PilotHouse2500

oops Oregon not Washington, still want to see if I can hook you two up?

Actually had to cut the frame off to make things fit w/in the front clip of the 50's body. I have to center the wheels on the fenders and that drives where things land. Moving axles and such would be a little to invasive for my level of comfort for a daily driver. Thanks for the inputs. I'm leaning towards leaving the engine where it sits (simplifies a bunch: motor mounts, tanny x-member & mount, axle lengths, etc). I don't plan on pushing him too hard, but I think just going a cross over tube route might just bite me later so I think I'll do a CAC of some sort just in case. I've got room in the fenders to put something.

NICE project, I have a '51 COE after I finish my current build (likely a 6bt repower project). Do you happen to know a "Brent" in WA that is into the bigger old Dodge trucks? I'm sure you two would get along great.

I'm progressing on my streetrod build and am running into space constraints with where the engine sits relative to the 1950's body. I know I CAN move the engine back with new engine and tranny mounts, but would prefer to not go that route. I've already decided to use a different RAD with electric fans in place of the stock fan for space, but need more if I want to not move the power plant. I've got 4" to work with. So a few questions for the great minds than mine leaving the power plant in place and having room for the RAD and AC condenser up front where they belong: 1. I could forego the stock CAC and do a liquid/air cooler and tuck that up under a fender. 2. Drop the CAC all together and just do a crossover tube. Thoughts please?

my shop man door awning (1950 Dodge hood w/ ornament)

thanks. I've got a few plans that it will be near impossible to steal unless you tow it.

After fighting and fighting to get the passenger door to line up right, I called the neighbor. He runs his own hot rod shop and has built MANY over the years. He's been kind enough to help me when I needed for nothing but a beer and a smile. I think he just likes helping me learn. Regardless, he came over and we chatted, and we tried, we got the torch out and bent hinges, and tried...and finally came to the conclusion below. I think he loved the pucker factor I had when I resigned myself to doing the cuts. Also we will likely work on flattening the top of the window to follow the now long flat section of the roof to make it look more pleasing.

Extended cab. 1/2 size suicide rear doors.

Been TOO long since I worked on TODD. Right now in between wood projects so time to grind down some early welds and redo so I'm not embarrassed by them! And cut out all the cross bracing as it's no longer needed and I can now climb around inside w/o being a contortionist!

On review I'm going to pass on the industrial to road conversion. Lots of work (read cash) to convert since many things are designed specifically around a genset vs. a vehicle. Not even the block PN's are the same between the two versions. Oh well. likely could have gotten it for under $1k with low hours...

So I have an opportunity to purchase a Cummins QSB7 industrial engine (from a gen set) for a decent price if the auction doesn't blow up fast. Question is this: can this be used as a swap into a vehicle? What would it take?

been a while...life has again gotten in the way. I hope to spend more hours this winter on the project. removed the cab (glad I figured out this EASY way vs. what I was originally thinking) and gave the frame a degreasing power wash...now at least I won't be full of it head to toe when I work in him.

Torched the springs to get the chassis to sit right (bunch of parts missing that would weigh enough to compress the front suspension). And then the cab mounts got put in. Even with the shop at a "cool" 75°, outside hit near 100° yesterday, it wasn't all that comfortable with the humidity so high, then ad the torch and welding heat!

ok thanks gang, plans this weekend to torch the springs and get the cab mounts welded in. Pics to follow on the build thread.

2500 or 3500 series? if anyone else has a minute or two to measure the upper control arm bolt to the ground I'd appreciate. I'm hoping for a few more to confirm that difference between the front and back pivots points. Thanks (so far) to dripley, 01cummins4eve, BBHD

hmmm some serious differences relative Control arm differences in heights between bolts: one instance is straight up 2", the other 3.25"... pivot link different by 1/2" Pitman approx 1" different. not the consistancy I was hoping for. BBHD, yours is a 4x4 with 6bt?

so to confirm, it seem the control arm measurements say there should be about a 2" difference in height between the two bolts, correct?

Well, the 94 is almost stripped down to nothing, Gotta pull the trany and driveshafts yet for me (trany for core exchange). Then it's pull the axles off for sale and chop the frame up for scrap. Body parts go to the scrap yard tomorrow.

thanks guys, from what I can tell I need to bring the front end down 2". Weekends are never long enough, but when a buddy is in state for a funeral you hang out with the crazy Californian and take him for a ride in your restoration and let him drive!

Thanks! Hoping for a few more from people to get a feel of what averages out as "normal". 1 or 2 more please!

tire size is relative. the measurement at the pivot on the passenger tire will set the reference height so I can adjust the other 3 for what tires I have on the frame. Thanks guys. Hoping to get this adjusted this weekend!

ANYONE?

OK guys need a little help here. Was looking at the body tongiht and getting it lined up when we thought about not having all the all weight on the frame will shift the suspension a bit relative to the frame due to the linkage pivot points. This would explain why some things didn't line up as expected. So I am looking for the following measurements from someone with either a 2500 or 3500 frame/suspension set up (6bt engine and manual tranny if possible!). Please note back where the measurement was taken from to the ground (center of bolt, top/bottom of bolt, joint between members, etc) something I can use as a solid reference. I plan on torching the springs to get it to sit where it should (putting bags in instead on the build). Thanks in advance! Note where the fingers are (should be 4 measurements). 2 pivot bolts on the arm, the pivot on the pitman and the pivot at the passenger wheel

"new" fenders pounded "straight" and installed. Now I can make sure the fender is centered on the wheel and align everything and finish the cab mounts.

hmmm, you might be right....I got a bit cut happy taking it down... oops