GSX455

Look up the battery temp sensor under P 1492, see below for post; are the batteries good and the ground connections good? p1693 is just saying you threw a code, good luck

I’ve got a 2001 24V and I replaced the camshaft sensor. You can get to it using a long 8”extension and I think a 5 mm Allen key.

Is it throwing any codes ? P1693? I had my overflow valve on the VP44 go bad. It would buck like its out of fuel under acceleration. My fuel pressure stayed above 12 psi

If the starter turning slow, and since you're in there, you might as well get the brush kit. I recommend a small torch to do the soldering of the brush leads, rather than a soldering iron, you'll be waiting forever for it to flow. Try to protect the brush sleeve with some fiberglass or aluminum foil. Also, that old phenolic lead to the solenoid is very brittle by now, snapped mine right off trying to remove the wire.

Larry B’s is the way to go, really nice guy, very helpful http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins-dodge-denso-starter-easy-rebuild-kit-94-06.html

Done

You were very lucky.

After you installed your new lift pump did it fluctuate when the VP was acting up?

Special X, with stock injectors.

A new member of the dead VP club. I had a lift pump go bad too, and then I talked to FASS and replaced the spring, I dead tested the lift pump before installing it and i would get about 12 psi on an old pressure gauge. I put all new fuel filters including the FASS inline filter. I installed this in the truck and the pressure read 15 psi. OK, maybe? Truck would run sputter when I gave it gas and accelerate, and then die. The pressure would go to 15, then as the truck died the fuel pressure drops to 0. I get the Pdone code but no other codes on an Innova scanner, no P1693 just the P0216. Yep, I thought my truck was running great too. Marcus, did your fuel pressure fluctuate or fall to zero on yours? It was a Blue Chip VP44 that I got about 90 K out of, and that's with 2 stroke oil for over 50k worth of driving.

Dieselfuture, Did your Denso alternator plug right in place of the Bosch connections? I have a 2001 so it should be similar, but the stock unit is a Bosch. My AC noise measured 0.025 VAC. Thanks

The alternator woes seem to be common these days. I have tried to get the check gages light to go off since I have owned the truck. I checked the Bosch alternator for AC noise and measured 0.022 VAC, with the 140 amp fuse out. I cleaned both engine grounds, and I have no PCM error codes. Both batteries tested good with 500+ CCA and 13.8 volts. I measured 13.8 volts with alternator charging, and battery voltage was 13.8-14 volts also. Based on what I have read elsewhere, the check gages light is from improper voltage level on the voltage regulator in the PCM. Is there another way to get rid of the check gauges light? Yes, I am electrically challenged, but apparently in good company here.

Lineman, I've always had the check gauges light on the dash, and voltages issue with my alternator rebuilt from NAPA. I've heard the voltage regulators are not good on the Bosch alternators. If you have a 99, you might have a nippendenso (ND) alternator. If not, try to get the ND alternator, you can buy these off of Amazon. If the voltage regulator is still acting up, Larry B's offers an external voltage regulator. www.fostertruck.com. Larry is very helpful. If all else fails, you could try rebuilding your alternator with a Geno's Garage kit. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gould-ark-denso/engine-rebuild-kits-2 Have you checked for any error codes? If you do not have a code reader, you can do the 3 ignition key turn trick. Just turn the ignition off and on three times in a row, and the odometer display will read error codes. You might have a something else going bad. I would recommend checking the ground for the alternator, should be under the passenger battery on the fender. Good luck.

I've had similar battery problems, I went and had them tested, one was bad the other good, so I replaced the bad one. I had the alternator tested, but the test wouldn't continue because it said there was a draw on the alternator with all accessories off. That's is likely a bad ground, where is the most common place for a bad ground on the alternator?

For 2001 2WD truck w/ riveted ball joints, do most folks get new control arms, or drill the old ones out? I bought Moog's although now I'm second guessing myself.

Happy Thanksgiving to all the helpful folks in this community and their families

Too good to be true, the truck was running good, not overheating. Last night, I saw a puddle, maybe an oil leak. I checked and after running, it is leaking a mixture of oil and antifreeze by the front case, above the oil pan. It's lost a quart, it runs fine, but the killer dowel pin is a possibility. 2001 shouldn't have a killer dowel pin? Has anyone heard of this, and is the likely source the water pump? The engine runs, so the engine seems okay. Thoughts? And thanks for the help.

I have 360k on my stock injectors, so it definitely sounds like time for a new set. I have a Blue Chip Special X IP which is claimed to have higher pressure, but could you not go higher than 50 HP? I have FASS DDRP lift pump, would the +75 HP (SAC-VP7X85SAC75) good for my setup? Thanks.

That was very helpful, thank you for taking the time to check this out. So between the two leads from the tank, I got MOhms between the 2 male connectors, DK BL/WH and BK/LT BL, tried leads twice. I have 11.39 volts from the PCM, and 24 ohms from the battery ground to the female connector on the PCM. So my harness to the tank is bad, apparently, because I got 220 ohms on an empty tank at the sender leads. Would Larry B's carry this harness?

The return line goes back to the tank, it should not be under that much pressure to see a rapid leak. Also, what is your fuel pressure to the VP44? I know folks have asked. You can check with the tapped banjo bolt off the fuel filter housing. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/vulcan-test-kit/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-part Do the codes keep coming back once you reset with your OBD II scanner? Also, the behavior stemming from the temp at 190 and the problem with it dying when shifting into drive seem ECM related, . Have you done checking of the ground connections? My 2001 has a habit of electrical issues unless my battery negative terminal is tight. Have you check the ASD relay, or replaced that yet? Good luck

No, there was no voltage at the BLK_LTBLU at the PDC wire connector with the ignition on. There was 0.22 volts without the ignition on. .

So there is no voltage at the PCM, even jumping to 2 leads from the harness did not make the gauge move. The harness was connected tight to the sending unit. The truck was taken to a garage, and they traced it to the PCM, So, I need a new PCM? Is there a way to program the PCM and the VIN. Any other suggestions? Thanks for any help, again.

The original had the pins from the unit in the middle 2, so I did the same as the original. I'll try the right 2 pins.. Socket to the wiring harness looked okay, the Molex type pins had locked into the inner harness The more forum posts I look at the more convinced I am to ditch the OEM in tank pump and go to a draw straw and remote draw location. Fuel pressure is at 15 psi on the gauge. Thank you for your help!

I installed my sending unit and fixed the broken quick disconnects with Larry B's kit. My fuel gauge still does not work. I did the cluster check, hold the odometer button down, and the gauge functions, etc. The resistance when the tank is empty was about 210-215 ohms; 20 ohms when the level is moved to full. I get these readings at the connector on top of the tank. Is there anything else, besides the harness being bad, that would make the fuel gauge not read? Thanks for any suggestions, the truck has 350k miles, and things are breaking down at an alarming rate.