MnTom

Your converter to flex plate should be studs on the converter and nuts against the flexplate. Make sure you check the studs closely for any wear or degadation. I wouldn't think you would need new bolts for the flexplate unless they came loose and have wear on them.

Won't be leaving here until after the 12th. Not sure exactly when so I will let you know.

Yea, I know what you mean. I bought a pair to put on my fiver and one had some sort of wiring problem. When it was hooked up some of the brake light side didn't work. I tried others (of the same light) and they were the same so I wound up putting a diode in the turn/brake wire and fixed it.

Thank you, Mom. The same to you and Michael.

You know, this reminds me of my first "real" job. I was putting up hay with those size bales for a penny a bale when I was 12 years old and thought I was rich!! That was 46 years ago..... Damn, now I feel old...

Don't you just love it when your "Damned old Dodge" shows its true colors like that? Some people get really mad when you get the same mileage that they do empty when you are towing.

I just put a set of LEDs on a small boat trailer. Both lights acted like your left one did, Russ. I even used a grinder and cleaned each light mount down to bare metal, but the trailer is so old I finally wound up running a ground wire from the left light to the right light and then to the tongue. Lights are nice and bright now!

In other words they are from a typical older baler.

Something else you can do for a fix is to spray the crap out of where the boot goes with CHEAP hairspray. The cheap stuff has more varnish like stuff in it so that the boot will slide on easier and then when dry the varnish like stuff will glue the boot on.

One boot on mine would occaisionally blow off. It also was the first one off the turbo. What seemed to help was the alignment of the outlet and the boot was slightly off so I re-adjusted the outlet and it seems to have fixed it. Maybe there is an alignment issue on your friends truck?

Glad you got it back! These trucks seem to be a bit loose in the steering department in my opinion. At least now you can stay in your lane!!

The P1693 code is just a code that says you have a code in the ECM. it really doesn't mean much for you. What you are describing may be injectors, VP44, or your crank/cam sensor (causing timing issues).

Have you scanned it for codes? That would be my first thing to do and see if there is something to point you in the right direction.

I just got back from the Rapid City, SD area and am going to go to my son in law's place with the camper and boats (wife's idea) this weekend, then next weekend (or somewhere there abouts) I am goint to NE Ohio for a week or so.

Are you sure you don't just have loose nuts holding the converter to the flex plate? That would be the first thing to check.

Rock Auto. Look at the Vendors & Dealers forum and you may find a discount code there.

So, exactly what do you and your son have planned to require body armor?

Why go there when it came from my back yard? It was picked about 10 minutes before going into the pie... Oh, and YES, the pie is good!!

Well, diodes only let the power go one way, so maybe they won't be too hard to diagnose and repair?

If you shorted the power supply the board shouldn't have been hurt. Just for grins and giggles, have you tried another fuse?

Nothing. I haven't had breakfast yet. Just a piece of sourcream-rhubarb pie (home made).

Russ, you can buy LED license plate lights also. I put LEDs on my fiver and also a boat trailer. My son was following me one night when I was pulling my fiver and he complained about how bright the brake lights were.......

There are a lot of tires that fit our trucks that are only "P" rated. Sometimes you need to look pretty close to see the actual ratings.

After all that it had better drive like a new truck!