MnTom

John, maybe I misunderstood what you meant. I thought you said that if you pulled all the wires from the 140A fuse and still had a draw at the fuse, but now I am re-thinking that. I agree with Mike. Pull fuses and check each spot for the draw.

You would think the prices would come down the same as gas, but it is heating season and it is the same fuel. Around here there are prices still above $4/ gallon for diesel. I saw a report on PBS that said we can expect prices to drop to $50 per barrel and gasoline to go to under $2 for a bit. I just hope the diesel price drops accordingly.

If you pull all the wires then test to the fuse the problem is in or on your 140A fuse. There is some way for the voltage to be leaking to ground. Either it is internal (not likely) or external.

Would this help?

I didn't realize it was for the older trucks.... Sorry about that. I will look around some more and see what I find.

The only way I know to verify timing is to pull the front cover and line up the timing marks. That K&N CAI is not helping you at all. Personally I would throw it in the garbage. It has been proven that these engines get better mileage with warm air entering the cylinders. Mopar1973man can explain that better.

The black wire that you are saying is a ground off the fuse is the wire that goes to the big terminal on the alternator. Now here is what I would like you to do. On the one side of the alt. fuse there are two wires. Pull BOTH wires off the fuse and check the amp draw on ehch wire individually. The was it is set up you are checking the alternator and what ever the other wire is going to. You need to separate them to isolate which wire has the draw on it.

Here are the instructions for replacing the blend door, but the proceedure is the same as far as accessing the heater core. http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-s/397310-blend-door-replacement-pictures.html

I don't know if you guys realize it, but the 1/2 ton with the VM engine is putting out just about the same HP and TQ that my 1996 Cummins did when it was brand new? Mine was 180HP and 420 LBFT torque. It should pull and get decent fuel mileage.

Is it possible the APPS is giving the ECM a low reading (meaning low fueling)? Has it ever ran like you think it should since you have owned it? Possible wrong key in the pump or maybe the pump gear is off one tooth? I know of one truck that the pump gear was off by a couple of teeth and it still ran. Not good, but it ran.

So, you are saying the alternator they got in tested bad and you installed it? Am I reading your post right? You don't have any other wire going to the 140A fuse, correct?

Actually, I should have said how much the cops like his car. They keep stopping him to look at it. Yea, we have known each other for what, 6-7 years Matt? He helped me spread a bunch of class 5 gravel for my garage.

PSSST! Hey Mike, ask Matt how much the cops like him!!

You need to keep in mind that on most vehicles anymore the guages are nothing more that idiot guages, in other words they are programmed to show a certain point as long as the range is what is expected. As an example, the oil pressure guage on Michael's 24 valve truck will rise when the switch is flipped fooling the ECM into thinking it is cold outside and drop back down at the flip of a switch. I remember the video on here, but can't find it.

Just remember to set the meter to AC volts.

That was what your posts were pointing to. I am glad you got it figured out! Just make sure that the new alternator puts out less than .1 volt AC.

I can't say as I have seen any alternators that were not grounded through the case and through the mounting. That is why I said to disconnect the wire at the alternator and test it. That will be a difinitive test as to whether the alternator is the problem or not.

I was going to tell you to test all six. Testing one or two doesn't mean much. The main thing with the comression readings is to have them within 10% of each other.

You would need to disconect the large wire on the back of the alternator itself. That would take the diodes out of the equasion, and I am sure it would stop the draw also. I firmly believe you have failed diodes and need a new alternator. Make sure the replacement is tested for AC noise and is under .1 (one tenth) volt.

John, have you pulled the large wire from the alternator or the 120A fuse then checked the draw?

I helped figure one out that would start normal and have proper throttle response for the first five seconds then dead pedal and you could turn the key off and hold it in your hand while the engine kept idling. Contact EDGE and see what they say.

Yea, it still amazes me how much HP is lost through a stock converter..........

The plastic latches aren't very secure. Plus they are prone to break. I have heard of people using a window sash lock to replace the broken plastic latch.

I don't know what years they fit. Just tell NAPA (or anywhere else) the part number you want. Don't even tell them what you are going to put them on before you have them in your hand. They will give you a real strange look.......

It is amazing what a difference just a better converter can do!