MnTom

I don't have any info for you, but I moved this thread to here for more assistance.

I put two 6V golf cart batteries in mine last spring. When I was broke down in Michigan for three days I did like you, conserved on batteries, but they show no sign of loosing power. I am happy with my decision to use them!

The transfer cases have an oil pump that is run by the output shaft so if the driveshaft is turning the pump is working. Put the TCase in neutral and nothing but the output shaft will turn.

Well, if the washer is a three phase unit you will need three phase to power it UNLESS you can switch it to single phase (normally more than just a motor). Here is something to look at for deciding which converter (static or rotary) you can use: http://www.kayind.com/basics/types.htm

The wiring for the clutch switch is already in place on your truck. The two ends are connected close to where the switch would be located.

That bracket does make for a nice clean install!

If your clutch switch is causing problems why not fix it? It is a safety feature too. You can try for diagnostic purposes bypassing the clutch switch with a piece of wire and see if it starts. Far as "shorts" in your harness, that would cause fuses to blow or fires to start. Are you sure you don't have connection problems? I am not sure you can use an auto harness in your truck. Just remember, your truck went years without any problems with the harness and clutch switch so I would repair them back to factory or better.

You leading a sheltered life? LOL... Yep, it's a good thng. He means you are moving right along with your project.

Look around for a FSM for your truck. They have exploded views and part numbers.

Oh, I guess I missunderstood what ya meant........

Oh....... That's gonna leave a mark..........

There is no "install" of the high idle, but just a programming "adjustment" to your ECM. If you know of anyone with a Smarty they can do it for you and most will do it for free.

Short trips like you are planning is detrimental to the truck as a whole. In my opinion you would be farther ahead to find a cheap car to run for the winter (or even summer too).

My understanding is that if you do the work yourself the cost to swap is about the same as a decent build for your 47RE. It is also easier to have a donor truck real close when doing the swap.

That is part of the problem. There is no law about being stupid. Good thing too!!!!

That is one good thing about these 12 valve engines. You can flog the crap out of them and beat them pretty hard and they keep coming back for more!

Apparently not to much.........

To me it sure sounds like it was rode hard and put away wet way to many times.

Another thing you can do is what I have done. I threaded a piece of 1/4" pipe and used a coupling so that I made the wand longer. Right now the wand on mine is almost 5' long. The only problem I have it that it does get heavy trying to wash with your arms extended.

What condition is the body in? If it is decent, then I would look at fixing the oil leaks (might just be valve cover gaskets), the brake lines are fairly easy to replace, the starting is normal for a 12V due to low idle speed, the front end not engaging coud be the CAD collar not sliding, but the ball joints and tierod ends would be the most work.

The way mine is it has a large nozzle to use with the soap hose. If you use a smaller nozzle so it sprays like you want it won't suck up the soap. Read this and see if it helps: http://pressurewashertroubleshooter.com/wrongnozzle.htm

And that would be why I said "When you are working it".A 16% grade is a bit more work to climb than a 6%.

Ah, MUCH better! Thank you!

I think your link is broke, Yabba. It keeps bringing me back to this thread.