mopartechnician

I think all the blocks have the cranksensor holes. There is a plate that blocks it off on the 01-02 pickups

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Your not suppose to run two stroke and an additive, something about it cancels each other out. I can't believe the amount of vehicles gelling up this year. I think somebody tried making a quick buck on running summer blend as long as possible beings the last couple of winters have been mild

POOR CONNECTIONS AT THE BATTERIES LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE OPEN FUSED B+ TO ECM OPEN GROUND CIRCUIT BATTERY + SHORTED TO OTHER CIRCUITS RETURN CIRCUIT SHORTED BATTERY + SHORTED TO GROUND INTERMITTENT CONDITION There are 6 grounds. Power goes from battery to TIPM to ECM

My 04 fsm says the same thing about compression. I couldn't find it in my 01 fsm though. Here is a video I recorded of blow-by on a 05 cummins. I can't remember what the readings are but I was thinking one cylinder was around 100-150psi. video-2012-01-02-20-21-23Converted.wmv

That's the one I was thinking about, our sled puller was having a hard time coming out of gear and it ended up being that shaft was letting the pedal come down before disengaging that clutch. The shaft had slid to the side.

This is a little different since this is out of the 06 service manual. I will dig out my 04 manual later and look. I would assume to unhook the connector and run a wire from the ground to the violet wire of the connector. The computer is looking for a closed circuit (ground) to know the door is open. DOOR AJAR SWITCH DESCRIPTION This vehicle has up to four door ajar switches, one for each door. Each switch is concealed within and integral to its respective door latch unit. The switches are momentary leaf contact-type units that are actuated by the mechanisms internal to the door latch. A short pigtail wire and connector on each door latch connects the door ajar switch to the vehicle electrical system through its respective door wire harness. The door ajar switches cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if inoperative or damaged, the door latch unit must be replaced. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/LATCH - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - REAR/LATCH - REMOVAL). OPERATION The door ajar switches are actuated by the mechanisms internal to the door latch. When a door is closed and properly latched, its door ajar switch is an open circuit. When a door is open or only partially latched, the door ajar switch is a closed circuit. The door ajar switches are hard wired in series between a body ground and the Electro- Mechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC). The EMIC reads the hard wired door ajar switch inputs through internal pull-ups, then uses these inputs to control many electronic functions and features of the vehicle. The EMIC also sends the proper switch status messages to other electronic modules over the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus. The door ajar switches can be diagnosed and tested using conventional diagnostic tools and methods. Refer to the appropriate wiring information. However, conventional diagnostic methods may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the EMIC, the CAN data bus, or the electronic message inputs or outputs used to convey door ajar switch status to other modules in the vehicle. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to diagnose the EMIC, the CAN data bus, and both the hard wired and electronic message inputs and outputs affected by the door ajar switch inputs requires the use of a diagnostic scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information

The clutch master cylinder is a clip that slides over the end of the rod, not an e clip. I cant remember what the brake is. I know there is other rods up that have clips on them

Im sure the auto pcm and manual pcm are different as far as cruise. If you think about it, the pcm controls the cruise and needs to know when to cancel the cruise. It has to watch the clutch pedal sensor, brake pedal, and switches.

There has to be wiring in where the door pivots, the wiring runs from the drivers side of the dash through the door jam and into the switches for windows, locks, and then goes to your door latch. This wiring for the latch detects when the door is open and turning the light on.

Wiggle the wiring in the drivers door jam and see if your lights come

Thats what my 06 fsm said. Ill look later at other ones.

Those are the tools needed. I have done a couple cams for short block repairs and its time consuming

Hardest part is pulling the cam, unless you have the tools or turn the engine on its top to pull it.

Min. compression is 350 and all cylinders should be within 20%. The last two pickups I did were all around 380

I know on the third gens the computer moves the gauge according to calculations. My thinking on why hey did this is too many people were watchjng their gauges and whining when something wasnt to their liking. Trust me i have dealt with these people. Ford does something wierd with their coolant, i cant remember right but there isnt an actual coolant temp sensor or something and the coolant temp us calculated. A guy i work with has a ford that was running crazy hot and the gauge ran normal. He asked and thats the explanation they gave him

Uh thats called snake oil.

I think 2nd gens are actual pressure and 3rd gen is a dummy gauge

No 3rd gens arent popped tested since they are electronic. They test spray pattern, spray volumn, return, and some other stuff. Gotta be careful on which injectors you buy, there are lots of junk rebuilds out there. The only ones i use are bosch rebuilds (rebuilt by bosch) or i am going to start pushing the big bang injectors since they are completly brand new

I cant get my video to upload off my phone. You can do injector return and compression test but the return wont be an indicator here. Compression is going to tell you the most. Injectors have to be sent off to test.

This is a scored cylinder from driving a truck too much with a sticking injector

Blow by is caused by worn piston rings or scored cylinders. There will be some blow by. Turn the oil fill cap upside down over the fill hole, if it blows off you got too much blow by. Why do you think the turbo was rebuilt?

Usually trac bar wear will cause you to chase the vehicle left and right

Ya stay away from edges, i have seen many cracked injectors because of them. The smarty by itself will be more than enough

You got something putting you into limp mode. Bands need to be adjusted but probably wont be the problem