socket at NAPA quite a few years ago.

That sounds like you made the right decision. An enclosed trailer would be better for your ride, but an open one is more versatile. Since your son has it I am sure you can borrow it when you need to.

Stupid question, but have you checked how full the radiator is? If it is full, then the picture that Mike posted is probably your problem.

Probably not much play. You can have a bearing with zero play but have a galled race that would do exactly what you describe. The only way to know for sure is to pull the bearings and examine them.

The best way to test is to put the blsck lead on the negative battery terminal and the red lead will go to the large terminal on the rear of the alternator. Like what was posted before, anything over 1/10th of a volt at any RPM is a failing diode and will cause problems.

Maybe "Run 'er til she blows!!"

Dang, you and trailers...... Did you ever get your flatbed trailer fixed up?

Some of the early 24 valve engines had the KDP problem. The only way to know is to open it up, although at that mileage, if it was going to fall out it probably would have by now. For a couple of hours labor you can find out for sure.

I have the Kies program, but I have a hard time getting it to work. Don't know why, but it will work sometimes and not others.

That would be nice...... Hey Happy Birthday Michael!!

Well, at least David showed up! I forgot all about this thread. I'm glad you are progressing even if it is slowly.....